Pearson 26 Running Rigging

[bblument]

Hello, all..

I've been lurking for a few weeks. Let's start with a confession... despite being somewhat OCD, and voraciously reading everything I can find online and in print, I still feel like I don't know anything and have no idea where to begin. I'll try and make this as brief as possible...

Had decrepit, water-logged Sunfish 8 years ago as intro to sailing. Loved it. Hull beyond repair. Sold it for parts.

Crewed a race on a 30' S2 last summer. Loved it. Was hooked. Immediately bought a 1972 Pearson 26 that had been on the hard for 5 years at a good price. Boat is 2 1/2 hours from my house. Needs work. Expected that. Am currently rebuilding the 8hp Sailmaster that came with it. Know how to do that. Know nothing about sailboats.

OK, that's the story. Now, the questions. The boat needs pretty much everything, although the hull is solid, and the rudder bearings seem to be OK (no slop or play). I'm not worried about cosmetics; I know how to polish the chalky gelcoat and get her cleaned up.

Here's what I don't know..

1. ALL of the running rigging needs replacing. From what I've read (and I've spent a LOT of time on Dan Pfeiffer's site), the main and jib halyards (currently a mix of rotted rope and wire) can be replaced with 3/8" Spectra Sta-Set. Many of the online rigging companies spec 5/16" for the halyards. Which is correct? If they both can be used, which is the better choice? How long for each? I've seen everything from 60' to 75' for lines led to the mast like my boat. They don't lead aft to the cockpit. Dan's site specs 60' for the main and 65' for the jib.

2. Mainsheet and Jibsheets .. 3/8", but what type line? Again, how long? Online info varies. Dan specs 65' for the main, and 35' for the jib (two necessary, yes?).

3. What terminations on all of these lines?

4. I know what the traveler is, and can get the appropriate 1/4" line for that. What about the other things I've read about (that I am clueless on)? Do I need a downhaul, outhaul, Cunningham, or topping lift? How do I tell if there are provisions for those lines on my boat?

We're headed up to the boat on Sat., May 4th. I'd be happy to take pictures or measure any specifics necessary to help any of you help me... just write back quickly so I can gather the data you need if you're willing.

I'm going to post another message about other electrically related questions, just for the sake of organization. Thank to anyone, in advance, willing to help me out with ANY tips or advice.

Best wishes,

Barry

 

[Miss Kelly]

Hey Barry -

First of all let me compliment you on your humility - a wonderful trait in the nautical world

I don't know much but I do know a few things that have worked for me re: P26. I owned one for six years - just sold her two months ago (am moving to a bigger boat, hopefully...)

So. I had a 1982 P26. My main and jib sheets were 100 cotton. OK that can't be right...so grain of salt there...BUT the length Dan recommends is probably pretty good. The main really does use a lot of line if you're sailing downwind and want to let the sail lean against the spreaders (bad form but sometimes it worked well). And if you get too much, you can always cut the excess...although I'd recommend cutting after the first whole season so you've had a chance to use it in differing conditions.

My halyards were also cotton/wire - you'll need enough to go from the deck to the top of the mast back down with some left over. Don't know the dimensions, sorry, but again, I would trust Dan on this one. The actual difference between a 3/8 and a 5/16 is pretty minimal...I'd let the pocketbook have some say here... Leave some left over...

My downhaul was a short length of rope that I tied a loop in and left it the appropriate length to hook under the cleat near the base of the mast. Easy to set and the boat was small enough I could wrestle it rather easily. (averaged sized woman who's average strength). Raise the sail, then hook the downhaul.

I had no cunningham, nor any place to rig one. Never missed it.

Outhaul was a short length (maybe 24") of narrow line - it seemed about the same size as the traveler...so go for 1/4" - narrow enough to fit through the little block that sat at the end of the boom. I tied a bowline in it from the grommet at the back end of the sail (I believe it's called the tack?), threaded it through the block and cleated it at the miniature cleat at the aft end of the boom. I usually set and tightened this while at the mooring if I was planning on sailing off the mooring in a few minutes. Other than that I tightened it while in irons out in the bay - it's hopeless to try to tighten this with any pressure on the sails.

Terminations on lines...I recommend two things, depending on your time and desire for perfection. 1) Whipping them with real whipping needle and thread...advantages - looks SO COOL - and they move through blocks easily as no "rope girth" had been added. Or...the rubber dip called Dip and Whip or something to that effect. Fast...easy...but adds width so be careful with not letting your lines get too fat. In an emergency when you're watching your lines fray before your eyes, electrical tape is OK - wrap several time and cut in the center. I also knotted all my lines at their bitter ends so nothing whipped out of a block and into the sea. Sometimes this actually made a difference.

Topping lift...Esmeralda had a wire that came from the top of the mast and terminated in a shackle...about the length of the mast...I had about 3' of rope tied to the end of this and with this rope I adjusted the height of the boom. I ran it through small holes that were in a housing attached to the end of the boom (but any block would do fine) two or three times and knotted it well (something creative that changed every year.) The only time I really used this was when the boat was a rest. When the main was up the main lifted the boom a few inches.

I really hope this helped you - the P26 is a GREAT boat to learn on, it is so stable and forgiving that you really can make mistakes and have it come out OK.

Best