Pass or fail?

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Ray Rothaug

Shaft coupling

One must be a contortionist to check and tighten the four coupling boltd. And, you cannot use a socket wrench due to the tight clearances. Two open end wrenches must be used, one behind the coupling and the other through the side access door, doing an eithth of a turn with each tightening.
 
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Nigel Wathen

Steering problems

Although I have voted for electronics, as the most common problem on my Hunter 43, steering has given me th worst problem. Sailing from East England to Holland across the North Sea in a force 7, which became Force 8, we hit a submerged object which jammed the rudder. Fortunately it was pointing forwards at the time. Had to turn the yacht round and head back to England, some 20 miles, using guile, luck and the wind vane rudder! All, as always, at 3am!! Made it back, then limped cautiously to marina entrance, dodging multiple moorings and bends in the muddy river estuary, to an outer pontoon. Solution: stop sailing for the season - well it was late October anyway!
 
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Paul Barry

Fresh Heads

In over 25 years of sailing I too have fallen victem to "The Smelly Head." Sea water contains a vast multitude of organizms that start to die and decompose as soon as they are trapped in the hose leading from your through-hull fitting and all the way to your holding tank thus adding to the fermatation process already taking place in the tank. The solution I came up with has solved the problem for me and several others that have followed my recomended cure. This Miricale Cure? FRESH WATER FLUSHING. I installed a 6 gallon tank so that instead of pumping my shower water overboard it now fills the tank and then the overflow goes overboard. The tank is plumbed to the inlet side of the head and is used to flush the head. Fresh, soapy water. Nice smell, lubricates the seals in the head and doesn't diminish your fresh water supply. I pour a few onces of swimming pool chlorine down the shower drain when I think of it and even after getting back on the boat after a week or so there is no odor and no more of that black, foul smelling flush water the first time you flush after not using the head for a while. Another hint. Three teen age daughters plus the wife use to mean unclogging the head on an almost daily basis. Cure? The meanist, nastiest macerating head I could find. This thing will eat shop rags and not even burp. No more clogged heads for me.
 
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Dan Chesnut

Most Troublesome Catalina Boat System

I find that the most troubled system on my Catalina 30 sail boat is the electrical system. From the batteries to the radio, I am continually finding new and different "problems". As a fellow slip "renter" told me the other day.... "all boats are fixer uppers, no matter how new..." I believe that the problem tends to be one of not bad design, but a design which could have been better. Most of the problems are very difficult to reach, (or even see) and I believe that if this was not the case, then the "problems" would not (or at least in most cases) have become a problem. For instance, the batteries are underneath the sink, and although somewhat accessable through the settee, are problematic. The wiring is often found to have been run in a roundabout, no sense manner.
 
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Ted Bergner

Charger/Inverter

I am furious that my charger inverter doesn't work, 6 sailings after I let out money for a 99 C320. I asked the dealer and he said that Catalina was sending warranty replacement slips with new boats for the charger (fly-back pro model) and that even though the dealer would be kind enough to ask for a replacement charger, fact is I'll probably be asking again in 2-3 months. So on the dealer's advice, I'll be buying an after market version that is more reliable. Sounds like for sure bad design to me. I'd really like to hear from others on this charger issue. If you have a sec, drop me a note at EBergner@aol.com Thanks!
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

There's a MUCH easier solution, Paul

All you had to do was tee the head sink drain into the toilet intake. To rinse all the sea water out of the system, close the seacock, fill the sink with fresh water, flush the toilet. Because the seacock is closed, the toilet pulls the water out of the sink. No need to add chlorine--which is highly corrosive and destructive to toilets and pumps--to your sump, either.
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

Now that you've tried everything else, Bill...

Read the articles "Boat Odor Isn't All in Your Head," Head Related Odors--Causes and Cures" and a few others in the HM forum library. There isn't an odor on a boat that can't be eliminated if you just know where to look and the right thing to do once you've found it.
 
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Bruce C. Stone

Forward, no, reverse!

I enjoyed a recent trip to the isthmus of Catalina Island off Southern California. When we left the mooring, I intended to motor ahead and then turn toward the main channel. Instead I found myself going backward, and will confess that for a few seconds I did not recognize what was happening. My mind said I was suppose to be going forward and my eyes said otherwise. I finally stopped short of ramming the boat behind me and the kind owner of that boat told me he had a similar problem once with the transmission linkage and offered to inspect mine for me. It turned out that the linkage had a brass outer sheath that slid into a bracket to hold the control cable in place. It had obviously broke due to corrosion even though it has never been exposed to the elements outside, (inside a covered pedistle which is always under a canvas cover). We were able to undo the cable and then manipulate it by hand until it could be repaired. Last week I replaced the Teleflex 3300 cables with the Teleflex "TfXtreme Performance" cables (for both throttle and transmission), and they are so much more rugged, that I doubt I will have a problem again. The outer cable cover is covered by stainless steel and not brass where they are secured to the engine, transmission or control mechanism. They are bigger in diameter and it was a little tough pulling them the various obsticles to run them through the boat, but it wasn't too bad. I did find a problem on the fiberglass pedestal. The hole cut out for the Morse single-handle control, was rough and very narrow. It was very difficult to pull out the control and its levers which move the cables. I had to sand down the inner edges in the cutout with a Dremmel tool and drum sander to allow the levers to have enough room to slide in and out (and only with the lever in the forward throttle and transmission position). I thought the workmanship a bit sloppy for my tastes. I do plan to keep a closer eye on these control cables and the steering hardware, etc. I learned a lot about how my boat is put together doing this job, and that things can go wrong that I had not anticipated. I am just disappointed at how slow my reaction was to recognize I was going backward when my mind told me I should be going forward. I think the cheaper brass sheathed cables are a risk and recommend that everyone take a look at their own installations. Of course this should be a part of normal maintanence and inspections, but I was not concerned since my boat is barely over two years old.
 
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carisea

response to leaks

I have a passage 42 1992 and I had an unexplained leak until I checked the aft deck lazarette. There are two drain holes to pass water before it tops the coaming under the cover. These were clogged and water was topping the coaming and dripping into the bottom of the boat. Since the 42 has a ribbed hull this water was not getting to the bilge but was collecting under the rear stateroom bed. If you have a configuration like this you may want to check this out. Carisea
 
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chris

stinking head

We have tried almost everything. The only thing that dampens that heady smell is the really thick "blue-stuff" that contains loads of chemicals. Even then, we cannot get rid of the "rotten egg" smell completely. And the first flush is enough to smell all the way up in the cockpit! My wife wants to replace the commode, but I don't think the problem is with the unit. I agree that it is from bacteria in the sea water, but since we don't have a shower and have limited fresh water aboard, we have just learned to live with it during the 3 weeks we spend sailing the Channel Islands every year. Also, if we use the head a lot and flush/overboard dishcarge a lot, the stink mellows out a bit. Must be because we are ejecting all that fermenting sea water. We've gone the flush/pump route at the pumpout station, but to no avail. Anyone have a cure besides the fresh water route?
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

I think you'll find the solutions to your problems

in several of the articles in the Head Mistress forum reference library-- "Intake Odor Cure," "Flush With Success," "Head Related Odors--Causes and Cures." In fact, I just posted the answer to your main problem--intake odor...scroll down in this thread to my reply to Paul. I also recommend you read "Boat Odor Isn't All In Your Head"...you might be surprised to discover that all you really need to do to make your boat smell MUCH better is clean--really CLEAN, not just throw in some bilge cleaner and bleach--your bilges, sumps and chain locker. Any or all of them can smell like a sewer if neglected. An odor-free boat requires a bit of effort, but most people--once they've gotten there--think it's worth it.
 
Jul 1, 1998
3,062
Hunter Legend 35 Poulsbo/Semiahmoo WA
WATER LEAKS !!!!

Far and away the worst "system" problem with my Hunter 35 was water leaks. In the rainy Pacific Northwest this is not something one wants to have in a boat. Every port, every skylight, chain locker, and numerous other places leaked every time it rained. When we circumnavigated Vancouver Island we had to duct tape (the stuff doesn't stick to a wet surface!) plastic grocery store bags over the ports to try and keep the water out. Ever tried sailing with a blue plastic tarp over the coach roof? Doesn't look very yachty. Neither the Seattle dealer Sailboats Northwest (no longer in business) nor the manufacturer was helpful in resolving the problem and it took me several years to plug them up. After several years of figuring out how the boat was put together and learning about sealants, and with help from one manufacturers rep(this was instrumental), I was finally able to solve the problem once and for all. I can see why experienced boaters say not to buy a "liner boat" because it's really hard to find where the leaks are coming from, among other things. Looking back at the design, I think the manufacturer should have designed the component installations with an eye toward maintenance. Frankly, the people at Hunter didn't understand or comprehend how sealants work and they built thousands of boats with built-in design problems. For the past several years my boat has been leak-free, and no thanks to Hunter, and it's finally really enjoyable, and this part is thanks to Hunter.
 
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the Pirate of Sha-lin

Anything electric!

You might get a laugh. Since I know absolutely nothing about anything electrical, I'm not too careful about it. If something goes bad, I just don't use it, until I find someone to tell me what is wrong, what parts I need, and trade a few beers to have the part(s) installed. That job has usually fallen to my first mate. Thanfully, by profession, he is an electronics tech. 2 years ago, my electrical systems started failing one by one. Since I could start my engine, was never out of sight of land, never sailed at night, and knew where all of the shallows are in the well-marked Delaware River, I ignored them. That is until the last racing series finished after dark. "Turn on your lights!" someone said. I said "I can't, I have no electric working" He ran below to switch all of the switches, found only the bilge pump working, and pulled out a flashlight. We finished the race with a flashlight shining on the mainsail. I will probably never live it down. Later my 1st mate went through it and found the the entire electric panel was corroded, and even the bilge pump shouldn't have worked. He went through the whole boat, and found that nothing much worked, or if it did it shouldn't have, and rewired the entire boat. My next 1st mate will be a painter.
 
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Les Blackwell

Thanks for your responses

When I first suggested a version of this question to Gary Wyngarden, I was primarily interested in what navigation electronics fail most boaters. As I teach for several different organization, I have been told to only teach piloting and not to use the GPS. That was reserved for an advance class. I wondered about this and was told that too many electronics fail and that the students would have to rely on charts. While I can appreciate knowing how to plot a course, I also felt that knowing how to use a GPS and a VHF radio (rather than using horn signals which I haven't heard in years) was important. So I decided to see how many GPS broke down. Neither Garman or Melgellan would reveal those statistics, so I asked Phil and Gary what they thought. I have been fasicinated by all of your responses and can say, I have them too. The head goes to the head of the class, but electrical seems right up there. I wonder if boat builders are watching--they ought too. But most interesting to me is the lack of people who say there electronics fail them. Of all my systems, these continue to work for me all the time. I foresee a time when the GPS will be built into our cars and boats as a given. I think the electronics of today are outstanding--I can "see" my way into my own slip on the GPS. That isn't to say that I use it all the time. I still like to go out and sail just for the fun of it and because we have so many islands around here, I have no need for acurate pinpoint navigation. But it is nice to know that I can look at my little handheld GPS and see how long it will take me to get home. "Hello dear, you can put the roast on now." This little quiz has helped me suggest changes in course material. Let's see if anyone pays attention. Thanks all for your responces. Les Trumpeter, H380 Bellingham
 
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Artemis

A leak Aswell

I have crossed a few oceans on our Hunetr 376 and although she sails well we have had a few issues. During a fairly rough stretch across the Timor sea the Rubber guard surrounding the yacht fell off and became entangled with the prop which turning at the time. it was a fairly major problem recovering form that one. One evening we were hit by a squall that totally demolished the bimini poles and all. There are a few other bits and pieces that need to be reviewed for strength but our main problem is a relentless drip into the bilge. I have a slow leak which I just can't solve, it is not coming from any of the through hull sea cocks or internal hoses. I appears to coming from the rear of the keel although this is crack free and totally sealed underneath. any suggestions would be appretiated.
 
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SailboatOwners.com

Final results

Final results for the Quick Quiz ending 4/28/2002: The most troublesome systems on my boat are: 36% Electronics 34% Marine sanitation 19% Engine 11% Rigging
 
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barry newman

head odors eliminated

head odors like all odors can be nasty and can come from bacteria (mold,etc) or from the head itself with salt water turning into gray water or just general odors. any of these can be eliminated with the use of a head buster from Quantum pure aire. Will eliminate not only the odor but the source of the odor. also will kill any mold that grows in you shower stall as well. also eliminates bad bacteria around the john.we agree that you must work to keep the boat clean.
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Head Odor eliminated, continued.

Barry: Have you noticed any difference w/mold & mildew? Have you noticed any degradation with rubber etc.? Are you running the unit when the you are on the boat? How long do you run it each day?
 
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barry newman

your questions answered

have unit for one year and no degrigation of any kind.only would have effect on natural rubber.only chemical made rubber on boats and cars. no bad effect at all. yes i run when on boat. these are low leval ozone and safe to be around. run whenever mold or odor needs to be eliminated have eliminated all my odor and killed the mold as long as unit runs even part time mold has not come back. see practical sailor articles.
 
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