Has anyone painted the exterior wood instead of varnishing ? Kind of tired of refinishing brightwork and think boat paint would last longer. Uv rays are deadly. What results have you got painting instead of varnishing, polyurethane etc.
painting the exterior wood
- Thread starter javelin
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My traveler is mounted on two pieces of teak that are a pain to refinish. I applied a fairing compound to the teak to fill in the grain. Then sanded nice and smooth and painted. Used Interlux Brightside paint. Not sure how it will hold up but it looks nice.
J,
Don't paint it, you will be disappointed. Because I say "life is too short to do your own teak", I recently changed all the deck teak to a synthetic PVC using their deck board and facia. The product is called "Sensibuilt".
This is but an alternative. Here are some pictures of the product pal.
CR
Don't paint it, you will be disappointed. Because I say "life is too short to do your own teak", I recently changed all the deck teak to a synthetic PVC using their deck board and facia. The product is called "Sensibuilt".
This is but an alternative. Here are some pictures of the product pal.
CR
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Looks good. My teak was 45 years old and rotten/worn out. Didn't want to drop $700 in materials and have to keep up brightwork so I went with Azek. The synthetic is a lot easier to work too.
Pics are from before I painted the hull.
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CR, looking pretty good..I have been slowly replacing my teak with white PVC board. That wood grain, if it looks like wood, might be a good alternative too.
Ron, got my attention as I am in the middle of the annual varnishing chore as we speak and it grows wearisome as the years go past.
I've been using Cetol after I sanded down the woodwork last time. After the varnish is gone, U can stain it with Cetol & its remarkably uniform & has a beautiful rich glow, without the peeling varnish layer. Not sure how long it will last, but mine is on its second season & still looks good. I just think its sad to paint over a potentially georgous wood like teak. We've chopped down half the rainforest for this stuff, we should at least let it show off its beauty, not hide under paint - which looks even worse when it peels.
Yikes?
ron.
the 'teak' looks fine, more than fine actually, but what happened to the lower shrouds? tell me how you keep the stick up with only uppers.
ron.
the 'teak' looks fine, more than fine actually, but what happened to the lower shrouds? tell me how you keep the stick up with only uppers.
Joe, Shipwreck & JR,
I didn't attach the lowers when the pics were taken. I took the chainplates off and cleaned them. one had to be replaced also. I found a DOW Corning construction chaulk called 795. This stays pliable and I used it for bedding all top deck fittings.
Remember when adding chaulk, tighten it down to 3/32"-1/8" thick, and leave it set up for 3 days. Then come back and tighten the fitting. Instead of squeezing all the freshly applied chaulk out, you now have a nice thick gasket-type seal.
I only use 5200 usually below waterline areas in compression where I never, never, never have to do maintenance. 5200 overtime on deck will harden and eventually have crack lines. This should not be used for bedding chainplates or if periodic maintenance needs to be done. It's a bitch to apply as it seems to migrate, first on your hands then arms etc. It's a bitch to remove also.
JR, I never liked the look of Cetol, as I feel it kills the look of freshly prepped wood for varnishing. But from folks I've talked to over the years, it does hold up longer. Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder pal, and we know that real wood needs to be re-done from time to time. So whatever you use is a good thing.
CR
I didn't attach the lowers when the pics were taken. I took the chainplates off and cleaned them. one had to be replaced also. I found a DOW Corning construction chaulk called 795. This stays pliable and I used it for bedding all top deck fittings.
Remember when adding chaulk, tighten it down to 3/32"-1/8" thick, and leave it set up for 3 days. Then come back and tighten the fitting. Instead of squeezing all the freshly applied chaulk out, you now have a nice thick gasket-type seal.
I only use 5200 usually below waterline areas in compression where I never, never, never have to do maintenance. 5200 overtime on deck will harden and eventually have crack lines. This should not be used for bedding chainplates or if periodic maintenance needs to be done. It's a bitch to apply as it seems to migrate, first on your hands then arms etc. It's a bitch to remove also.
JR, I never liked the look of Cetol, as I feel it kills the look of freshly prepped wood for varnishing. But from folks I've talked to over the years, it does hold up longer. Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder pal, and we know that real wood needs to be re-done from time to time. So whatever you use is a good thing.
CR
Ron, I agree about the 5200 - its nasty stuff to get off of your hands, ruins whatever U don't want it to touch, & its downright runny on anything but a horizontal surface when it warms up in summer heat before it sets. I think I'll try the butyl tape method next time I have to rebed something on deck. As for teak finishing, I use the semi transparent cetol that still allows the wood grain to shine through, but the teak must be completely sanded to bare wood for a good uniform look.
wood
JR,
I tried butyl gasketing in some areas and it worked fine. I was going to use it for the chainplates but decided against it. The sheet of rubber I have is 1/4" thick that's why I used the chaulk. Maybe the next time around, I will try it on the lowers first and see how that goes.
In an earlier thread on wood refinishing, I suggested a product after hearing people were sanding their wood down & bleaching it before varnishing. I wrote that it's not wise to sand down and take away your wood.
What I have been using for years, is called Snappy Teak. It's a 2-part stripper that works better than other products I've tried. Before any sanding, apply #1 using sponge brushes & a small container to work from . It will look like pudding after a few minutes. Wipe or hose it off and re-apply. It will remove all the varnish & any mildew/staining. And, no sanding.
Part 2 is the the kicker, as it will instantly brighten your wood. This is the acid coat so gloves need to be worn. Never allow the coats to dry on your fiberglass but a water rinse neutralizes it. It may sound a little messy but you'll get the hang of it quickly.
Now here's the great part. When dry, your teak will look like sandlewood. The Snappy Teak raises the soft hairs of the wood, and if your wood is not weather-worn a fine 120 grit is usually sufficient. Remember not to sand hard as the soft wood is still soft and you don't wanna make grooves. Your not removing much wood at all, and not working hard. As I said this is the best I've found and have been using it for about 15 yrs.
Check your local marine supply houses, it isn't in alot of waste marine type stores. I guarantee once you use this, its all you will use after.
CR
JR,
I tried butyl gasketing in some areas and it worked fine. I was going to use it for the chainplates but decided against it. The sheet of rubber I have is 1/4" thick that's why I used the chaulk. Maybe the next time around, I will try it on the lowers first and see how that goes.
In an earlier thread on wood refinishing, I suggested a product after hearing people were sanding their wood down & bleaching it before varnishing. I wrote that it's not wise to sand down and take away your wood.
What I have been using for years, is called Snappy Teak. It's a 2-part stripper that works better than other products I've tried. Before any sanding, apply #1 using sponge brushes & a small container to work from . It will look like pudding after a few minutes. Wipe or hose it off and re-apply. It will remove all the varnish & any mildew/staining. And, no sanding.
Part 2 is the the kicker, as it will instantly brighten your wood. This is the acid coat so gloves need to be worn. Never allow the coats to dry on your fiberglass but a water rinse neutralizes it. It may sound a little messy but you'll get the hang of it quickly.
Now here's the great part. When dry, your teak will look like sandlewood. The Snappy Teak raises the soft hairs of the wood, and if your wood is not weather-worn a fine 120 grit is usually sufficient. Remember not to sand hard as the soft wood is still soft and you don't wanna make grooves. Your not removing much wood at all, and not working hard. As I said this is the best I've found and have been using it for about 15 yrs.
Check your local marine supply houses, it isn't in alot of waste marine type stores. I guarantee once you use this, its all you will use after.
CR
Ron, I'd like to try that Snappy Teak stuff - guess I haven't seen it before because it isn't sold @ W marine. Guess I'm a lil ol school. I just can't avoid buying boats that need a major teak refinishing job. Must be the masocist in me! I do know that U have to use bleach or some type of chemical teak brightener to kill the mold / fungus that is causing teak to turn grey & black. I'll look around for the snappy teak, otherwise the sanding & cetol has always worked for me. Not sure if I'm gonna apply a varnish coat this time. My last boat is a few slips down from me & the teak w cetol still looks good after 2 years. Even though the bastard that bought it has wrecked damn near everything else on my old beautiful S 2! Wish I could repossess it. I've heard selling a boat is kinda like a divorce - can't live with'em or without 'em!
120 Grit
JR,
Thanks for the feedback. About the idiot with your ol boat, invite him "OUT" sailing with you. Of course you never said anything about a "RETURN" trip.........get it?
Bill,
Depending on the condition of your wood different grit sandpaper may have to be used. If using Snappy Teak, Don't sand hard as the soft wood will stick up like fine hair & will be SOFT from the stripping job.
CR
JR,
Thanks for the feedback. About the idiot with your ol boat, invite him "OUT" sailing with you. Of course you never said anything about a "RETURN" trip.........get it?
Bill,
Depending on the condition of your wood different grit sandpaper may have to be used. If using Snappy Teak, Don't sand hard as the soft wood will stick up like fine hair & will be SOFT from the stripping job.
CR
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