painted teak

[Sastevenson]

I am beginning the process next weekend. My local lumber yard carries the azek in fawn color and it's 3.47/Lin foot. My experience with azek in the past is that it is awesome. I helped my dad build a deck out of it a few years ago and we tried everything to destroy a small piece of this stuff. We tried beating it up with a hammer and even held a torch on it for several minutes and it still remained brand new looking. Can't wait to see how it looks. I'll put up pictures when I'm done. Replacing all teak pieces.

Scott

 

[seabrooksailor]

I am beginning the process next weekend. My local lumber yard carries the azek in fawn color and it's 3.47/Lin foot. My experience with azek in the past is that it is awesome. I helped my dad build a deck out of it a few years ago and we tried everything to destroy a small piece of this stuff. We tried beating it up with a hammer and even held a torch on it for several minutes and it still remained brand new looking. Can't wait to see how it looks. I'll put up pictures when I'm done. Replacing all teak pieces.

Scott

I would love to see pics of that, I have not had a chance to work on mine yet because of work and I would love to see the finished product as i am possibly going to use azek as well

 

[Sastevenson]

I will defiantly post some. Quick thought. I have heard some conversation about the screw plugs vs just having the screw visible. I was thinking about the possibility of using wood screws and screwing up from under inside the cabin. I have 1" holes in the cabin where you have access to the nut that holds on the existing rail. My thought was to just screw a good stainless screw and washer up from there and go about 3/4 of the way up into the hand rail. That would eliminate the need for plugs.

Thoughts?

Scott

 

[seabrooksailor]

I will defiantly post some. Quick thought. I have heard some conversation about the screw plugs vs just having the screw visible. I was thinking about the possibility of using wood screws and screwing up from under inside the cabin. I have 1" holes in the cabin where you have access to the nut that holds on the existing rail. My thought was to just screw a good stainless screw and washer up from there and go about 3/4 of the way up into the hand rail. That would eliminate the need for plugs.

Thoughts?

Scott

Although I'm not 100% sure why, screwing into the wood from the bottom and trusting that it will hold would scare the %$&* outta me. I think fighting with the traditional mounting hardware and plugs would be worth the headache for the peace of mind. But who knows it might work great, I've been wrong once or twice

 

[Joe11688]

I will defiantly post some. Quick thought. I have heard some conversation about the screw plugs vs just having the screw visible. I was thinking about the possibility of using wood screws and screwing up from under inside the cabin. I have 1" holes in the cabin where you have access to the nut that holds on the existing rail. My thought was to just screw a good stainless screw and washer up from there and go about 3/4 of the way up into the hand rail. That would eliminate the need for plugs.

Thoughts?

Scott

I wouldn't do that Scott. One of the guys on the forum, "Merilinuxo" recently replied to a thread and showed some pictures of his Morgan Sloop with hand rails that he made from Azek.
http://www.azek.com/azek-deck/colors/ What he did was make his own bungs out of Azek with a bung cutter and he used silicone to adhere them in. Check out Merlin's picture album. http://forums.oday.sailboatowners.com/member.php?u=91428

 

[Sastevenson]

Not to go against the grain but I did speak with my go to sailor for advice who did this on my same boat and he said it held fine. I haven't decided what I'm going to do just yet. Just a thought.

Scott

 

[Sastevenson]

All finished with my teak handrail replacement. Everything went great and I highly recommend this azek stuff. It cut easily, sanded great, and was a breeze with the router. I decided not to do the bungs because I wanted to be able to take it on and off easily in the future because I am probably going to paint the top this winter.

 

[Joe11688]

That came out great. You really don't need bungs. A friend of mine used cup washers under the bolt heads to secure his hand rails.

 

[Brian S]

That looks very, very nice!

I probably would have used oval head screws with countersunk washers myself. In my opinion, it gives a more finished look if you're going to have fastener heads proud of the surface.

My hatch board retainers were set with countersunk oval head washers. It looked ok, but I think I'll put some countersunk washers on when I reinstall. Wish I could do the same on my hatch sliders, but those fasteners go in on the angled side, so they'll have to be countersunk and bunged.

Brian

 

[Sastevenson]

There is a method to my madness...I was unable to find 2 3/4" stainless screws in the 10-24 size. Therefore, if I had used countersunk screws they would have protruded too far into the cabin and I wouldn't have been able to use the plugs that I use. I am going t keep my eye out. On everything except the handrails I countersunk the screws like you said.

 

[seabrooksailor]

All finished with my teak handrail replacement. Everything went great and I highly recommend this azek stuff. It cut easily, sanded great, and was a breeze with the router. I decided not to do the bungs because I wanted to be able to take it on and off easily in the future because I am probably going to paint the top this winter.

<img src="http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63063"/>

<img src="http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63064"/>

<img src="http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63065"/>

That does look quite nice, now that I see how the toe rails look when they are not painted white I just have to finish mine.

 

[Merlin Clark]

Looks great!