I am in the process of replacing the chainplates on my P303. One broke, taking down the rig, and the other has a large crack between the second and third bulkhead bolt holes. I know I leaving myself wide open here, but I would like any comments, constructive if possible, on the design and to see if there is any interest from other P303 owners that might like to replace there own chainplates. The advantages to this design are no deck modifications other than increasing the slot width, maintains the rig geometry (except for moving the cap shroud inboard 1/2"), is stronger than the original (1/4" bar instead of 3/16" bar) and no hidden welds. I uploaded a drawing of my redesigned chainplate to the files section in the Yahoo Pearson group or email me and I can forward a copy. Paul P303, #224
P303 Chainplate
- Thread starter PaulM
- Start date
- Status
I am in the process of replacing the chainplates on my P303. One broke, taking down the rig, and the other has a large crack between the second and third bulkhead bolt holes. I know I leaving myself wide open here, but I would like any comments, constructive if possible, on the design and to see if there is any interest from other P303 owners that might like to replace there own chainplates. The advantages to this design are no deck modifications other than increasing the slot width, maintains the rig geometry (except for moving the cap shroud inboard 1/2"), is stronger than the original (1/4" bar instead of 3/16" bar) and no hidden welds. I uploaded a drawing of my redesigned chainplate to the files section in the Yahoo Pearson group or email me and I can forward a copy. Paul P303, #224
I am in the process of replacing the chainplates on my P303. One broke, taking down the rig, and the other has a large crack between the second and third bulkhead bolt holes. I know I leaving myself wide open here, but I would like any comments, constructive if possible, on the design and to see if there is any interest from other P303 owners that might like to replace there own chainplates. The advantages to this design are no deck modifications other than increasing the slot width, maintains the rig geometry (except for moving the cap shroud inboard 1/2"), is stronger than the original (1/4" bar instead of 3/16" bar) and no hidden welds. I uploaded a drawing of my redesigned chainplate to the files section in the Yahoo Pearson group or email me and I can forward a copy. Paul P303, #224
I am in the process of replacing the chainplates on my P303. One broke, taking down the rig, and the other has a large crack between the second and third bulkhead bolt holes. I know I leaving myself wide open here, but I would like any comments, constructive if possible, on the design and to see if there is any interest from other P303 owners that might like to replace there own chainplates. The advantages to this design are no deck modifications other than increasing the slot width, maintains the rig geometry (except for moving the cap shroud inboard 1/2"), is stronger than the original (1/4" bar instead of 3/16" bar) and no hidden welds. I uploaded a drawing of my redesigned chainplate to the files section in the Yahoo Pearson group or email me and I can forward a copy. Paul P303, #224
always looking
I have hull #121. Everything is good to go... I think. Can you post a photo of new design or design failure? Rich
I have hull #121. Everything is good to go... I think. Can you post a photo of new design or design failure? Rich
always looking
I have hull #121. Everything is good to go... I think. Can you post a photo of new design or design failure? Rich
I have hull #121. Everything is good to go... I think. Can you post a photo of new design or design failure? Rich
always looking
I have hull #121. Everything is good to go... I think. Can you post a photo of new design or design failure? Rich
I have hull #121. Everything is good to go... I think. Can you post a photo of new design or design failure? Rich
always looking
I have hull #121. Everything is good to go... I think. Can you post a photo of new design or design failure? Rich
I have hull #121. Everything is good to go... I think. Can you post a photo of new design or design failure? Rich
Wow...
I guess I need to give mine the once over! There is no way one could have seen that one coming... unless you took the chain plate right out! You have me worried, Rich #121
I guess I need to give mine the once over! There is no way one could have seen that one coming... unless you took the chain plate right out! You have me worried, Rich #121
P303 Chainplate 3
Unfortunatly the rig did come down, but before I purchased the boat. One thing that I sure of is that the broken chainplate was getting wet. Here is the link to the Yahoo groups. There is also a Sailnet Pearson forum. Another link to Dan Pfeiffer's excellent Pearson website. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pearson_sailboats/ http://list.sailnet.net/read/?forum=pearson http://pearsoninfo.net/index.cfm
Unfortunatly the rig did come down, but before I purchased the boat. One thing that I sure of is that the broken chainplate was getting wet. Here is the link to the Yahoo groups. There is also a Sailnet Pearson forum. Another link to Dan Pfeiffer's excellent Pearson website. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pearson_sailboats/ http://list.sailnet.net/read/?forum=pearson http://pearsoninfo.net/index.cfm
Why the weld
I also have a 303. I have looked long and hard at my chainplates. We had major leaks through the hull at the chainplates on the boat we bought, so I did a lot of looking. The 90-degree turn with a weld sure seemed problematic. Now I know it is! I could not think of any reason not to use a single piece of flat bar (no welding), and place the holes for the rigging fore and aft. (As was done on my previous little boat, which did not leak.) Then use a cover plate to seal the penetration through the hull. I am not sure what you are accomplishing by welding the 2x2 tab on to the flat bar. I don't see how such a minor offset (by being fore and aft, rather than in and out) could affect the rigging. However your idea of the tab up top does allow examination of the welding, if such a configuration really is needed. Eliminating the weld seems smart and allowing the cover plate to rest on the deck rather than forcing the deck to match the welded plate all seemed a good idea to me. But that implied I think that I am smarter than Bill Shaw. We decided to reinstall the existing rather than proceed down that path. I'm not sure, especially after reading about your catastrophe. Thanks, Thom
I also have a 303. I have looked long and hard at my chainplates. We had major leaks through the hull at the chainplates on the boat we bought, so I did a lot of looking. The 90-degree turn with a weld sure seemed problematic. Now I know it is! I could not think of any reason not to use a single piece of flat bar (no welding), and place the holes for the rigging fore and aft. (As was done on my previous little boat, which did not leak.) Then use a cover plate to seal the penetration through the hull. I am not sure what you are accomplishing by welding the 2x2 tab on to the flat bar. I don't see how such a minor offset (by being fore and aft, rather than in and out) could affect the rigging. However your idea of the tab up top does allow examination of the welding, if such a configuration really is needed. Eliminating the weld seems smart and allowing the cover plate to rest on the deck rather than forcing the deck to match the welded plate all seemed a good idea to me. But that implied I think that I am smarter than Bill Shaw. We decided to reinstall the existing rather than proceed down that path. I'm not sure, especially after reading about your catastrophe. Thanks, Thom
Chainplate Weld
Thom, Thanks for the input. You are probably correct in that the offset of fore & aft are minor and getting rid of the weld would be a plus. You are the second to suggest eliminating the weld. I originally chose to weld the tab for two reasons. One I wanted to maintain the rig geometry as close the original as I could and welding a tang for the lower shroud close to the deck plate keeps the turning forces to a minimum. To place the shrouds fore & aft I think I would need to use wider bar stock to space the holes for enough clearance to prevent interference of the turnbuckles. Paul
Thom, Thanks for the input. You are probably correct in that the offset of fore & aft are minor and getting rid of the weld would be a plus. You are the second to suggest eliminating the weld. I originally chose to weld the tab for two reasons. One I wanted to maintain the rig geometry as close the original as I could and welding a tang for the lower shroud close to the deck plate keeps the turning forces to a minimum. To place the shrouds fore & aft I think I would need to use wider bar stock to space the holes for enough clearance to prevent interference of the turnbuckles. Paul
Paul
What damage was done when the rig came down? Did the mast bend/brake? As you know it is keel stepped... did it do damage down below if it worked its way out of that plate? You have a new spar? Thanks for the photos! Rich
What damage was done when the rig came down? Did the mast bend/brake? As you know it is keel stepped... did it do damage down below if it worked its way out of that plate? You have a new spar? Thanks for the photos! Rich
Mast
The mast snapped just above the goose neck and chainplate screws pulled a 9" hole in the port deck. I'm still in the process of putting the rigging back together. Paul
The mast snapped just above the goose neck and chainplate screws pulled a 9" hole in the port deck. I'm still in the process of putting the rigging back together. Paul
Paul...
SVCarolena is looking for some standing rigging lengths... maybe you could help with the lengths as it sounds like you are in the middle of things. Rich
SVCarolena is looking for some standing rigging lengths... maybe you could help with the lengths as it sounds like you are in the middle of things. Rich
Standing Rigging
Sure, not a problem. I'll recheck the rigging that I have and let you know the lengths. Paul
Sure, not a problem. I'll recheck the rigging that I have and let you know the lengths. Paul
Rigging Lengths for P303
Hi All, I finally got to the point of measuring the standing rigging. Here are the dimensions. All measurements are from the top of the stemball to the threaded end of the swaged piece of the navtec turnbuckle. Except for the forestay. The forestay was measured using the lengths of the roller furler foils. Forestay - 1/4" 316 wire - 39' (5 x 7" foil sections, 2' first section and 2' top section). Will order a 40' length. Back Stay - 1/4" 316 wire - 42'. Will order a 43' length. Cap Shroud - 1/4" 316 wire - 40'. Will order a 41' length. Lower Shrouds – 9/32" 316 wire – 21.5'. Will order a 22.5' length. Please let me know if any of this doesn’t sound right. Thanks Paul P303, #224
Hi All, I finally got to the point of measuring the standing rigging. Here are the dimensions. All measurements are from the top of the stemball to the threaded end of the swaged piece of the navtec turnbuckle. Except for the forestay. The forestay was measured using the lengths of the roller furler foils. Forestay - 1/4" 316 wire - 39' (5 x 7" foil sections, 2' first section and 2' top section). Will order a 40' length. Back Stay - 1/4" 316 wire - 42'. Will order a 43' length. Cap Shroud - 1/4" 316 wire - 40'. Will order a 41' length. Lower Shrouds – 9/32" 316 wire – 21.5'. Will order a 22.5' length. Please let me know if any of this doesn’t sound right. Thanks Paul P303, #224
Thanks for the Specs
Thanks, Paul - I'm about to order all the rigging wire and fittings for my summer project. How goes the chainplate replacement? Did you finalize a design? Nathan SV Carolena
Thanks, Paul - I'm about to order all the rigging wire and fittings for my summer project. How goes the chainplate replacement? Did you finalize a design? Nathan SV Carolena
- Status