P-31 Stanchions

[gundaddy]

My boat: 1989 Pearson 31. Stanchions: 24”, double lifeline, single bail oriented inboard from the stanchion base.

My stanchions are in need of re-bedding, and one is obviously bent. In trying to measure the angle of the stanchions to the deck, I got anywhere from 0° to 5° to 10° to something that looks a bit like a banana. The fasteners of the forward stanchions appear to be inaccessible from the V-berth. There is a cabin light in the vicinity, but it does not look practical to try to manipulate the fasteners through the small opening in the liner provided for the light.

A few questions:

1) Has anyone successfully removed/replaced/re-bedded the forward-most stanchions on the P-31? If so, are there pictures of the surgery performed on the liner? Any ideas for a teak cover for the opening to finish it off?

2) Were all of the original stanchions identical in angle? That is, were they all 0°, and most of mine were accidentally bent over the years to varying angles? Or were they installed with various angles to compensate for curvature of the side decks?

3) Has anyone successfully un-bent a stanchion? If I can’t bend it myself is it realistic to think that a machine shop may be able to? Other options for unbending?

All of my stanchions look pretty reasonable except for the banana-like one, so I’d really hate to replace them all.

Thanks in advance!
=P

 

[ddoles]

Regarding the forward stanchions, you are correct, there is no way to access the bolts from the bottom. The holes for the lights are just too small. On my P31-2 I cut larger holes through the triangular shaped plastic liner where the lights are mounted. I made the cut with a Dremel tool and it was pretty easy. With this larger hole, the stanchion bolts are accessable. To cover the hole I used 1/4" teak, making a triangular shaped cover that I varnished and screwed in place. (Be sure to leave enough edge room to mount the teak). I cut a small hole in the teak to remount the light back where it was. When finished it looks very nice and gives you access for the next time you need to get at the stanchions.

When I rebedded my stanchions, I also replaced them all. Looking closely I found cracks on several where the base is welded to the stanchion post. Rather than take chances with the rest, I replaced them all. I suggest you inspect the welds carefully for cracks. That is a high stress point and, if orginal, the stanchions are now 25 years old and probably due. If you want to unbend them, this is possible. I had the yard do this once for one of my new stanchions that they bent it during haul out.

When you do the rebedding you'll want to remove as much balsa core as you can and epoxy and redrill the holes. This was not done when new and can lead to water intrusion into the core, causing core rot and delamination.

Hope this helps.

Dave

 

[gundaddy]

Dave,
That helps a lot. I was wondering if I should include the light in the cut-out, or if I could leave the original liner under the light, and just cut out most of the remainder of the triangular piece. I guess there's no sense in cutting too far up into the apex/vertex of the triangle, as it's too narrow for your hand? Also, leaving the tip of the triangle and some strategically placed tabs should allow for easier fastening of the filler/trim piece.

Got any slightly used stanchions you'd like to get rid of?

 

[ddoles]

Sorry, the stanchions are long gone into the dumpster. When you cut the liner, I suppose you could leave the light and the hole as is. It just reduces the size of the access hole. As you mention the triangle narrows as you go forward, so its a question of how you can get the access hole big enough. Keep in mind you'll be sticking your arm in there, working a wrench and trying to see what you're doing. A bigger hole makes all this easier. You will want to sketch it out first and see if its big enough. I made cardboard templates of the triangular liner section with access hole and teak cover before cutting to make sure it all was going to work.

 

[gundaddy]

Your method sounds like the way to go. I'll admit I'm a Dremel newbie. Most of my experience is with the cutoff wheel. I'm guessing the bit for this job is probably something like the 1/8" router bit?

 

[ddoles]

I used a cutting bit. Looking on the website, I believe it was the 561, or something similar.

 

[gundaddy]

Thanks very much!

 

[gundaddy]

Where did you get your stanchions? Did you get removable bases or one piece? Are you happy with them?

 

[ddoles]

I bought them from a local yard/marine supply store in NJ (Lockwood Boatworks). I don't recall the brand. They are the two piece variety with a base and separate post that fits into it and they worked out very well.

 

[gundaddy]

Ended up getting an exact replacement stanchion from Mike at whitewatermarineinc.com. He responded quickly via email to my inquiry, knew exactly what I needed, and told me how long it would take to fabricate. He was also able to supply a perfectly matched, pre-drilled backing plate. The stanchion arrived ahead of schedule, and looks awesome. I'll go back for any other stainless needs I have.

 

[Tom Tierney]

I just bought a 1987 31-2. Hull #3. I got it for 5k. Distress sale. It was a northern boat. In CT. The previous owner, bought it a year ago for 12k and sailed it down to Daytona Beach. Its going to be my home.
Anyway, it has 2 de-lam spots around 2 stantions (typical grommet issue). 10 sq ft total due to water migration. The only probems I found. I've done glass work before on boats but I want a professional finish. Yet, I don't want to haul it out. Is there such a thing as mobile repair for this kind of thing? Or should I bite the bullet and grab the dremel?