outboard hoisting

[chuckwayne]

It appears you've only been participating here for a few years so you have no idea how many garhaurer fans we have on this forum, active members and lurkers. I'm sorry you had a negative experience. My experience with them covers the last 25 years and I can say that besides the excellent quality and pricing, they have always treated me right. No problem customizing or modifying a product to make it work for your boat. They do miss Guido....their long time product and customers service guy who died a few years ago... but for those of us who understand the difficulty of any marine supplier staying afloat coolthey get our respect. I sincerely ask that you take it easy with the trash talking, especially with just the one incident... that's not what we're here for. Good luck, have fun, be open minded.
[/QUOTE]
ditto for me!

 

[dlochner]

I'd be doing some testing to make sure 1" tubing is up to the task of a 115lbs motor. However, if you do upgrade to a larger size or use bushings, I would take a look at using some aluminum stage lighting clamps. Search for double cheeseborough clamps.

Here's what I did for my 100w solar panel. I think the largest bolt you could fit in there is a 5/16" if you drilled out the fittings. 1/4" would easily fit but an outboard is a lot of load for a bolt that size in my opinion. If you use bimini hardware, I suggest upgrading to bolts or hex head screws as the phillips and flatheads are easy to strip. The washers are in there because I was working with what I had on hand

Good point. The center of the motor mount should be directly over a stanchion. A 1" tube is strong enough to support the motor when it is in compression, however the weight is suspended between 2 stanchions it may begin to sag and not be stiff enough to support the weight over the long term.

 

[PaulK]

awesome!!
outboard is 15hp.....
but I really like the concept and it's actually what I designed last night

That design will work to lift the motor, but when you swing the arm forward to move the motor to the mounting board the arm is going to hit the bimini support and not go far enough. The horizontal arm needs to be bent in an arc to the left (if you're mounting it to starboard) so that it will swing the motor all the way in to the mounting board and not hit the bimini support.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

Good point. The center of the motor mount should be directly over a stanchion. A 1" tube is strong enough to support the motor when it is in compression, however the weight is suspended between 2 stanchions it may begin to sag and not be stiff enough to support the weight over the long term.

A small brace or two between the stanchions and the arch could help substantially. The arch looks like it's made from 1.25-1.5" tubing.

ahahah
110 lbs 15hp

I went to a flea market hosted by Nautical Donations in Chicago earlier today. They had a whole bunch of bimini bows, hardware and a ton of boat stuff in general for insanely cheap prices if you decide to go with this method

 

[PaulK]

If you're looking for SS tubing, junkyards can be a good bet. Hospitals use it for piping oxygen to patients' rooms and they are constantly revamping their systems. The old tubing ends up in the junkyard, sold by the pound. We replaced stanchions for $2.50/lb

 

[Project_Mayhem]

That design will work to lift the motor, but when you swing the arm forward to move the motor to the mounting board the arm is going to hit the bimini support and not go far enough. The horizontal arm needs to be bent in an arc to the left (if you're mounting it to starboard) so that it will swing the motor all the way in to the mounting board and not hit the bimini support.

You're correct. I would attach it to the sternrail with a couple of clamps or one sternrail clamp an a stanchion base if the OP is willing to drill into his deck. I would add a support or two between the sternrail and the arch. Alternatively, the bimini support could be attached to the Arch

@xavpil What size tubing is your arch made from?