Opions for replacing cabin sole

Steve L22188 · Aug 30, 2009

Refinish the sole?

If the sole isn't damaged -- just scuffed and looking bad -- you might try refinishing.

I just did a teak and holly veneer refinish in my 1988 O'Day 302. Took out the pieces that were removable and sanded (not too much -- the veneer is thin) and refinished in my garage. The rest of the floor was installed with 5200 and wasn't going anywhere. I sanded and refinished that area (and the companionway stairs) in the boat. Tough sanding and finishing in the tight spaces -- but it looks like a million bucks.

I used Ultimate Sole sealer and finish coat. This stuff looks great and goes on easy. Just follow the directions faithfully and get a good, smooth surface to work from as the base. Can't say enough good things about Ultimate Sole.

Hermit Scott · Aug 30, 2009

Starfish-please take some pictures to let us know what you are starting with. there are a few excellent wood craftsmen on here. If they know what you are looking at it's easier to give more specific advice.

Paul Mermelstein · Aug 30, 2009

It really depends upon what is wrong with the sole and what you really have:

1. Most likely, the teak and holly is no where near 1/4 inch thick (although not impossible).
1a. If it is that thick, just sand and refinish.
1b. But if not, sanding could easily wear through the veneer. But look below ...

2. However, it could be just the finish (varnish maybe) that needs refurbishing. If so, use a chemical FINISH & VARNISH remover (not paint remover) to remove the damaged finish and then do a very light sanding, then refinish.

If you are not sure how far the damage goes, do #2 on a test area to find out.

Good luck.

Paul

Ross · Aug 30, 2009

I would clean and clean and clean that wood. sand it lightly and varnish it and see if I was satisfied with the look. Changing the floor is going to be a major remodeling job that will ultimately result in the refinishing of the rest of the interior brightwork. Much if not all of the cabinet work will be tabbed into the hull.

Roger Long · Aug 30, 2009

Starfish said:
The Holly strips in some places have completely pulled away from the teak.

Pull the loose Holly pieces out and reglue them with wood glue (not epoxy) so you can wash t he excess off with water. Sand and scrape the whole thing and refinish with either 12 coats of varnish or just oil. Since it isn't exposed to UV or weather, you can use almost anything. I would us the Benjamin Moore water based urethane varnish I've been using on our house floors for years. It dries so fast you can put on about 6 coats a day.

You'll be amazed how it looks and it isn't such a big job that you'll have wasted a lot of time if it really is un-salvagable. I'll be amazed though if you still want to rip all that wood out, even after seeing those pictures.

Here's a cheaper alternative if you do want to replace the teak. Laminate five dollar bills over the existing plywood using that clear epoxy resin sometimes used to make bar tables with sea shells and other stuff imbedded in the surface.

Ross · Aug 30, 2009

Re: Tabbed to the hull?

I make a living repairing houses and successfully removing a damaged piece of flooring up to the cabinet bases is one of the most demanding and difficult jobs I encounter. There are a few very expensive power tools that can flush cut to vertical surfaces but I don't believe I have seen one that can cut into a tight corner. Not removing the complete overlay will leave you with a joint around the entire perimeter of the repair that will trap water and accelerate the deterioration of the repair.
An honest effort to clean up and refinish what you have may likely yield better results than you anticipate. It certainly won't cost much to try.

Hermit Scott · Aug 31, 2009

I have been refinishing the teak in my boat. That looks refinishable to me. I would do what Ross recommends. I bought some varnish and finish remover from home depot. It smeels like oranges and works in 10 minutes.
I would:
1. clean the floor the best you can with just water to get all the dirt up as much as possible.
2.Use the finish remover. Use a scraper to remove the nastiness that will bubble up. Use towels and fresh water to rinse. Repeat step 2 until almost all the varnish is gone. Not a big deal if some is left.
3.Glue any loose pieces back in place. Replace any missing pieces with the right verneer. You will be able to cut it with a razor knife. Clean up the glue with moist sponge or rag. Lightly sand with 180 by hand. Clean it up and brush on a good polyurethane for floors. Put at least one or two more coats, sanding in between for the best smoothness.
This is a $100 including lunch. It will take more than one day because you have to let the water dry after stripping it.
I got this method right here on this forum by a guy named TonyB.
I know it seems to you like the floor can't be saved. And you won't think it can until you lay down the first coat of polyurethane. It will look like Bob Villa did it. You could almost get away with gluing everything back in place and just coating it in polyurethane. It would look better than it does now, but would not adhere well without removing all the old stuff and lightly sanding it.

Tim R. · Aug 31, 2009

Cutting up to or near the edge of the cabinetry can always be covered with a small piece of teak trim. My boat from the factory has this trim and it gives a nice finished look to the interior.

That being said, I would try cleaning first. USe some Captain John's teak cleaner followed by a Tide/bleach/water mixture. 1 galllon hot water, 1 cup tide, 1 cup bleach.

Captain John's teak cleaner/bleach mix before and after:

Teak sole trim:

Check out my web page below for more info.

alexco38 · Aug 31, 2009

Looks like there is a wood trim hiding some screw heads around the perimeter. See if can pull a small section out. There is usually a wood plug covering the screw head on the wood trim. Just drill a small hole and use a wood screw to pull the plug out.

On my boat the entire floorboard can be pulled out for refinishing. You might want to consider this idea for future maintenance.

sand sailor · Aug 31, 2009

http://unique-teak.com
check out this option

Alan K · Aug 31, 2009

Lonseal makes a great teak and holly sheet floor that would lay right over your existing floor. It's waterproof and looks very real.

http://www.lonsealspecialty.com/pdf/LONSEALSTEAKANDHOLLYOUTSHINETHECOMPETITION.pdf

Steve Dion · Aug 31, 2009

Several options. Personally I think that these products are the wave of the future for production boats. It is also a good long time solution with little or no maintenance.

http://plasteak.com/osc/index.php?cPath=1&osCsid=6f68faf6b6f3068bac7ce3186582a9fd

Hermit Scott · Aug 31, 2009

I was helping a guy dock his boat and noticed his bilge cover looked like teak and holly, but had delaminated from the plywood base. It was the formica look a like. The prices look like they are for boats. If they were $50 for a 4x8, I would consider it. But for the price they are asking, I would install real wood.

Ross · Sep 1, 2009

Can somebody help me understand the aversion to solid wood cabin soles? We are endowed in this country with several species of hard durable wood that makes excellant flooring. Vertical grain douglas fir is fine for porches with a good varnich finish. White oak, sassafras, cypress and black cherry are all beautiful. Black locust is harder than teak and much more durable. I used black walnut in my boat.

Rick D · Sep 1, 2009

Sure, Ross. It dings. It absorbs moisture and discolors. It can be slick when wet. It decays. I would prefer an FRP with a composite synthetic wood overlay. I have varnished and loved many a wood floor, but faced with a grand for just one replacement panel... that would never match... I went for Lonseal. Natural wood is superior in texture and beauty, but you get over it. I always wanted a Choey Lee Lion. When I could afford one, I was over it. 19 years with a wood boat made me a realist.

Hermit Scott · Sep 1, 2009

The floor in my boat is UGLY. It is manilla colored gelcoat. If you look closely they have some kind of wood texture for grip. The floor in a C30 is curved up at the edges.
what can I lay down that will handle the curves on the sides? And how do I attach it?

I ended up with some convincing looking wood planks that are as flexible as rubber. I installed them as a counter top in my shop apartment, just because they were there.
I am not completely opposed to using something like that but I prefer real wood if it's possible. Do I want a special type of glue or does the regular contact cement for formica good for it?

I don't know what would match either? Do I have to put teak wood or teak look-a-like flooring to make it look right? what other woods 'go' with teak?

starfish-I don't know what your budget for this project is, but to floor my boat with teak and holly would be more than my boat cost. I don't know if you are looking for options or not.

BobM · Sep 1, 2009

I have the same problem. I wish someone would make a teak and holly composite floating floor. I have to fix something under my floor, otherwise I'd be mighty tempted to put in some thin composite wood look alike floating flooring I saw recently at Home Despot.

Opions for replacing cabin sole

.

.

.

.

.

Attachments

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.