CAN THE RIGGING BE TOO LOOSE ? Is it possible to hurt anything? My 222 is 7/8ths fractional and although shrouds are rather loose at rest at the dock, their tension is the same on each side. the back stay seems loose to me. I sleep on the boat on Wednesdays and one night there was horrendous winds that caused the CDI furler to gallop like telephone wires in a storm. Might need to increase tension there.? I have also been looking for a procedure.
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Chuck , O'Day recommended
that the rigging be hand tight. They disclaimed that if the rigging was over tightened, it would damage the boat. I had a hard time with that for a while but it allows the boat to respond, the chain plate to the bulkhead to the pressure the bulkhead put on the deck. If you crank everything tight all the time, the deck distorts and the bulkhead are stressed. I would hand tighten the shrouds so that when you grab them about 4 feet off the deck that there is about 1" of play. When sailing the leeward shroud will sag. As for the fore and back stay, you will need to tension them so that the foil of the CDI does not have a lot of sag.( this will make it hard to furl) Testing the back stay, you will probably find that it is just a little bit tighter that the shrouds. Outer shrouds should be a touch tighter than the inner shrouds. This theory goes against the Loos gage. But remember I would rather do what the boat MFG recommended than some one trying to sell tension gages. Rule of thumb tighten the fore and back stays to about 75%. Tighten the outer shrouds so that the mast is plumb. Tighten the inner shrouds while sighting up the mast to keep the stick straight. Then finish off the fore and back stays tensioning. r.w.landau
that the rigging be hand tight. They disclaimed that if the rigging was over tightened, it would damage the boat. I had a hard time with that for a while but it allows the boat to respond, the chain plate to the bulkhead to the pressure the bulkhead put on the deck. If you crank everything tight all the time, the deck distorts and the bulkhead are stressed. I would hand tighten the shrouds so that when you grab them about 4 feet off the deck that there is about 1" of play. When sailing the leeward shroud will sag. As for the fore and back stay, you will need to tension them so that the foil of the CDI does not have a lot of sag.( this will make it hard to furl) Testing the back stay, you will probably find that it is just a little bit tighter that the shrouds. Outer shrouds should be a touch tighter than the inner shrouds. This theory goes against the Loos gage. But remember I would rather do what the boat MFG recommended than some one trying to sell tension gages. Rule of thumb tighten the fore and back stays to about 75%. Tighten the outer shrouds so that the mast is plumb. Tighten the inner shrouds while sighting up the mast to keep the stick straight. Then finish off the fore and back stays tensioning. r.w.landau
Does your 222 have the standard mainsheet.......
....that attaches to the triangle plate in the backstay? It seems to me that the backstay would "self-tension" under sail and one wouldn't need a lot of static tension on it. I think it's important that all the slack be removed from the rig so that it doesn't experience any shock loads during tacks of choppy conditions from flopping from side to the other. If the rotater plate in the backstay is functioning as it was designed it should increase tension on the backstay and forestay to keep the jib luff from sagging excessively. Its not clear to me what more static tension on the rig would offer, other than stressing the boat. If you are curious as to what too much tension can cause, check out the posts on the "bigger boats" section of this forum under "Keel crack O'day 27" Yikes!
....that attaches to the triangle plate in the backstay? It seems to me that the backstay would "self-tension" under sail and one wouldn't need a lot of static tension on it. I think it's important that all the slack be removed from the rig so that it doesn't experience any shock loads during tacks of choppy conditions from flopping from side to the other. If the rotater plate in the backstay is functioning as it was designed it should increase tension on the backstay and forestay to keep the jib luff from sagging excessively. Its not clear to me what more static tension on the rig would offer, other than stressing the boat. If you are curious as to what too much tension can cause, check out the posts on the "bigger boats" section of this forum under "Keel crack O'day 27" Yikes!
No standard main sheet-------
My boat came with the triangle in a plastic bag in the cabin.. Main sheet attaches to a padeye where the line for the centerboard runs up and down. The boom has the nice "U" shaped Gizzie where the block attaches with a snap swivel there and at the padeye. There is just a turnbuckle on the aft stay.
My boat came with the triangle in a plastic bag in the cabin.. Main sheet attaches to a padeye where the line for the centerboard runs up and down. The boom has the nice "U" shaped Gizzie where the block attaches with a snap swivel there and at the padeye. There is just a turnbuckle on the aft stay.
My experience is of no value then......
..... I suppose if the rig isn't going to self-tension via the rotator in the backstay you are going to have to do it yourself with the turnbuckle. But, how much? I guess I'd start with hand-tight and see how much forestay sag you get. If the sail shape if okay, I'd quit there. If your jib is all baggy, you may have to increase tension. I'd be careful though, as the rigging gets real tight, it's like a bow and arrow trying to shoot the mast through the bottom of the boat.
..... I suppose if the rig isn't going to self-tension via the rotator in the backstay you are going to have to do it yourself with the turnbuckle. But, how much? I guess I'd start with hand-tight and see how much forestay sag you get. If the sail shape if okay, I'd quit there. If your jib is all baggy, you may have to increase tension. I'd be careful though, as the rigging gets real tight, it's like a bow and arrow trying to shoot the mast through the bottom of the boat.
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