O'day 25 wiring upgrade

[Ward H]

My 1980 O’day 25 has a pretty simple DC layout.
1- 4 Cabin dome lights.
2- Running Lights. Steaming light.
3- Will have anchor light.
4- VHF.
5- Compass light.
6- Will have cig lighter sockets and USB for accessories.
The current switch panel is stock and has 4 switches with push button breakers and is wired directly to battery.
The electric start and charging outboard is also connected directly to the battery (2 wires only).
No battery switch.

I plan to replace the stock panel with a 6 switch panel with lighter sockets, USB socket, power indicator LEDs and a 4 position battery switch. I am thinking 4 position switch in case I add another battery later this summer.
I will install a MBF fuse at the battery positive terminal to protect the wiring and a fuse block to protect the loads. Fuse block, terminal strip and negative buss bar will probably be mounted on a board in the lazzarete near the battery. I will run wires from the fuse block to each switch and then back to a terminal strip. I will connect the appropriate loads to the terminal strip and a neg buss bar.
If there is room behind the switch panel on the opposite wall I may mount the fuse block, buss bar and terminal strip there and hinge the switch panel. Opening the panel will then give me easy access to all the wiring and fuses.
Most all parts will be Blue Sea Systems from Defender.
I mostly day sail with some late evenings at anchor and then motor home. I will be switching to LED lighting as time and funds allow.
My questions are:
1. I heard that the VHF should be wired directly to the battery with its own fuse so if all else fails the radio still works. True? I would rather wire it after the battery switch so I don’t run down the battery and I do have a portable radio.
2. I plan to connect the OB to after the battery switch. Is this correct? I saw a thread where one person connected it directly to the battery.
3. I will research the correct wiring size and will follow Maine’s tips on connectors. Will the amount of wires on the panel flex enough for the panel to be opened if on a hinge?
I made some drawings of my plans. I’m open to suggestions and comments.
Thanks
Ward

 

[Chris Patterson]

Ward, I've gotta say, from MY perspective, that layout looks very well thought out. Myself, I always wire auto bilge pumps, and two ways straight to the battery. In a "terminal meltdown", at least you're still pumping and talking. If you're worried about leaving it on, I like a pre-flight checklist, and a shut-down checklist just for such things as what should have been switched off, on, etc.

If you build a nice loop in the wiring feeding the panel, it should hinge nicely. A well thought out panel should have this feature in case you need to pull it out to troubleshoot it from cabin-side anyway.

Nicely done.

Maine'll hate it..

 

[CalebD]

Ward,
I'm no expert in wiring but here is my $.02.

In the old school days, before hand held radios it was customary (for some) to wire the VHF directly to the battery. Obviously this was for safety reasons. May not be so essential today with a hand held.

That said, my on my boat the VHF is wired to the battery and I am quite happy with this arrangement. I like that the radio will work just by turning the switch on (and off when done!). Just one more item for the "leaving the boat" check list.

 

[sdstef]

that looks good Ward. I did some of the same things. I put the buss and fuse blocks up in on the bulkhead just slightly lower than the factory installed dome light in the lazerette. I am barely able to fit down through the opening, so I can get to it from the cockpit. I want to install a battery selector switch this year. Every time I left the boat, I was wondering if I left something on. I will install it on the bulkhead where the switch banks are. Good luck. and have fun with it.

 

[Erieau]

Those are beautiful drawings, Ward. Did you do those from scratch in MS Paint, or is there software for wiring diagrams?
Incidentally, I've re-done my 25's panel twice. I just didn't like the layout the way I did it the first time.

 

[Ward H]

Thanks for the input.
I use the drawing function in MS PowerPoint. I like that you can draw objects like a switch, then group the objects together and copy / paste for more switches.

Thinking about the radio some more, I always have my portable with me so I will probably wire the VHF to the fuse block. If not I will be driving back to the boat just to check the if the radio is on.

I think there is room behind the current location of the panel. I plan to epoxy a mounting board to the back of the bridge deck wall for the fuse block and strips.
If not it will go into the lazerette.

 

[Maine Sail]

Are you re-using and older panel? I really do like the pre-made Blue Sea panels and the magnetic breakers are extremely reliable in the marine environment when compared to fuses/holders.. The Blue Sea 8023 is a great value for what you get. These panels are very well made and used plated copper bus bars, magnetic breakers and have back lighting for the labels. They even have a negative bus right on the back of the panel. It comes with five breakers installed but you can add up to three more for a total of eight.

A couple of thoughts:

Running lights and compass can be on the same circuit. If you need the compass light then you also need the running lights on.

Steaming light really needs to be its own circuit as you may be sailing at night and in that case you don't need the steaming light on. Steaming light is only on when motoring at night.

Anchor light should be own circuit.

In a well wired system I have no issues with the VHF going to the breaker panel. Alternatively you can go right to the "C" post of the battery switch. On a system with lots of "unknown's" I prefer the VHF to go to the "C" post of the battery switch or to the battery, fused.

If you wire the panel right it can easily be on a hinge and I much prefer a hinged panel for access.

This was an Ericson 32-3 as it came from the factory with the obligatory previous owner "mods"....

This is what it looked like after I re-wired it and built a hinged door. Access is now easy, clean and possible without breaking wires or causing "disconnects"...

I very much dislike battery switches in DC panels but the owner did not want to spend the money on an entirely new custom made panel to fit the location.

Out of that entire panel every DC breaker was still working perfectly. Because they were pushing 26 years the owner decided on a complete panel re-build and they were replaced.

 

[Ward H]

Hi Maine,
I did look at the 8023 panel. Very nice. However, the Blue Sea web site recomends in-line fuses or using a fuse block for low powered accessories like a sounder and GPS. Having in-line fuses or a fuse block after a breaker adds cost.
I was hoping that by using Blue Sea components for the switches and fuse blocks and building my own panel I would have a quality system suitable for the basic electrical system of my boat at the lowest possible cost.

Thanks for all the recomendations. Everything is under consideration.

 

[Maine Sail]

Hi Maine,
I did look at the 8023 panel. Very nice. However, the Blue Sea web site recomends in-line fuses or using a fuse block for low powered accessories like a sounder and GPS. Having in-line fuses or a fuse block after a breaker adds cost.
I was hoping that by using Blue Sea components for the switches and fuse blocks and building my own panel I would have a quality system suitable for the basic electrical system of my boat at the lowest possible cost.

Thanks for all the recomendations. Everything is under consideration.

Breakers in the panel are sized to protect the wire. Fuses near an instrument, where they really should be if using them, are sized for the manufacturers suggestion. These fuses don't necessarily "save" the instruments but protect the smaller wire inside the instrument or the "pig-tail" exiting the instrument... One small in-line fuse can protect all your instruments if they are all next to one another.... Lights don't need them, a VHF can be protected by a breaker or fuse, stereo again an in-line fuse close to the device...