So attached is the old frame with the one broken piece missing, and a view looking in the window seal with both pieces of fiberglass. Initially, I was going to superglue the broken piece back on and the reinstall the port light, but when I dropped it and got the second break I’m not sure.
If I were to go acrylic, I’d have todo something with the current windows that are hidden by the frames.
the last picture shows remnants of some sealer that was there. It didn’t look like it was entirely around the frame, but between the lower “sill” of the window cutout.
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I searched and couldn’t find the answer, doesn’t mean it’s not here, just that I’m not smart enough.
Anyway, my portlights leak on my 25. Took out the front port one, dropped it and broke the 1984 plastic edge. I saved one, but watched in horror as the other piece fell in the drink And sunk. Best I can tell is that I either do the exterior acrylic window replacement or buy new windows from Rudy.
I have two questions:
- if I go with new units from Rudy, how do those get sealed? Does anyone have a write up or link to the process?
- if I go acrylic, any ideas on patching up the inside of the window and the two pieces of fiberglass from the hull and liner? Any pics of that?
thanks
Ray
Hello Ray-- I just replaced the 2 head opening ports and the 4 main salon portlights on my 1976 OD25 in the spring. It's a tedious job and I decided to do it all while still on the hard, taking as much time as I needed to think it all through. I used everything that Rudy sells for this job: the 4 ports and multiple tubes (8 tubes I think!) of 795.
Now, the salon portlights are pretty much an exact fit, while the new Beckson opening ports that replaced the old PYHI ports for the head required slight trimming to open up the rough openings to get them to fit. You'll need 1/8 inch clearance on all sides. With the ports all removed, you'll see that the boys at the factory used a jigsaw to make the openings and they are not precise or identical. But any trimming requires some careful work with a rotary tool, with some FG dust being spread about. If you use one of these tools, it's really like a hand held router and can chew through the FG like butter. So be methodical and very careful , as there's no going back if you remove too much FG for the fit.
I used the Beckson trim rings to pattern the head openings, tracing around the interior with a pencil so I knew exactly where I needed to trim the FG. Beckson has extensive installation instructions on the web and I only used that as guidance, as I mounted them like the PYHI's were mounted except I drilled fewer holes. The salon ports needed no trimming but maybe a small bit of filing to clean up the edges. The spaces between the coachroof and the FG headliner in the salon and head needed shimming to maintain alignment, edge spacing and strength so I used cedar shims where necessary (Home Depot to the rescue) cut to size with a Stanley knife, and then filled the space all around with 795 to lock in the shims and provide a clean edge on all 4 ports. Once dry and hardened after 2 days or so the salon ports went in with more 795 liberally injected around all sides to ensure a tight and totally sealed fit. Same for the head ports after the new screw holes were drilled from the inside. The trim rings were then attached to the outside using only 795 as I wanted no screws showing.
I replaced my clear lights with the smoked models for a more modern look, and am very pleased with the outcome. Good Luck!