Oday 25 portlights

Jul 29, 2021
18
oday 25 Eagle Mountain Lake
I searched and couldn’t find the answer, doesn’t mean it’s not here, just that I’m not smart enough.
Anyway, my portlights leak on my 25. Took out the front port one, dropped it and broke the 1984 plastic edge. I saved one, but watched in horror as the other piece fell in the drink And sunk. Best I can tell is that I either do the exterior acrylic window replacement or buy new windows from Rudy.
I have two questions:
- if I go with new units from Rudy, how do those get sealed? Does anyone have a write up or link to the process?
- if I go acrylic, any ideas on patching up the inside of the window and the two pieces of fiberglass from the hull and liner? Any pics of that?

thanks
Ray
 
Feb 21, 2013
4,638
Hunter 46 Point Richmond, CA
To seal replacement portlight apply BoatLife Life-Calk with an applicator tube gun. Just did that for 4 replacement portlights. For a procedure refer to this article DIY: Replacing Fixed Portlights - Sail Magazine AND a search in this site for how to do install portlights.

If you install an acrylic lens then secure with Dow 795. As far as patching the inside windown section between the liner and hull..........consider filling voids with epoxy, patch with fiberglass then gelcoat.
 
Last edited:
Jul 29, 2021
18
oday 25 Eagle Mountain Lake
So attached is the old frame with the one broken piece missing, and a view looking in the window seal with both pieces of fiberglass. Initially, I was going to superglue the broken piece back on and the reinstall the port light, but when I dropped it and got the second break I’m not sure.
If I were to go acrylic, I’d have todo something with the current windows that are hidden by the frames.
the last picture shows remnants of some sealer that was there. It didn’t look like it was entirely around the frame, but between the lower “sill” of the window cutout.
287FEF95-B1A1-4818-9EDD-28C12CF91422.jpeg
63C83299-CB38-41C7-A173-28D5304C795C.jpeg
FD781A48-245D-4302-8303-626E7F0A7264.jpeg
E45FFE59-8DDC-460B-8C07-1485E7182157.jpeg
 
Jan 22, 2008
9
Oday 25 Centerport , NY
So attached is the old frame with the one broken piece missing, and a view looking in the window seal with both pieces of fiberglass. Initially, I was going to superglue the broken piece back on and the reinstall the port light, but when I dropped it and got the second break I’m not sure.
If I were to go acrylic, I’d have todo something with the current windows that are hidden by the frames.
the last picture shows remnants of some sealer that was there. It didn’t look like it was entirely around the frame, but between the lower “sill” of the window cutout.View attachment 200589View attachment 200590View attachment 200591View attachment 200592
I searched and couldn’t find the answer, doesn’t mean it’s not here, just that I’m not smart enough.
Anyway, my portlights leak on my 25. Took out the front port one, dropped it and broke the 1984 plastic edge. I saved one, but watched in horror as the other piece fell in the drink And sunk. Best I can tell is that I either do the exterior acrylic window replacement or buy new windows from Rudy.
I have two questions:
- if I go with new units from Rudy, how do those get sealed? Does anyone have a write up or link to the process?
- if I go acrylic, any ideas on patching up the inside of the window and the two pieces of fiberglass from the hull and liner? Any pics of that?

thanks
Ray
Hello Ray-- I just replaced the 2 head opening ports and the 4 main salon portlights on my 1976 OD25 in the spring. It's a tedious job and I decided to do it all while still on the hard, taking as much time as I needed to think it all through. I used everything that Rudy sells for this job: the 4 ports and multiple tubes (8 tubes I think!) of 795.

Now, the salon portlights are pretty much an exact fit, while the new Beckson opening ports that replaced the old PYHI ports for the head required slight trimming to open up the rough openings to get them to fit. You'll need 1/8 inch clearance on all sides. With the ports all removed, you'll see that the boys at the factory used a jigsaw to make the openings and they are not precise or identical. But any trimming requires some careful work with a rotary tool, with some FG dust being spread about. If you use one of these tools, it's really like a hand held router and can chew through the FG like butter. So be methodical and very careful , as there's no going back if you remove too much FG for the fit.

I used the Beckson trim rings to pattern the head openings, tracing around the interior with a pencil so I knew exactly where I needed to trim the FG. Beckson has extensive installation instructions on the web and I only used that as guidance, as I mounted them like the PYHI's were mounted except I drilled fewer holes. The salon ports needed no trimming but maybe a small bit of filing to clean up the edges. The spaces between the coachroof and the FG headliner in the salon and head needed shimming to maintain alignment, edge spacing and strength so I used cedar shims where necessary (Home Depot to the rescue) cut to size with a Stanley knife, and then filled the space all around with 795 to lock in the shims and provide a clean edge on all 4 ports. Once dry and hardened after 2 days or so the salon ports went in with more 795 liberally injected around all sides to ensure a tight and totally sealed fit. Same for the head ports after the new screw holes were drilled from the inside. The trim rings were then attached to the outside using only 795 as I wanted no screws showing.

I replaced my clear lights with the smoked models for a more modern look, and am very pleased with the outcome. Good Luck!
 
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Mar 16, 2021
29
O'Day 25 eagle mountain lake
Thanks @Peter18046 my wife just wants to replace with parts from Rudy. I do like the idea of the shims between the layers of fiberglass. I’ll post pictures when we’re done
 
Sep 24, 2018
2,549
O'Day 25 Chicago
@racenmotorsports Did you ever get this figured out? I've repaired a couple of frames that the plastic broke off of with fiberglass and paint. The results were good. Hardest part was masking the window to paint
 
Mar 16, 2021
29
O'Day 25 eagle mountain lake
@Project_Mayhem Yes I did. We ordered brand new portlights both sets. Coming up with the plan to replace them next month. Since I'm going to see the grandkid, I'm taking the rudder with me to Florida where I can find a lot more availability on glass materials than here in Texas (or at least I know where to find it there)
 
Sep 24, 2018
2,549
O'Day 25 Chicago
Don't use butyl to install the windows. Use 3M 4000 UV, 3M 4200 or Loktite PL series marine adhesive/sealant
 
Sep 24, 2018
2,549
O'Day 25 Chicago
If it's that gray gooey butyl like stuff I think I used a plastic scraper and one or more of the following: acetone, goo gone (doesnt harm plexi) or alcohol (removes goo gone residue). Since the area your trying to clean is hidden you can always sand it. I was using a Scotch-Brite wheel on a drill a lot during that time so there's a small chance I may have also used that. Keep some paper towels on hand and put some paper/plastic on the inside of the window opening to keep debris from falling inside
 
Dec 4, 2010
1
Oday 25 Kenora
Don't use butyl to install the windows. Use 3M 4000 UV, 3M 4200 or Loktite PL series marine adhesive/sealant

I had to rebed our windows a number of years back and I used 3M 4200. Two years later they were leaking again but this time because I used 4200 the plastic window frames were cracking and breaking when trying to get out.

I have found from personal experience you will eventually get leakage regardless of what you use so I would recommend a marine type silicone and just expect to do some rebedding again a few years down the road. The big difference being you can get the plastic apart much easier and without fear of breaking!

s/v 3 Monkeys
 
Sep 24, 2018
2,549
O'Day 25 Chicago
I had to rebed our windows a number of years back and I used 3M 4200. Two years later they were leaking again but this time because I used 4200 the plastic window frames were cracking and breaking when trying to get out.

I have found from personal experience you will eventually get leakage regardless of what you use so I would recommend a marine type silicone and just expect to do some rebedding again a few years down the road. The big difference being you can get the plastic apart much easier and without fear of breaking!

s/v 3 Monkeys
Yes, I did forget to list Dow Corning or Sika silicone in my list of suggested sealants.

Nice blog! Very well done with a ton of info! Welcome to the forum!
 
Mar 16, 2021
29
O'Day 25 eagle mountain lake
I found locktight pl marine at HD and plan on using that combined with some cedar shims between the fiberglass layers
 
Mar 16, 2021
29
O'Day 25 eagle mountain lake
I saw somewhere that it supports the fiberglass and keeps it separate so it doesn’t run against each other and leak. You only secure one side and let the other slide. The factory filled the gap with white sealant on mine anyway.
 
Sep 24, 2018
2,549
O'Day 25 Chicago
The window is sealed to the outside layer. Im guessing if the two layers weren't sealed together water would hit the balsa in the deck and then come into the cabin making the wall wet. I've definitely seen we walls on my boat. At this point I'm speculating but will definitely seal the two layers together next time I have to rebed a window
 
Mar 16, 2021
29
O'Day 25 eagle mountain lake
Yeah I’ll post pictures of how I do it when o get back to out in a week or so. Of winter decides to leave dfw finally. Too many weeks of sleet freezing temps snow and cold this winter. Global warming and all ya know.
 
Mar 16, 2021
29
O'Day 25 eagle mountain lake
Just wanted to update this a bit. The rest of life has affected any time we've had to sail or work on our boat. The heat has finally broken here in Fort Worth and I'll be getting these windows installed in the next week or so and finish the bimini install. I got one of those vibrating tools and they make a scraper blade for it which works awesome for removing the sealant. It literally took about 5 minutes to cut out the window and clean off the sealant. I'll post pics later when we do the install.
 
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Jun 20, 2014
39
Oday 28 2 Bay City
Just wanted to update this a bit. The rest of life has affected any time we've had to sail or work on our boat. The heat has finally broken here in Fort Worth and I'll be getting these windows installed in the next week or so and finish the bimini install. I got one of those vibrating tools and they make a scraper blade for it which works awesome for removing the sealant. It literally took about 5 minutes to cut out the window and clean off the sealant. I'll post pics later when we do the install.
I am doing this job on my O'Day 28, so thanks in advance for any pictures you post. My portlights came out easily. I had hoped to try to rebuild or fix them, but no parts anywhere. Thank goodness Rudy at DR Marine still has a source for them.
 
Sep 24, 2018
2,549
O'Day 25 Chicago
I've repaired cracked frames with fiberglass and paint. They looked decent at 5ft away. I can elaborate on the process if you'd like