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O'day 222 sliding hatch

Sep 29, 2013
23
Oday O'Day 222, O'Day 19 19- No Name Casco Bay, Falmouth, ME
I just purchased an O'Day 222 that has a few issues, but the most troubling is that the sliding hatch was damaged some time in the past and needs to be repaired/replaced. It appears that the mast was dropped on it and cracked the glass on the aft edge and in the center. Water leaked in, probably froze and thawed many cycles, and now that I have the boat, I want to repair/replace it. I'm going to talk to Rudy at D&R Marine, but I've seen from earlier threads that he apparently doesn't have the molds for this model. Anyone have one kicking around or any thoughts on rebuilding this one would be appreciated. The two prices I got from boat repair facilities were both over $1200 and $2000, making the hatch worth about 1/2 the cost of the boat. Ideas?
 
Nov 9, 2012
2,477
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
Without seeing the damage, my guess, having seen cracks in the aft edge of other hatches, that if one is familiar with fiberglass repair, it could be repaired easily enough. Now, if the core is all delaminated, it would probably be more difficult, but still doable. Can you post some pics?
 
Sep 29, 2013
23
Oday O'Day 222, O'Day 19 19- No Name Casco Bay, Falmouth, ME
Brian,
Below please see 4 photos of the damage. There is about a 28" square core in the center of the sliding hatch, and when I removed the hatch from the boat, water poured out. I'm sure that this damage occurred years ago and went through a number of freezing/thawing cycles, so much of the core is delaminated. As you can see, a very poor repair was attempted some time ago. I hope you can understand the photos and orientation. If I cannot come up with a better alternative, I will attempt a repair. I might spend $150 to $250 on materials and still be way ahead of the boat shop estimates.


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IMG_1452.jpgIMG_1453.jpgIMG_1454.jpg.
 
Nov 9, 2012
2,477
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
Yeah, I think you can grind out a lot of that underneath, widen out the crack. Fill the crack on the back lip with some epoxy thickened with colloidal silica and microfibers. Fill in the part you grind out with layers of fabric and some mat. It would be best to grind off the gelcoat on the outside so that the repair adheres to the old resin and glass, not the gelcoat, and put 2 layers of fabric. It probably won't look pretty, but it would be strong again. I also think you could grind off a section of non-skid there, in a nice centered rectangle, to lay the fabric over, and then you could paint the perimeter to all match. Maybe the rectangle with new fabric could be painted the perimeter color with some non-skid. Or maybe you just repaint the whole non-skid area with grey Interlux Interdeck. The biggest issue is to grind back all the cracks to bevel in the new repair, and provide a lot of adhesion surface either side of the crack. If you don't know fiberglass repair, you can look up youtube videos of patching through hulls, and see how to bevel back and lay in layers of glass.
 
Nov 9, 2012
2,477
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
I have no doubt that could be repaired to look almost new, but I know if I did the repair it would look OK maybe, but certainly not like new! :D:D:D
 
Sep 29, 2013
23
Oday O'Day 222, O'Day 19 19- No Name Casco Bay, Falmouth, ME
Brian,
Thanks for the response. I've done enough fiberglass work and have watched the YouTube videos that I'm going to do the repair myself. I'll try to make it look as close to new (or at least to the same condition as the rest of the 32 year old boat) as possible.
 
Nov 9, 2012
2,477
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
Brian,
Thanks for the response. I've done enough fiberglass work and have watched the YouTube videos that I'm going to do the repair myself. I'll try to make it look as close to new (or at least to the same condition as the rest of the 32 year old boat) as possible.
I have two fears on fiberglass repairs anymore. 1) Matching gelcoat color 2) Matching non-skid pattern. I've seen videos of guys taking molds of existing non-skid. And I've seen pictures of people just painting with Interdeck. I think I'd just sand the rest of the non-skid smooth and paint the whole area with Interdeck!
 

mm2347

.
Oct 21, 2008
235
oday 222 niagara
I have many spare parts including a hatch for an Oday 222 1984. You can email me at mmehne47@hotmail.com.
I just purchased an O'Day 222 that has a few issues, but the most troubling is that the sliding hatch was damaged some time in the past and needs to be repaired/replaced. It appears that the mast was dropped on it and cracked the glass on the aft edge and in the center. Water leaked in, probably froze and thawed many cycles, and now that I have the boat, I want to repair/replace it. I'm going to talk to Rudy at D&R Marine, but I've seen from earlier threads that he apparently doesn't have the molds for this model. Anyone have one kicking around or any thoughts on rebuilding this one would be appreciated. The two prices I got from boat repair facilities were both over $1200 and $2000, making the hatch worth about 1/2 the cost of the boat. Ideas?
 

mm2347

.
Oct 21, 2008
235
oday 222 niagara
If you decide on repair check cond of the core. If its bad replace it. I think its not a good idea to try to fill it w/ the various fillers. Just too much area. Id also go w/ a good polyester lam. resin. You'll find that it will brake down the chop strand mat much better than epoxy making it easier to get over or into the edges or corners. Also there's less of a 2nd stage gell w/ poly. (as the resins gell they get warm and epoxy tend to soften allowing the fibers that you fought so hard to get down to slowly spring back up. anyone ever had your overhead epoxy layup that seemed rolled down and set up come down--often on you). There are other problems as well. The poly will have more than enough to do the job and cost less as added plus. I'm not anti epoxy. However I do feel its very over used and amazed at how advertising trumps all. Express Composits is a very good source of resins.
 
Sep 29, 2013
23
Oday O'Day 222, O'Day 19 19- No Name Casco Bay, Falmouth, ME
MM,
I am interested in your sliding hatch. Where are you located?
Thanks,
Wood Jigger
 
Jun 8, 2004
7,767
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Regarding the hatch, not sure how much of the balsa core is damaged. One thought. You could stand the hatch up and let the water out and leave it standing up in a dry place for about 2-3 months. When we had an issue with the deck like that, I would purchase a needle file (not sure what you would call it) as if getting a shot in the arm without the actual needle, fill it with two part resin and inject via holes drilled into the deck and then used a small air hose with a blast of air into the hole to push it further in. Worked like a charm. However there is added weight though. I would then sand the deck smooth and paint with non skid particles in the non skid areas. Not sure if that would work for you.

However, there is a thing called reverse non skid where you can apply the gel coat in a thicker paste and make a pattern for he non skid and you simply pull it off. That reverse non skid would have to be coated. The problem to match up a small area on the slider would show, so you would have to do the whole area
 
Sep 29, 2013
23
Oday O'Day 222, O'Day 19 19- No Name Casco Bay, Falmouth, ME
MM,
Have you seen my emails to your personal email account?
If not, please let me know.
Thanks