No second reefing line

Jan 10, 2018
260
Beneteau 331 Halifax
Hi all, our B331 has a first reef that works well. But there is no #2, although there are pulleys on the sails and a stopper for it on the cabintop.

What should I do? Take the boom in at the end of the season and have the rivits pulled and then when it is apart, put the lines in? Or keep the boom as is and just use cheekblocks on the outside of the boom?
 
Jan 5, 2017
2,263
Beneteau First 38 Lyall Harbour Saturna Island
Have you tried running a messenger line with a long rod/ plumbing snake etc to pull a new line through?
 

Gunni

.
Mar 16, 2010
5,937
Beneteau 411 Oceanis Annapolis
These are simple two-line systems, snake or long rod to the boom end, out the boom end pulley and pull the line through. Get a Beneteau manual for your boat and it makes perfect sense.
 
  • Like
Likes: Parsons
Feb 21, 2010
330
Beneteau 31 016 St-Lawrence river
Just tape the end of #2 reef line to the #1 line at entrance to the boom (mast end), pull #1 through until the #2 appears at the rear of the boom... undo your taping, thread where it all goes.
 

DougM

.
Jul 24, 2005
2,242
Beneteau 323 Manistee, MI
Use an electrician’s “snake” from the end of the boom forward and pull the reef lin through.
 
  • Like
Likes: Alansails
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
I’m assuming the end of your boom is open. If the snake doesn’t work, you can take the boom off in the fall stand it vertically next to a stairway and lower the lines down to the end. Do not use external reefing lines. You want to be able to bring the aft line back to a winch at the cabin top to get enough clew pressure.
 
  • Like
Likes: Parsons
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
Post 5 haas it right. Or, to say the obvious, put a piece of bike chain on some string messenger and poke it in the aft end. Use the topping lift to raise the boom, and it should slide toward the mast. You probably have to lead the line over a sheave at the mast end.
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
Just tape the end of #2 reef line to the #1 line at entrance to the boom (mast end), pull #1 through until the #2 appears at the rear of the boom... undo your taping, thread where it all goes.
Isn’t each one on its own sheave? How will that work?
 

SG

.
Feb 11, 2017
1,670
J/Boat J/160 Annapolis
Hi all, our B331 has a first reef that works well. But there is no #2, although there are pulleys on the sails and a stopper for it on the cabintop.

What should I do? Take the boom in at the end of the season and have the rivits pulled and then when it is apart, put the lines in? Or keep the boom as is and just use cheek blocks on the outside of the boom?
I suggest that you take pictures of the end of your boom and the same at the gooseneck where the reefing and other control lines have sheaves.

Some of the answers above seem to assume that you have a boom which is prepared for two reefs -- some not.

Do you have a loose footed main or not? Is your main set-up for two reefs? Do you have an adjustable out haul?
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
I suggest that you take pictures of the end of your boom and the same at the gooseneck where the reefing and other control lines have sheaves.

Some of the answers above seem to assume that you have a boom which is prepared for two reefs -- some not.

Do you have a loose footed main or not? Is your main set-up for two reefs? Do you have an adjustable out haul?
The boom is designed for two reefs and an adjustable outhaul. Normally the three sheaves at the tack are exposed. My question is are the three at the mast? Normally the slots for the lines are narrow and individual. If they are not, then feeding a line in will require gravity.
 

SG

.
Feb 11, 2017
1,670
J/Boat J/160 Annapolis

The boom is designed for two reefs and an adjustable outhaul. Normally the three sheaves at the tack are exposed. My question is are the three at the mast? Normally the slots for the lines are narrow and individual. If they are not, then feeding a line in will require gravity.


As it would be expected, there would be blocks at the boom end, (then why the discussion of external lines, etc? )

The narrow slots shouldn't be an issue if there is a cut out in the bottom in the forward section of the boom?
 
Oct 22, 2014
20,995
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Until you get the time to run #2 reef line, lower sail. Time the reef line through the #2 sail reef point and then proceed. You really are only using one of the reef points at any one time. The goose neck some times has only one hook point.
Once connected you raise the sail to set the reef.
 

SG

.
Feb 11, 2017
1,670
J/Boat J/160 Annapolis
Until you get the time to run #2 reef line, lower sail. Time the reef line through the #2 sail reef point and then proceed. You really are only using one of the reef points at any one time. The goose neck some times has only one hook point.
Once connected you raise the sail to set the reef.
The original B331 had specs for Whichard blocks to be mounted in rigs for both tack and clew reefs for the first and second reefs.

Our friend from Halifax may have a different main today, someone may have removed the blocks, but I believe there are provisions in the boom for reeling using lines. The USA models speced Neil Pryde sails. (There were in the boom roller furling ones, but the weren't applicable here)

I don't think they had any clew hooks.



BENETEAU 331
Page 32 of 73
Jan. 10, 2003
rev 02
Mainsail Specification and Technical Worksheet
Model Type:
Oceanis 331 U.S.A.
Sail Type:
Classic Mainsail Series 2000
“P” Dim:
10540
“E” Dim:
4350
Rake:
280
Area:
25.1 sqmt
Finished Dimensions
Luff:
10390
Leech:
11130
Foot:
4330
Finish Details
Material Type:
7.3 Challenge Dacron
Tack Detail:
40mm SS Ring with leather
Head Detail:
50mm S.S Ring with leather
Clew Slug/Car:
SLD 151
Head Slide:
Metal Seldon 661B
Clew Detail:
50mm SS ring with leather
Clew Reef 1:
34118 Wichard block on starboard
Side led through PG 23 ring
Tack Reef 1:
33118 Wichard block on starboard
Side led through PG 20 ring
Clew Reef 2:
34118 Wichard block on starboard
Side led through PG 23 ring
Tack Reef 2:
34118 Wichard blocs on starboard
Side led through PG 20 ring
Logos
2 bullseyes
Battens:
4 x 30mm flat
Ben. Part#:
0807-0026
Bat. Lengths:
#1
770
#2
1500
#3
2200
#4
3000
#5
n.a.
Trim stripes:
2 x 3/8" green stripes
Tell Tale:
4: 1 at each batten
Leech Cleat:
241 Alum. With snubbing eyes
Luff eyes:
13-#3 eyelets
Luff Tape:
4" with 8mm rope
Insignia:
Yes
Leech Line:
4mm Dacron line
Sail Ties:
Yes, 3 x 2.4 mt ties
Reef Cleat:
2 x 241 Alum.
Bag Type:
Drawstring type “B”
Reef Hts. %
Reef 1
14.5%
Area:
19.28
Reef 2
33.5%
Area:
12.56
Luff Slides:
15- 661A Seldon slides
Foot Tape:
2" tape
Reefing slots:
None
Reef eyes:
7 # 3 eyelets
Mast Section:
Z-Spar: Z 501
Boom Section:
Z-Spar: Z 360
Tack and Clew Cutback Details:
A: 50 B: 000 C: 280 D: 000 E: 25 F: 280 G: 85
Drawing Information
Drawing
331-clm1
Drawn By:
Bob
Date:
6-6--01
Rev:
08071332-R0
 
Last edited:
Feb 21, 2010
330
Beneteau 31 016 St-Lawrence river
Isn’t each one on its own sheave? How will that work?
There are separate sheaves... the lines are easy to reach at each end: the rear is completely open, the forward end is a bit more difficult because of the joint but can also be worked by pushing the boom to starboard (both sheaves are on the port side). All other methods are OK it's just that all is needed here is a piece of tape, and possibly 40 meters of reefing line. Were it not on a boat this would be a five minute job; on a boat maybe a half hour.
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
There are separate sheaves... the lines are easy to reach at each end: the rear is completely open, the forward end is a bit more difficult because of the joint but can also be worked by pushing the boom to starboard (both sheaves are on the port side). All other methods are OK it's just that all is needed here is a piece of tape, and possibly 40 meters of reefing line. Were it not on a boat this would be a five minute job; on a boat maybe a half hour.
Gotcha. On the 367 and 260 booms, the lines are not accessible on the mast end after they go over the sheave.
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
Until you get the time to run #2 reef line, lower sail. Time the reef line through the #2 sail reef point and then proceed. You really are only using one of the reef points at any one time. The goose neck some times has only one hook point.
Once connected you raise the sail to set the reef.
Wow - in the conditions and sea state when I’d expect to need a second reef, I would never want to have to go through that routine.
 
Oct 22, 2014
20,995
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
I would never want to have to go through that routine.
Neither would I. But you do what you have to do if your not rigged correctly for the possible conditions. Another reason to Reef Early.
Much better to prepare the rig for as many possible options as you can perceive. Better to have it ready than to need it.
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
Neither would I. But you do what you have to do if your not rigged correctly for the possible conditions. Another reason to Reef Early.
Much better to prepare the rig for as many possible options as you can perceive. Better to have it ready than to need it.
Ah, I didn't see you said 'UNTIL'. ;^)
 

Gunni

.
Mar 16, 2010
5,937
Beneteau 411 Oceanis Annapolis
The Z-Spar two line reef system does NOT have a goose-neck hook, or a related sail cringle to do what you are talking about to set a second reef. A round-section batten rod, wire snake or similar can be used to move the bitter end of the reefing line from the boom end to the gooseneck sheave where it routes up to the sail cheek block and back down eventually to the cockpit. Pretty simple operation.