New sail configuration
- Thread starter Ken Cross
- Start date
Thanks. I'm afraid I always disappointed Mr. Stout in Geometry and again in Pre-calc.True. Shown in the dwg in Reply #10. Saved you the work!
You're welcome. Your description was very good.Thanks. I'm afraid I always disappointed Mr. Stout in Geometry and again in Pre-calc.
Re: math --- darn, you shoulda hung in there til calculus.
My mind is still reeling from the concept of "the rate of change of the rate of change." Velocity and acceleration come to mind? 
A headsail's neutral jib lead angle... where there tension on leech and foot are the same.... is achieved by bisecting the clew (angle)..... or... by extending a line from a mid point on the luff through the clew to the deck. The LP of a sail .... especially on a "deck sweeper" type headsail with a very low clew... will be considerably different than the bisecting line for lead placement. The exception is if the leech and foot are the same length.... the sail becomes an isosceles triangle... where the LP (height) would bisect the clew...unfortunately making the sail look like a pennant.
Note.... FYI, the term "sheeting angle" is most often used to describe the HORIZONAL angle between the boat's centerline and a line drawn from the lead block to the stem head. A barber hauler, for instance, is used to change the sheeting angle of the headsail by moving it inboard.... or outboard. While moving the jib car forward or backward will change the lead block angle.... but not the sheeting angle. Hope this helps.
Note.... FYI, the term "sheeting angle" is most often used to describe the HORIZONAL angle between the boat's centerline and a line drawn from the lead block to the stem head. A barber hauler, for instance, is used to change the sheeting angle of the headsail by moving it inboard.... or outboard. While moving the jib car forward or backward will change the lead block angle.... but not the sheeting angle. Hope this helps.
We replaced our sails two seasons ago - they were original to the boat from 1983! Still serviceable but pretty stretched. As others have noted there was a significant difference in the way the boat handles. Even before we replaced the sails, I had the mainsail recut to be loose-footed a few years earlier. This is a change I would do again in a heartbeat, and would recommend. When we had the new genoa cut, I had the clew raised to provide better visibility. Our situation differs from yours in that we have a masthead rig with a high aspect main and 142% genoa, but I think you would benefit from these options as well.
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Ken,
I bought new sails two years ago and did everything you are considering - genoa with raised tack to clear the pulpit rail and improve visibility, luff foam, sunbrella UV cover; loose footed main sail with two reef points. My old sails were pretty stretched out, so it was a big improvement in sailing performance. The luff foam in the genoa makes a big difference in reefed sail shape. Mine is a 150, so I do often reef. I also had them add draft stripes and reef markers at the 135 and 115 points. You'll like the improved visibility provided by the raised genoa tack. It's safer and just less stress.
I bought new sails two years ago and did everything you are considering - genoa with raised tack to clear the pulpit rail and improve visibility, luff foam, sunbrella UV cover; loose footed main sail with two reef points. My old sails were pretty stretched out, so it was a big improvement in sailing performance. The luff foam in the genoa makes a big difference in reefed sail shape. Mine is a 150, so I do often reef. I also had them add draft stripes and reef markers at the 135 and 115 points. You'll like the improved visibility provided by the raised genoa tack. It's safer and just less stress.
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Hold on a minute Guys,
Though you all are correct with the math, and comments about sheeting angles, weather helm, sail area, etc. you are just chasing your tails. To say to the OP don't do it based on these presented "facts" would also be saying to everyone with hank on jibs to never switch to a #2, #3, or God forbid, a #4 jib; or to us roller furler types to never partially furl. Of course we reef when necessary, and re-trim to correct the balance in every way we can. This also demonstrated by the respondents who have made changes to their sails.
Also, if the OP's original head sail is baggy and he gets a slightly smaller sail that is cut properly and trim-able he will most likely see an increase in performance over his previous result. Not his max performance, true; but an increase over his previous experience.
Make sense?
Dennis
Though you all are correct with the math, and comments about sheeting angles, weather helm, sail area, etc. you are just chasing your tails. To say to the OP don't do it based on these presented "facts" would also be saying to everyone with hank on jibs to never switch to a #2, #3, or God forbid, a #4 jib; or to us roller furler types to never partially furl. Of course we reef when necessary, and re-trim to correct the balance in every way we can. This also demonstrated by the respondents who have made changes to their sails.
Also, if the OP's original head sail is baggy and he gets a slightly smaller sail that is cut properly and trim-able he will most likely see an increase in performance over his previous result. Not his max performance, true; but an increase over his previous experience.
Make sense?
Dennis
I think the only absolute recommendation is that he must put a UV screen on the furling jib. Of course he could chose to omit the UV strip and buy a new sail every year or two.
The OP is going to spend several thousand dollars on new sails and he is considering changing the configuration of the sails. As I read the original post, he is asking what questions should I be asking and are my plans good plans. In various ways the posts here have tried to provide answers to those questions, some practical born of experience, some more theoretical.
It seems the OP wants to be an informed consumer after reading these posts he is considerably more well informed and is more likely to make a decision that he will be happy with over the long run.
Thanks Diochnr you understand my reason for the post. I think I'm possibly splitting hairs, but if I was making giant errors I would now be reeducated and rethinking the plan. So far I'm just learning what I can before committing real boat units to the project. Fortunately I have some time before spring.
Ken
Ken