Thanks for all the info. yes, I plan on revamping the vent situation with one going to port in the original location and one to starboard. I'm thinking for a relatively small tank 2 x 3/4" vents should be a vast improvement.
New O'day 28 Owner with lots of questions
- Thread starter Clutch Cargo
- Start date
Although it would have been better to have one vent thru-hull on the stbrd. side and one on port side, I chose the easier route and installed both on the one side.
One forward and one aft to take advantage of the pressure differential while under way. Maybe a bit of a diff. when the wind blows at the dock. It would have looked like a snake with a broken back if I'd run one vent line over the ceiling. I couldn't run it under the floor boards as I would have formed a liquid trap for sure.
As it is, if there's been no wind for a few days, there's a bit of an H2S smell for a short while and then the smell is gone, even when the head is flushed. There's no smell even when we're away for several months at a time as long as we don't remain without wind for a few days or so.
One forward and one aft to take advantage of the pressure differential while under way. Maybe a bit of a diff. when the wind blows at the dock. It would have looked like a snake with a broken back if I'd run one vent line over the ceiling. I couldn't run it under the floor boards as I would have formed a liquid trap for sure.
As it is, if there's been no wind for a few days, there's a bit of an H2S smell for a short while and then the smell is gone, even when the head is flushed. There's no smell even when we're away for several months at a time as long as we don't remain without wind for a few days or so.
Thanks for the info Ralph. In my situation, I can run the forward vent to its original port location and the after one over to the stbd side to a spot inside the medicine chest in the head.
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OK, so I was at the boat today and the work on the underside of the deck/fwd chainplates is going well. I'll post some pics tomorrow.
As promised, here are images from the underside of the deck where the FWD lower chainplates have been removed. As much of the balsa core has been removed and will be replaced with Coosa board. The chainplates themselves are pretty robust so instead of reinventing the wheel, we are going to reuse them. However, instead of being glassed in, they will be thru-bolted to SS plates on the deck. This way, if they ever leak again, A- the Coosa won't rot, and B- I can access, unbolt and reseal. The only tricky part is coming up with laminating schedule that will result in the padeye protruding the proper length through the deck. I will post more images once it is done.
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Looking good. In terms of laminate thickness you can use the table at Determining Laminate Thickness to get a pottery good idea.
Same here. Got my '85 in 1995 and it was a really awful stinker. Tried a bunch of fixes, but only replacing all the hoses (big PIA as I recall) with upgraded took care of the issue and never a problem since.
I do not touch that raw water seacock, but leave open all year round. I check to be sure there are no issues after launching of course, by checking for leaks everywhere you would expect. I winterize with the glycol by pulling the hose off the water pump and attaching a temporary one to pull the glycol out of the gallon jug. A lot quicker and easier than trying to access at the raw water seacock which is how I first did it. When you pull that hose off the water pump end, any residual water is going to flow out that hose anyway if the boat is out of the water.
Welcome to the forum, I am in the same "boat" as they say as you. I also bought a 1985 28 this winter, my first sailboat. Now that winter is in our rear view mirror, I will be going through her and begin to tackle the list of things to do. I am looking forward to going through the comments above and see how many will apply to me as well.
Why didn't you make repairs from the deck down , of course there would be cosmetic issues to deal with
WK, you answered your own question. When this is done, it will look like it has always been there.
Clutch do you have any photos of the chainplate ? I will probably start work on the boat in a couple of weeks and wnated to backup with a SS plate but but sure what the glassed in end looked like
OK, sorry for the delays. This working for a living interferes with the important things in life, LOL. I'll make this in a couple of posts as I have a lot of images to share. I must tell you that the guys at Yankee Marina did an absolutely fantastic job. If you look at the shots I posted before, you can see how clean they got the underside. Wait till you see the finished product.
First, the Chain Plates. They are very robust so it was a no-brainer to use them again. The big diffrence is that they are not removable from the underside. We added 4 holes so they can be screwed in place prior to bedding. They are also marked port and starboard.
First, the Chain Plates. They are very robust so it was a no-brainer to use them again. The big diffrence is that they are not removable from the underside. We added 4 holes so they can be screwed in place prior to bedding. They are also marked port and starboard.
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For those of you who had questions about the core, attached find a closeup. It is just a little over 1" thick. I have asked the Service Manager for the layup schedule and will pass it on as soon as I get it. I think it consisted of two layers of double bias cloth, a layer of Coosa and then two more layers of the double bias.
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The core shot gives you an idea of the finished repair. They feathered filler into the underdeck liner to make it seamless and painted it with tinted, waxed gelcoat. The result is something that looks like it has always been there. Unfortunately, when they were cutting the new slot on the starboard side, the tool slipped and scratched the gelcoat, but no one will see it. I liken the who process to getting a new septic system - when it's done, only you and the guys who did it will appreciate it.
