New O'day 28 Owner with lots of questions

Aug 7, 2021
68
O'day 28 Casco Bay
Hello Everyone,
As the title implies, I have a 1985 O'day 28. This sequence number is 624 indicating that 20 more were built before production ended. The boat is on the hard and I've got a couple of major projects going on. The big one is to replace the soft core under the forward port & starboard stays. Another owner posted images of the area in the head above the hanging locker and the medicine chest and mine is similar. I've done all of the preliminary surgery, i.e. getting all of the wood and shelves out of the way. my other projects include properly wiring the main electric bilge pump and adding a Seaflo dry bilge system. However, the boat is afflicted with "old boat smell" and I need to address it. I originally was just going to replace all of the hoses, but the tank is looking pretty bad. So this brings up my first question.

1. The vessel is equipped with a holding tank of approx. 13 gallons capacity. The dimensions are 9"W x 11.5" H x 29.5" L. is this the original tank? I would also be curious to know if anyone has replaced their tank and if so, what did you use?

2. I have seen a number of videos showing various items being attached to the upper inboard bulkhead of the quarter berth. examination indicates that this bulkhead is hollow and that there is a gap between it and the cockpit bulkhead. Is this correct? has anyone tried to affix something to it? Any idea of the width of the gap?

3. Has anyone tried to address the issue of easily getting at the engine raw water inlet valve?

Well, that is all for now. Thanks in advance for any insight or advice.
 
Jan 7, 2011
4,796
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
Welcome aboard Clutch!

It is hard to say if your holding tank is original. My 1988 O’Day 322 has a 19 gallon holding tank, but I don’t have the exact measurements. Do you have a photo? That may give us some clues. But regardless, assuming it is a plastic tank, it should last a long time. My 1988 is doing fine. But I did pull it out once, cleaned it and rebed the fittings. Then I replaced the hoses.

On the bulkhead, I can’t say for sure. Again, photos are very helpful so we can ID what location you are talking about. How much weight are you trying to hang there? What sort of attachment?

On your third question, what engine do you have in your 28? I have a Yanmar 2GM20F and access to the engine water pump is tight. I replaced my water hose between the strainer and the pump today, coincidentally. Getting the hose clamps on the pump inlet took a little fiddling around to get it high enough on the hose Barb to get 2 clamps in place. On the 2GM20F, you can remove the pump from the engine (2 bolts), and that may make it easier to get to the inlet. I have remove the pump to change the impeller :(

Good luck with you new boat and welcome to the forum.


Greg
 
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May 17, 2004
5,091
Beneteau Oceanis 37 Havre de Grace
2. I have seen a number of videos showing various items being attached to the upper inboard bulkhead of the quarter berth. examination indicates that this bulkhead is hollow and that there is a gap between it and the cockpit bulkhead. Is this correct? has anyone tried to affix something to it? Any idea of the width of the gap?
Do you mean the upper starboard side, where the teak box is:
1646538038237.png


If so there's an inner liner there, then a gap of maybe 1/2" if I remember right, then the outside bulkhead. The instruments were in that box on ours.

3. Has anyone tried to address the issue of easily getting at the engine raw water inlet valve?
We got pretty good at using the butt end of the boat hook to lever the seacock open and closed. I don't know if there's a better way.
 
Jan 19, 2010
1,172
Catalina 34 Casco Bay
Congrats on your boat.. We had an O'28 for 15 years. A boat on which our son proposed to his bride with both families watching....
Ok. the head holding tank on our boat was mounted under the V-berth. It came with a direct discharge macerating pump, y-valve for vac discharge. The vac line was not the best configuration, running back from the tank to behind the head and then rising to the deck flange,

Raw water intake valve. One of my first replacements. When this project was under taken, everything was replaced. The exterior strainer was replaced. On the inboard side an elbow was with quarter turn valve and hose barb was added. New hose to raw pump. Now for the fun part.... That valve is way down there... SO, I made an extension of PVC ( won't rust and weighs nothing pipe). inch and a half pipe. Glue on a coupler that has female thread. Get a copper thread to sweat coupler. On the sweat end of the copper, cut 2 lines toward the PVC that are just a tad wider than the handle of the quarter turn valve,. Bend what becomes a tab back into the copper. Lower this onto the valve on the open position. Mark the top of the PVC pipe about 2 or 3 inches above the the open lazarette's edge. Now cut the PVC at this level.. Final step... add a PVC " T" to the top of the pipe. Orient it fore and aft so that it aligns with the open valve.. Mark it, glue it....

T fore and aft... valve open... T athwartship...valve closed.

This works slick. PM me if you need amplification
 
Aug 7, 2021
68
O'day 28 Casco Bay
Thanks for all the responses!! I have a few images, but am headed back to the boat today and will get some additional ones.

The tank dimensions are 9" W, 11.5 H, 29.5 L. This translates into just over 13 gallons. Not sure how it was put in, perhaps turned sideways. There is no inspection port. There are two vents "teed" into one and a dip in the middle collects condensate. this is what leads me to believe that it may have been added later as I am not sure why a builder would use two vents.

Davidsailor26, yes I do mean the area you referenced and it extends back into the quarter berth. This is the area I am most interested in. I have no plans as of yet, but I have been watching a YouTube channel created by a husband & wife who own an '85 Oday 28. He has mounted his batter monitors there, as well as his shore power battery charger. I'm also curious as to what one uses for fastening. I was thinking of investing in a SS screw rivet assortment.

Regarding the raw water inlet valve, the vessel has been re-powered with a Yanmar 3GM30 (one of the reasons why I bought it), so it is pretty tight down there. I have an idea as to how to make this easier and will share when it is completed. Speaking of the engine compartment, because it is so tight, it is pretty dirty in there. Any suggestions regarding cleaning in such tight spaces? The only thing I could think of was to spray some de-greaser and then try to clean/wipe off with a paper towel taped to a long paint stirrer or equivalent.
 
Jan 19, 2010
1,172
Catalina 34 Casco Bay
Thanks for all the responses!! I have a few images, but am headed back to the boat today and will get some additional ones.

The tank dimensions are 9" W, 11.5 H, 29.5 L. This translates into just over 13 gallons. Not sure how it was put in, perhaps turned sideways. There is no inspection port. There are two vents "teed" into one and a dip in the middle collects condensate. this is what leads me to believe that it may have been added later as I am not sure why a builder would use two vents.

Davidsailor26, yes I do mean the area you referenced and it extends back into the quarter berth. This is the area I am most interested in. I have no plans as of yet, but I have been watching a YouTube channel created by a husband & wife who own an '85 Oday 28. He has mounted his batter monitors there, as well as his shore power battery charger. I'm also curious as to what one uses for fastening. I was thinking of investing in a SS screw rivet assortment.

Regarding the raw water inlet valve, the vessel has been re-powered with a Yanmar 3GM30 (one of the reasons why I bought it), so it is pretty tight down there. I have an idea as to how to make this easier and will share when it is completed. Speaking of the engine compartment, because it is so tight, it is pretty dirty in there. Any suggestions regarding cleaning in such tight spaces? The only thing I could think of was to spray some de-greaser and then try to clean/wipe off with a paper towel taped to a long paint stirrer or equivalent.
I'm a Casco Bay boat as well and a former 1985 O"28 owner.. Let me know if you'd like another set of eyes...
 
Aug 7, 2021
68
O'day 28 Casco Bay
RE: "I'm a Casco Bay boat as well and a former 1985 O"28 owner.. Let me know if you'd like another set of eyes... "

Much appreciated! PM on the way.
 
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Aug 7, 2021
68
O'day 28 Casco Bay
As promised, here are some additional images of the holding tank, etc. I did some more digging in the documentation that came with the vessel and found a hand-drawn diagram in the O'day owner's manual. It was done by O'day, not a previous owner as it is dated. I also appears that the tank is original and also I think the major source of the odor is the fact that the vent hose is original!! I say this because the vent layout is rather unique. the tank has two vents (fore and aft) and they are "teed" together and then lead to the through-hull vent in the port side hanging locker. The "tee" is located such that it is very difficult to access and the it is not possible to get the hose clamp off of the forward fitting without cutting a hole in the v-berth. Given that there is no hole, I think it is safe to assume that it has never been changed. The hose was at one time clear but is now brown and quite tacky.

I've been doing a lot of reading about holding tanks and the advantages of cross ventilation. Therefore, I've decided to cut an access hole in the v-berth and not only replace the hose, buy route the forward vent to the port side and route the aft one to a new vent I will install on the starboard side mirroring the port. Yes, they are only .5" diameter hoses, but I figure anything will be an improvement. Any suggestions as to what to use as a hatch?

You will note that the hanging locker face is gone because I need access to repair the soft core under the P/S forward stays. I also plan on removing that grody carpeting on the bulkhead.
 

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Apex

.
Jun 19, 2013
1,198
C&C 30 Elk Rapids
I put in a Ronco B184. 23gal, and still had room for the tote in the top. Of course that meant cutting open the liner to fit in, and built a custom shelf for it to fit on.

As for the engine water intake, a PO attached a long rod to the handle of the shut-off. open the lazarette, and it was right there, no bending over needed. The valve handle should have a hold in teh end. 1/4" bronze rod with 90deg bend, and tadaa
 
Aug 7, 2021
68
O'day 28 Casco Bay
As for the engine water intake, a PO attached a long rod to the handle of the shut-off. open the lazarette, and it was right there, no bending over needed. The valve handle should have a hold in teh end. 1/4" bronze rod with 90deg bend, and tadaa
[/QUOTE]

Working on something similar. Will post when completed.
 
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Aug 29, 2021
8
O Day 28 Somers Point,New Jersey
I also have a 28 1986 and have almost finished replacing all the sanitation hoses and vent . Once I replaced the hoses the smell went away so the holding tank wasn't the issue . I only replaced the vent hose from the rear tank fitting because as you mentioned getting to the forward tank fitting is almost impossible.
 
Aug 7, 2021
68
O'day 28 Casco Bay
Waterking2, thanks for the post. This is good to know. May I ask what brand of hose you used? Particularly for the vent. This seems to be a large topic of discussion across the interweb because the manufacturers of marine sanitation hose do not make smaller diameters (e.g. 5/8") that could be used on tanks such as ours. I am planning on cutting an access port so that I can change and perhaps enlarge the vent hose to 3/4" I will post images of how I did it.
 

Apex

.
Jun 19, 2013
1,198
C&C 30 Elk Rapids
@clutch: get and read Peggie's book on sanitation systems. I used the following for Ronco tank in the bow. Worked out great. Bigger is better for the holding tank vent.
1647184474176.png
 
Aug 7, 2021
68
O'day 28 Casco Bay
Thanks for the information, I will. Secondly, did you use any lubricant to help with the hose installation?
 
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Apex

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Jun 19, 2013
1,198
C&C 30 Elk Rapids
no lube needed. warm hoses help. Use a hair dryer if needed. Heat guns can get too hot, melting so careful with that tool.
 
Aug 29, 2021
8
O Day 28 Somers Point,New Jersey
I found lubricant helpful when I replaced the hoses that are next to each other behind the head
 
Jan 4, 2006
6,513
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
Secondly, did you use any lubricant to help with the hose installation?
I never touch a hose unless I've got a hair drier in one hand and some Super Lube in the other. You couldn't pull them apart with a tractor once the hose clamps are tightened.
 
Jan 4, 2006
6,513
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
1. The vessel is equipped with a holding tank of approx. 13 gallons capacity.
If it's plastic, it's good for another 37 years minimum. If it's aluminum, over the side regardless of its age.

Yes, they are only .5" diameter hoses, but I figure anything will be an improvement.
Even if the tank connections are only 1/2" dia. use a larger size hose such as 3/4" or even 1". The larger the vent hose, the less resistance to air flow (due to friction) through the hose. The 1/2" connections on the tank are what they are.

There are two vents "teed" into one and a dip in the middle collects condensate.
YIPES, that does less than no good at all. You're correct in splitting the vents and running them separately. I went the same route and ran them both uphill (hidden in walls) as far as they would go and then downhill to their respective thru-hull vents. And of course, don't install a high rise at the thru hull as it only traps any condensate.