New companion way doors

rgranger · Jan 17, 2015

woodster said:
watch the installation video a couple of times it is really informative if you read between the lines ...the order form for measuring your opening is really help full with the information they ask for you can almost make the doors by that info ...the trapezoid will make you a little cross eyed when laying it out lol

one more thing when you make the center styles in order for the to look the same on the out side one has to be larger than the other one...example if you want the styles to be 2 and 1/2 inches then the other one has to be 3 inches this will allow for the over lap in he middle when closed the 3 in side will show full width on the inside of the boat and both 2 and one half inch sides will show on the outside this will allow you to have a captured side using the over lay...if you have questions feel free to ask me

Thanks Woodster... I have a solid fiberglass companionway door right now. I slide the entire thing out and put it in a cockpit locker. It takes up some room. But it should also serve nicely as a template. I've been thinking I'd like to build doors on slats that slide into the same groove that my current door uses. I'd put the hinge on the slat. That way I could open and close it like a regular door... but I could also slide the entire thing out and stow it... say if I wanted to put in a screen instead on a hot night.

But right now I have a 2-do list that includes fixing the goosneck, removing the roller furler and going back to hanked on ... (anyone want a harken roller furler with sail

) and reinstalling the fuel tank. I took it out and "polished" it. And redoing ALL of the electrical. The boat is a 1973 and I'm quite certain that all of the P.O.'s followed the forbidden practice of leaving orphaned wires in place and simply running a new one when something shorted. My bilge has a spaghetti of wires in it. Drives me nuts... I'm actually surprised that everthing seems to work but scared that when something does fail... I'll have no way to run it down. So I'm going to pull it all out and start it over with color codes and proper labels. I'm not half bad with electric systems and should be able to do that in a long weekend.

Then I'll build a companionway door. I've filed your photos in my "mods" folder for future reference... :dance:

Chris Patterson · Jan 18, 2015

Woodster, I would be damn proud of that job. Seriously, I don't think I have ever seen a nicer DIY job on hatch boards.

Chris Patterson · Jan 18, 2015

Me? Just me now......I would put ten coats of varnish on them. But I'm a varnish addict. Don't rush it now. You've already been patient and turned out some FINE looking doors, so I would bide my time with the aforementioned. This time of year where you are, 48 hours between coats if you can. Inside and heated, 24.......but I like 48..

Fred Villiard · Jan 18, 2015

Just one thought about using the slide in, when you open the doors they will just slip out. I did a mock up out of 1/4 ply and it fell out when i opened the door duh. Back to the drawing board.

Ken Cross · Jan 18, 2015

woodster said:
thanks...yes i do if you go to Zarcor site and read there measuring instructions and also watch there video on instillation it will be come very clear how to make them (that cuts out a lot of self engineering on your part)...i will say this there are a lot of variables in making a trapezoid shape so go slow and double check twice before you cut anything or you will waste material and at 20 bucks a board ft that gets tough ...also make sure you have sharp router bits and saw blades as teak is very hard on tools don't know weather it is the pepper smell or silica content but it is hard on them

Yep, I did my own engineering and messed up. The opening on our boat isn't symmetrical.
I managed to save it with some scrap teak, but I didn't know about any video. Here is a pic:

New companion way doors

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Attachments

.