New Cabin Table

[Roger Long]

My Dickenson heater installation will require a new cabin table since the old table hinged down from the shelves that have been removed. Although it was nice and big, dinner for six wasn't crowded, I won't miss it. Leaving it down in a seaway was always a worry since someone catching themselves against it could pull the hinges right apart leaving me with two big boards to figure out how to stow. Having it fold up against the shelves made them inconvenient to use.

For the new table, I am going to install a 1" S.S. stanchion between the cabin sole and the overhead with a 7/8" rail running forward from that which will be attached to the side of the head longitudinal bulkhead. The side bunks are not the same distance off centerline so it was one of those thing that worked out just right. I didn't want to compromise the integrity of the mast support by drilling or welding it and also had visions of someone falling against the table putting a side load on the column just as it was being maximally stressed in a knockdown, just when someone is most likely to fall.

The table support rail will also serve as a guard rail to keep anyone from being thrown hard against the hot cabin heater and as an additional handrail. There are already full height stanchions at the end of each side berth. The interior may not be quite as spacious as before but it is going to be very, very secure for moving about in heavy weather and anyone thrown out of a bunk in a knockdown is not going to go nearly as far as before.

 

[Ross]

The primary feature of drop leaf tables is the pivoting supports underneath. There are router bits that carve the joint edges and strong hinges to support the leaves but the pivoting arm beneath the leaves is the key to the success of the system.

 

[Roger Long]

the pivoting arm beneath the leaves is the key to the success of the system.

Table leaves will be supported on the removable stanchions I have currently. They will go under about the middle of the leaves which is a bit of a pain from the leg standpoint but is quick and easy and gives good support. They have nice heavy, sharp, rectangular flanges at the table end and are just the right heft and length for repelling boarders so I want to find a use for them to justify keeping them on board

The table design and hinges have been revised since you may have seen it so that the leaves can be raised 30 degrees and to be more compact. This gives the option of support from overhead chains so that it can be angled for a long tack. It would be a simple matter to make this a swinging table but they usually don't work out well on small craft.

I might add pivoting supports another year but I've got enough on my plate this spring.

 

[Roger Long]

I'm bumping this because I updated the image in the OP.

 

[Ross]

I like the versatility allowed by shifting the leaves.

 

[DannyS]

I like it. One of my favorite things is to see how everyone modifies their boat to make it useful to them and the way they intend to use it. I think we all gain by seeing these modifications. Keep us posted with photos, before and after and in progress.
What are you going to use for your individual hinges where the leaves attach to the horizontal tube? I'm sure you've thought about this but how will they lock in place while both in use and in stowed position?

 

[Snotter]

Roger, I'm looking forward to detailed pictures when the project is completed. Nice design and nice animation.

 

[Maine Sail]

Roger,

If you have the width the table can also serve as some storage space. Just a thought...

 

[Roger Long]

What are you going to use for your individual hinges where the leaves attach to the horizontal tube?

Dead simple. Each of the four hinges is a piece of 1" x .064 brass stock from the ubiquitous hardware store display bent around a piece of the 1" tube. A 1" wood block will go inside and be secured with a few short brass screws. The whole assembly will then be screwed to the table leaves after threading the hinges on the tube.

I haven't worked out the exact securing method yet but it will probably be a simple hook on the aft bottom edge of one leaf and an eyestrap on the other. A short loop of shock cord will hold the leaves together when the table is pulled aft just enough for the shock cord to be aft of the stanchion which will keep the table leaves from swinging with heel.

 

[Roger Long]

Just a thought.

And a good one it is, too. However, mine is quite a narrow boat and every inch is precious so I'm striving for minimum intrusion on foot and passage space. The hinge design has squeezed the last possible 1/16" out of the space taken up by the stowed table.

 

[DannyS]

Here's a thought...if you extended the 1" wood filler the width of the table leafs and configured a hole and dowel mechanism in the adjacent wood filler pieces, that would keep the table from swinging when in the stowed position. Then you'd just need to configure something to keep it from sliding fore and aft. I would think you'd want to use a couple of hole/dowels per filler piece since the shear load on the dowel could be quite high as the boat heels over. Perhaps the dowel could be a brass pin.
Make sense?

 

[Roger Long]

Make sense?

Yes, but think how elegant the simple loop of shock cord between the two table leaves is. The tension prevents rattle, the shock cord is on the aft side of the stanchion so it also keeps the table from sliding forward. If you fall or lunge forward against the folded leaves, there will be some give so the bruise on your hip will be smaller.

 

[sailingdog]

I'd point out that if you're going to do the in-table storage compartment ala MaineSail, that you can make the insert serve several purposes. On my friend's boat, we drilled holes that allowed the insert to be flipped over and used to hold the condiment shakers and cups in the center of the table when we were eating.. Flip it back over to have a flush table insert.

 

[DannyS]

I can't argue with a guy who knows his balance point and tendency for bruising!