Need to replace the wood outboard mount for H23.5

[Adana]

Yesterday while backing into my slip after a sail out of Pensacola, my OB didn't lock down when I put it into reverse (I believe this a warranty worthy concern that I will address and not the point of my question). Fortunately the force was minimal and didn't pull the OB up into the cockpit.... But it did manage to split the OB mount bolted onto the transom along the grain where one of the bolts goes througb. I'm wondering if anybody has replaced theirs with anything other than teak. Specifically, I'm considering the recycled composite lumber being used in decks and park benches. The dimensions of the current piece are 17.5"x5.5"x2" Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[isaksp00]

I have a mount that swings up and down on my H23. The wood mount is made of plywood laminated into maybe a 1.5 to 2 inch thick piece. I would think the composite would work. If not, you could try to find plywood that thick, or perhaps take something like 1/2 inch exterior grade and lay up about 3 or 4 pieces clamped well with polyurethane glue. I'd epoxy or at least coat it well.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

try the forum store to see if they have a replacement board and would suggest delrin vs. wood.

 

[Rick Webb]

Before You Replace It

I would try to glue/epoxy it back together.

I think it is symmetrical so you could flip it and get the crack on the bottom where there is less stress.

If that does not work out there is a lumber mill in Holt that sells cedar, they would be happy to cut you off a piece the correct size. That would hold up pretty well I think.

 

[tallswede]

Re: Before You Replace It

I don't think I would use cedar. While it is rot resistant and light, it is prone to crack easily (brittle). I would use either the laminated and epoxy encapsulated plywood, oak, or treated pine well dried and stained/varnished. That's just me though.

 

[Mike Culik]

Re: Before You Replace It

Composite replacements are available from Garelick

 

[JamesO256]

If your going to make one, go by a mobil home supply, and get a wooden pad, for set the peers on. They last for years in very damp area. They are more resin,

 

[Adana]

I want to thank everyone for their suggestions. I decided to epoxy the original piece back together and will secure it back this afternoon. I'm not certain this will be a long-term solution, but will get me sailing this weekend, for sure! I considered Crazy Dave's delrin suggestion but couldn't find anything thicker than 1" which seems too thin for this application. I considered ipe (also called Brazilian walnut) as well. There is a local lumber company that that can sell me a 7' 2x6 of ipe for $100. That's more than I really want to spend right now (and 4 times more wood than I need), but if anyone else in the Pensacola or surrounding area has considered making this replacement, I'd be happy to have one cut into pieces and share the expense. It appears this would also work for the H240 and H260, though I can't be sure of the dimensions for those vessels. Thanks again for the ideas.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Adane, next time you are looking for delrin, check out West Marine or better yet, contact the forum store as they might be able to help.

Another source is check with service yards thru their scrap which they will be glad to sell cheap. Contact me any time for help. You can help me as I hope snowmeganon is over. Over 60 inches in 3 weeks.

 

[Mike Culik]

Unbelievable.......you can buy a new Garelick pad from Amazon for $82.52!

Your boat, your choice.....hope you're able to keep your expensive motor on.

 

[Adana]

Unfortunately, the prefab garelick pads I see available on Amazon are not the right size to fit in the location vacated by the cracked teak. It needs to bolt directly to the hull to take advantage of the embedded backing plates and requires dimensions of 2" (though arguably this could be slightly different as long as it's thick enough to support the OB) x 6" (height) x 17.5" (width). I had already checked with West marine and the guys here at the store. Neither had anything they felt would be suitable or suggestions for where I might look other than a lumber yard.

 

[isaksp00]

I personally would not trust the glued together broken pieces, at least, long term. I'd take four pieces of 1/2 in plywood (marine or exterior grade if available), each 6 by 17.5, and epoxy them into a 2 in thick mount, then seal the outside with epoxy - like West marine.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Adana,

I use to take the delrin and cut it into the same sizes. I learned it you sanded the flat surfaces, troweled Gorilla Glue over both flat surfaces, I use to put them together with boards on the outside and clamped down all over on the boards tight. Then let dry for 24 hours and it worked holding the two pieces together. I would help if bolted together where it would not interfere with the motor brackets in addition to being bolted on the bracket. fYI

 

[Rick Webb]

I Would Not Think Twice About Gluing it Back Together

I would however take two additional steps:

1. Drive in two stainless steel screws #12 about 2" long ((after predrilling the holes of course) to help hold the broken pieces together.

2. Add some large fender washers to the bolts that hold the board to the transom. That will help distribute the load.

As mentioned earlier flip it over so the broken piece is on the bottom

Send us a picture when it is all fixed

 

[SFKjeld]

Just parked my new to me 23.5 in the Alameda Marina. Zero security in this boat yard. I've lost 2 outboards from my Potter 15 in the last 2 years. When I asked the seller about securing the motor on the 23.5, he said it was virtually impossible to get off the transom. Which of course, I don't believe. How are folks securing the motor?

 

[Rick Webb]

Security Cable

I swaged loops to either side of a cable at West Marine. Ran the cable through the steering tube on the outboard bracket and around the board the motor is hung on then a padlock through the ears on the sway pads and the cable. All they need is bolt cutters but at least they would have to work at it.

I used to see security bolts that need a special socket to remove but I have not seen those in a while, but I have not looked either.

 

[SFKjeld]

Cable?

My last motor was stolen by cutting a cable lock and the paddle lock holding the motor onto the boat. Gonna need something more stout than a cable here.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

NO security, take the motor off and store it or better yet find another place to park the boat with security. Even though I had a fenced in lot with lights and cameras, that did not deter motors being stolen. After two gone, all boats being worked on had to remove their motors before it came on my lot. Remember anything can be taken.

 

[SFKjeld]

Thanks Dave. I am sure that is sage advice. What is your view of motors being stolen from slips? Bolt cutters and grinders will cut either way, but transferring a 120lb motor on the water seems a deterrent. I dunno. I am not gonna carry that motor back and forth to my home. Need another solution. Think hefty motorcycle chain lock and a slip.

 

[Rick Webb]

Paint it With Anti Theft Paint

The fluorescent pink stuff