Need source for boat plumbing parts

[Ralph Johnstone]

@Dr. D , can you please take a shot looking into the head from outside the head door. Try to show the location of the head (toilet) relative to the sink.

The condition of the area below your sink is incredible. I have maintained the condition of that area in my boat to as as new from when I received the boat and it doesn't look anything like yours. All bare, unfinished fiberglass.

I am losing sleep thinking of anything less than perfection going into your project. The cost of replacement hose is immaterial as it runs about $1/foot. I don't believe removing any hoses is necessary to rinse the lines to the head each time you leave.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Peggie: Please look at post #15. The sink drains above the waterline, so I can’t follow your recommendation.

In that case, a gallon jug of water is the only good solution. But instead of removing the head intake line from the thru-hull every time you want to rinse out the system, why not just install a 3/4" y-valve and a section of hose to stick into the water jug?

--Peggie

 

[Dr. D]

Peggie: Please look at post #15. The sink drains above the waterline, so I can’t follow your recommendation.

In that case, a gallon jug of water is the only good solution. But instead of removing the head intake line from the thru-hull every time you want to rinse out the system, why not just install a 3/4" y-valve and a section of hose to stick into the water jug?

--Peggie

Yeah, thinking about my solution again, it makes more sense to put in a Y-valve. The less hose clamps are disturbed the better.

 

[Stu Jackson]

@Dr. D

Isn't there another way to do it?

Abandon the above waterline sink drain. Close the thru hull.

T the sink drain into the head intake thru hull.

Done.

Open that thru hull to drain the sink and to flush the head. Close that thru hull and fill the sink to do the last flush of the day.

No Y valves or bottles of water required.

Good luck.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Sorry, Stu...not a good plan for a couple of reasons that have been previously posted: 1. it would make the head sink drain way too long...and 2. there'd be no way to prevent the toilet from pulling in at least some gray water. The soap scum etc would not be good for the toilet pump.

A gallon milk jug, a y-valve and short piece of hose is the best solution this time.

--Peggie

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

@Peggie Hall HeadMistress, might I be so bold as to propose a solution to address several of your concerns regarding hose runs.

Firstly,

1. it would make the head sink drain way too long

I have never experienced a sink backup and I have an eight foot run to the sink thru hull. The thru hull is not under the sink as with most installations but runs over to a collection of thru hulls :



Due to the three foot head of the sink over the thru hull, there is a loud sucking sound when the sink has almost drained showing a vacuum is being drawn.

I'm going to assume that as in most head installations, the toilet is close to the sink.

The following arrangement should greatly simplify the arrangement and eliminate getting grey water into the toilet pump. And last but not least, no milk jugs or open ended hoses left lying around.

With the head in normal operation:

#1 sink thru hull valve is open.
#2 valve is closed.
#3 toilet thru hull valve is open.
The head uses sea water for flushing.

To rinse out the hoses and toilet of all sea water:

- All valves are in the normal operating position.
- Rinse the sink and its drain hose with water to remove any soap scum.
- Close #1 sink thru hull valve and allow some water to build up in the sink.
- Open #2 valve to rinse out any soap scum out of the hose and out thru hull valve #3.
- Close #3 toilet thru hull valve and the sink will fill further.
- Pump potable water through the toilet.
All valves can now be returned to the normal operating position

The valve switch over is a little complicated but it eliminates any sink scum from entering the toilet pump. I think everything is pretty well rinsed before sending potable water to the toilet so I switch over all vales at once and so far, no problems with sink scum. We'll see what the future brings.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

might I be so bold as to propose a solution to address several of your concerns regarding hose runs.

They aren't my concerns:

The sink drain hose is too short to reach the intake hose except near the pump intake, so what goes into the sink goes through nearly the entire intake hose. Replacing the sink drain hose with a longer hose gets into the "too long of a drain hose" situation.

(italics mine)

--Peggie

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

They aren't my concerns:

Sorry about that ..................... to many he saids, that she saids, that he saids, etc, etc, etc. Hard to follow without a program.

@Peggie Hall HeadMistress, might I be so bold as to propose a solution to address several of your concerns regarding hose runs.

Let me re-phrase that to say, "might I be so bold as to propose a solution to address several concerns regarding hose runs ?"

 

[Dr. D]

@Dr. D , can you please take a shot looking into the head from outside the head door. Try to show the location of the head (toilet) relative to the sink.

As requested.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Thanks. As I suspected, your toilet is close enough to the head to easily run the sink drain over to the sea water intake of the toilet. As I mentioned above, my sink drain runs eight feet to its thru-hull and has no problems with free flow.

If you do choose to go this route, you may be able to route the tubing behind the wood panel depending on what's behind it. Your space for working under the sink is impressive and looks a lot better than the gauntlet I had to run to to install my collection of hoses.

 

[Dr. D]

Done!

Yeah, it is a big Y-valve, but it is easy to turn (a bit of arthritis in my hands makes some simple chores difficult).