Need new sails...sailmaker recommendations

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Jun 12, 2010
936
Oday 22 Orleans Marina, NOLA
I need new sails for my 22, and while I'm at it I'd like to add a headsail furler. In price comparing I found that the sail warehouse beats everyone, but often you get what you pay for.

I did a bunch of price/quality comparisons about a year ago and even got some quotes but I've since lost all that research.

So far this is my list:

D&R : Main, 135% genoa, CDI FF2 - $2608
SW : Main, 100% jib, CDI FF2 - $1509
SBO: Main, Jib, No Furler - $967*
FX: Main w/full battens, 135 Jib + furler - $1845

* Need to add furler @ $458 + change jib for furler, guesstimate $1600?

I currently have a 100% jib and would need to add track to fly a 135. (+$200)

So, sail warehouse yeah or nay?

What abount SBO's sail loft?

...and who makes the sails for the sail warehouse and SBO?

Other vendors I should look at?

Edit: Add FX Sails to the mix - prices seem pretty good and their website has a nice little calculator on it for sail options like reef points and battens.
 
May 31, 2004
858
Catalina 28 Branford
I went thru the same calcs when replacing my Oday 23 sails about five or six years ago. I too found that the internet sites were the least expensive. However, I decided to buy from a local loft. It cost about 30% more than the internet sites, but I know where my sails were made, and by whom. With the internet sites, all I knew was that my sails were going to be made in China or someplace else far, far away, and my only contact would be via email with the middleman. By buying local, I got:

the owner of the loft to come out to my boat, measure my mast, boom, etc., and talk to me about how I sailed and what I was looking for;

sell me a furler at his wholesale cost;

a local person I could call with questions about when my sails would be completed and if there were any issues/problems;

local help in setting up the furler for the first time; and

the owner came out to the boat to install the sails and then sail with me to show me how to get the best out of them.

And when it came time to have the sails serviced, I got a discount off their regular prices, quick turnaround, etc. In short, I think the cheapest price for the sails themselves is not always the best bargain. My two cents (adjusted for inflation): check out a couple of local lofts before you go with the internet warehouse. They know they can't match the price, so the local guys (at least in my area) seem to be stepping up the service.

Enjoy the search and let us know what you decide and how it turns out.
 
Oct 29, 2008
134
Montgomery 17 Dothan, Al
I like Sail Rite. I ordered a sail kit for my sailing dingy and sewed it myself. Saved quite a few $$$ and it was a fun experience and you learn alot. If I ever had a sail rip I'm confident I'd be able to do a fairly nice jiffy repair.
 
Oct 26, 2005
2,057
- - Satellite Beach, FL.
You might check with a local loft, I know around our area people are getting some good deals.
Lower paying work is better than no work.
 
Jun 12, 2010
936
Oday 22 Orleans Marina, NOLA
I requested a quote from northsails which has a loft near me. I expect to get a high bid that i'll try to talk them down on. Local does have advantages that may well be worth cost.
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
I would check a local loft Ken. You need to know what you're getting when you go on line. Myself, I want a Main with sail slides on the luff and the foot. So a loose foot Main is out of the question. I also want a set of reefing points. Regular batten pockets is fine with me.

As far as the Gennie goes, I want one exactly like the one I have right now which is kind of up swept so I can see under it. So chances are, when I need to replace this sail I'm going to take it to a local loft and tell the guy to make me a sail exactly like this one without the reefing points that I had put into it years ago. I used to have my Gennie set up so I could reef it. What a PITA that was but it seemed like a good idea at the time. I got the idea from one of Lynne and Larry Pardey's books.
On the Gennie: figure on getting the UV shield and figure on which side of the boat you want to mount the control line and the cleat for it.
Also, figure out how much line you'll need which has a lot to do with where you want to mount the cleat. The control line cleat on a stock O'Day 222 is on the Starboard side of the corner of the cabin which is a poor location for a sailor who single hands. The winches and tracks are on the cabin on these boats. Another poor set up but I digress. I want everything within reach of the helm, myself.
My control line is on the Starboard side of my boat and my jam cleat is near my stern rail for easy access. The UV shield is on the Starboard side of my sail and the drum winds up the line clockwise and when I pull the sail out.
Some guys prefer a a Sumbrella UV shield. I think they had too much weight to the sail and prefer a Dacron shield myself. You need some sort of UV protection for this sail or you'll only get three seasons out of it.

So it's a good idea to know exactly what you're getting for your money and this is where a local guy can come in handy.
Joe
 

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Dec 8, 2006
1,085
Oday 26 Starr, SC
Quality

This place is quality if you are willing to pay:

http://www.macksails.com/sails.htm

Ed K
Addendum:
"Greatness is not in where we stand,
but in what direction we are moving.
We must sail sometimes with the wind
and sometimes against it—but sail we
must and not drift, nor lie at anchor."
—Oliver Wendell Holmes



I need new sails for my 22, and while I'm at it I'd like to add a headsail furler. In price comparing I found that the sail warehouse beats everyone, but often you get what you pay for.

I did a bunch of price/quality comparisons about a year ago and even got some quotes but I've since lost all that research.

So far this is my list:

D&R : Main, 135% genoa, CDI FF2 - $2608
SW : Main, 100% jib, CDI FF2 - $1509
SBO: Main, Jib, No Furler - $967*
FX: Main w/full battens, 135 Jib + furler - $1845

* Need to add furler @ $458 + change jib for furler, guesstimate $1600?

I currently have a 100% jib and would need to add track to fly a 135. (+$200)

So, sail warehouse yeah or nay?

What abount SBO's sail loft?

...and who makes the sails for the sail warehouse and SBO?

Other vendors I should look at?

Edit: Add FX Sails to the mix - prices seem pretty good and their website has a nice little calculator on it for sail options like reef points and battens.
 

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Oct 26, 2005
2,057
- - Satellite Beach, FL.
I would check a local loft Ken. You need to know what you're getting when you go on line. Myself, I want a Main with sail slides on the luff and the foot. So a loose foot Main is out of the question. I also want a set of reefing points. Regular batten pockets is fine with me.

As far as the Gennie goes, I want one exactly like the one I have right now which is kind of up swept so I can see under it. So chances are, when I need to replace this sail I'm going to take it to a local loft and tell the guy to make me a sail exactly like this one without the reefing points that I had put into it years ago. I used to have my Gennie set up so I could reef it. What a PITA that was but it seemed like a good idea at the time. I got the idea from one of Lynne and Larry Pardey's books.
On the Gennie: figure on getting the UV shield and figure on which side of the boat you want to mount the control line and the cleat for it.
Also, figure out how much line you'll need which has a lot to do with where you want to mount the cleat. The control line cleat on a stock O'Day 222 is on the Starboard side of the corner of the cabin which is a poor location for a sailor who single hands. The winches and tracks are on the cabin on these boats. Another poor set up but I digress. I want everything within reach of the helm, myself.
My control line is on the Starboard side of my boat and my jam cleat is near my stern rail for easy access. The UV shield is on the Starboard side of my sail and the drum winds up the line clockwise and when I pull the sail out.
Some guys prefer a a Sumbrella UV shield. I think they had too much weight to the sail and prefer a Dacron shield myself. You need some sort of UV protection for this sail or you'll only get three seasons out of it.

So it's a good idea to know exactly what you're getting for your money and this is where a local guy can come in handy.
Joe
x2 on being able to see under the head sail.
Mine is on a wire pennant and I've been told that deck sweepers are faster but visibility is more important to me. And my boat does hull speed with what I've got so......
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
I think that visibility is very important. I'm not big on speed. Most of the time I'm trolling a fishing lure and I may head up a little and put her on a pinching course in order to slow her down a little. Actually I'll use just the Main most of the time when I'm trolling if the wind is good.
 
Oct 3, 2010
130
oday 31 noank
i am happy with the doyle sails on my 31...they were made at their dartmouth loft. i also know that the former ceo of oday has all his work done by thurston in bristol ri
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
Don't be afraid to haggle with these sailmakers Ken. They're going to start at $1100.00 for a Main sail. My friend Wayne got the guy down to $800.00 for his Main at Sperry Sails and he's happy with the sail. The guy quoted him a price of over $1000.00 and Wayne told him that it was too much money. The guy said, "How much money do you think you should pay for a Main Sail for a 22' sloop?" and Wayne told about $800.00 as he turned around and start walking toward the door. The guy said, "Hey wait a minute, I think I can do it for that." and he did.
I saw his sail and that sail is nicely made. I may go to Sperry myself when I get some money for new sails.
Joe
 
Dec 24, 2010
78
Oday 22 Erie Basin Marina Buffalo, NY
Hi Ken,
You can also try http://baconsails.com D&R is probably the best for a CDI ff2 furler, and Rudy will most likely throw in the extras that you need like the furling line and fairlead.
 
Dec 8, 2006
1,085
Oday 26 Starr, SC
sails

Hi Ken,
You can also try http://baconsails.com D&R is probably the best for a CDI ff2 furler, and Rudy will most likely throw in the extras that you need like the furling line and fairlead.
Bacon sails is also a good source for used sails. Save some money if not a racer wanting tweeked sails.

Ed K

Addendum:

"Evil cannot be defeated by cowering in a corner hoping it will go away. The fear that leaves us helpless and cowering is what evil feeds on. It is the best result evil can hope for. We will only defeat evil by confronting it with an equal or greater force and utterly destroying it where it stands whenever we see it."
.... Oldguy52, Dec. 2012
 
Dec 27, 2011
279
Oday 272 Pensacola
Anyone have experience with fairleads for furler that attach to the stanchions? I'd like to get line off deck, get additional 'route' to keep line from rubbing against chainplates, etc... but think this may be too much pressure to put on stanchions - possibly causing leaks...
 
Oct 2, 2008
1,424
Island Packet 31 Brunswick, Ga
Anyone have experience with fairleads for furler that attach to the stanchions? I'd like to get line off deck, get additional 'route' to keep line from rubbing against chainplates, etc... but think this may be too much pressure to put on stanchions - possibly causing leaks...
Cbourne, that sounds like a leak waiting to happen! Lord, my stanchion bases leak when I just look at my stanchions!
 
Dec 8, 2006
1,085
Oday 26 Starr, SC
fairleads, stanchions, backing plates

Cbourne, that sounds like a leak waiting to happen! Lord, my stanchion bases leak when I just look at my stanchions!
Keith,

You are wanting something to do in downtime?
Put backing plates on all your stanchions so if
you are about to fall overboard they will support
your weight.

The backing plates do not have to be stainless
steel. Make them out of 1/2 inch or greater
plywood and seal with epoxy. Yes you would
need new bolts the new length.

At the same time epoxy the holes to prevent
damage from your leaks.

And it would be easy to add the blocks tha fit
over and slide down the stanchions. Just very
expensive.

But adding one fore at the bow pulpit would make
a good turning point for the line. I have consider
doing just that but got into rebuilding another boat.

At least do the stanchion backs that you can get
to. Some would be easy.

Keith, just do not fall asleep in the V berth...

Ed K
addendum:
"Evil cannot be defeated by cowering in
a corner hoping it will go away. The
fear that leaves us helpless and
cowering is what evil feeds on. It is
the best result evil can hope for.
We will only defeat evil by confronting
it with an equal or greater force and
utterly destroying it where it stands whenever we see it."
.... Oldguy52, Dec. 2012
 

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Oct 2, 2008
1,424
Island Packet 31 Brunswick, Ga
Keith,

You are wanting something to do in downtime?
Put backing plates on all your stanchions so if
you are about to fall overboard they will support
your weight.

The backing plates do not have to be stainless
steel. Make them out of 1/2 inch or greater
plywood and seal with epoxy. Yes you would
need new bolts the new length.

At the same time epoxy the holes to prevent
damage from your leaks.

And it would be easy to add the blocks tha fit
over and slide down the stanchions. Just very
expensive.

But adding one fore at the bow pulpit would make
a good turning point for the line. I have consider
doing just that but got into rebuilding another boat.

At least do the stanchion backs that you can get
to. Some would be easy.

Keith, just do not fall asleep in the V berth...

Ed K
addendum:
"Evil cannot be defeated by cowering in
a corner hoping it will go away. The
fear that leaves us helpless and
cowering is what evil feeds on. It is
the best result evil can hope for.
We will only defeat evil by confronting
it with an equal or greater force and
utterly destroying it where it stands whenever we see it."
.... Oldguy52, Dec. 2012
Hello brother Ed!

I have filled the holes, but the cabin liner, unless I cut it away which I often ponder, seems to prevent an effective backing plate.

Why not fall asleep in the v?
 
Dec 8, 2006
1,085
Oday 26 Starr, SC
stanchion backing plates

Hello brother Ed!

I have filled the holes, but the cabin liner,
unless I cut it away which I often ponder,
seems to prevent an effective backing plate.

Why not fall asleep in the v?
Keith,

The stanchion nuts for the most part are
up in gunnells... I did not know the cabin
liner went up there... in the bow and stern...
and wet locker...

And for the rest, yes add reinforcement
even where visible. Just have to make
neat and tiddy. So if you were to choose
plywood or wood you would finish first.

From all your previous post, I guess I was
wrong in assuming that you can handle this...

But if you want stainless steel, just make a
plywood template and take to machine shop
and have them make them in stainless steel
or marine bronze.

You are the one who wanted downtime
project, yes? Just leave your wife a note
where to find you sacked out.

Ed K
Addendum: "The quality of a man's life is
in direct proportion to his commitment to
excellence, regardless of his chosen field of
endeavor." by Vince Lombardi
 

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