My first sailboat Mac 88 26

JDK · Oct 12, 2008

Drag it on over to New Port Richey and we'll get you started. We have the same model and year, so it will be a quick study. We stay pretty busy, so some advance notice will be needed, but we'd be glad to give you some pointers and get you started off right.

Jack Kuhlmann
S/V Soire'e
1988 26D

David F · Oct 12, 2008

After 20 years of wanting a sailboat, we bought an 88 26D in April and have had it on the water 10 times. I had a little instruction last year in a 22' Cataline, but consider myself a novice. The broker did take us out before we purchased it and that was a tremendous lesson. A couple of hours with JDK in New Port Richie will go a long way.......... HOWEVER.... every time we go out, this novice learns something new. When I read that novices should not go out in any wind above 10 mph, that is very good advice. Enjoy!

David F · Oct 12, 2008

Oh... and by the way, the unforeseen joy of owning a Mac is going on line every night and reading these things. There are so many guys like us novices and so many old heads out there that are glad to help.

Nik · Oct 13, 2008

Welcome to the group and as a proud new owner. The Mac's are good boats and she will treat you right if you treat her right. Just remember to fill the water ballast and close the valve. Keep the winds light (5-10, 15 pushing it) at the start and remember that these boats are tender (they heel quick) then firm up well. Ask a million questions (the only "Stupid" question, is the one not asked).

Nik

MrBill_FLL · Oct 13, 2008

Greetings, I have a 1988 26D also.... I'm in ft lauderdale, let me know if I can help.

here's some random macgregor photos I saved over the years... some are my boat many are not...

http://s64.photobucket.com/albums/h169/ftldiver2/MACGREGOR/

David F · Oct 14, 2008

I enjoyed your pix also. Where did you get the stern railing?

TC22454 · Oct 23, 2008

Mac 26D in Deltona

Hi Ac,

We liive in Deltona and bought an '89 Mac 26D 2 years ago. Busted up my hand a year ago and (3 operations later) are back in the water now. Spent the time working/modifying her so the time was not wasted. Given the down time, we still call ourselves newbees for anything rough on the water. But, we have the rigging and basic sailing down.

I and my wife UNI would love to get with you. We could learn together. We have a couple of seasoned friends that have helped a lot.

Good Luck. She's a good boat and quite forgiving.

Terry C

Jansen · Oct 24, 2008

Re: Mac 26D in Deltona

I have a 25 now and am looking at a 26s. Are you guys with 26s happy with the factory single axle trailer? It looks kinda flimsy.

TC22454 · Oct 25, 2008

Re: Mac 26D in Deltona

Hi Jansen,

I have an '89 D model with the original tailer. Same trailer on both the D and S models. It looks flimsy but its' not. It tracks well towing or backing. The boat sits low so it is very easy to launch in skinny water. We launch at many lakes that are low due to a drought here in Fl and it works very well..

Here are some things we've found, good and bad.

1) Tows well but balance it right or the tail will wag the dog. There is a lot of boat past the back of the trailer. Basically, be happy at 55-60 mph.

2) Surge breaks work very well when needed. Check them before each tow cuz they do stick sometimes.

3) Our '89 model has a short tounge so you have to get the truck close to the water. The later models (I think 91 and above but not positive) have a longer tounge and a handy boarding ladder built in.

4) As many other D and S owners have found, you cannot get the boat to come fully into the trailer on one crank. You crank. It goes all the way up. You pull out and find its' 6" back on the trailer. A trick we learned to over come this is to double crank. Put the boat on the trailer as normal. Pull out untll the fender tops just clear the water. Stop on the ramp and crank again to pull the boat fully forward. Works every time.

5) The boat will severly rock fore and aft on the trailer when towing. Absolutetly use straps when towing. Tighten down the rear ones first then the forward one across the bow. That will pull the bow down against the tightened rear strap and the boat will ride as it should.

Hope this was of some use to you. Our towing is limited to short trips. A couple times a year we go to the Gulf which takes about 5 hours. The trailer is absolutely fine for this. Honestly, if we were doing a lot of 5 hour trips we would replace it with a tandom axel.

r.oril · Oct 29, 2008

What a trip! I just purchased a 1988 Mac 26D and will pick it up Saturday. I have been reading and re-reading the above posts, lot's of good info. I am 66 years young and had access to a IronCraft 21 in the late 60's but have only been wind surfing lately. I got a "wild hair" and wanted a real sailboat.
Everywhere you go on the internet, the Mac 88 26D has a great rep, great first boat, safe, easy to sail, ect.
Questions: I have calcium deposits on the bottom on the hull. What is the groups best fix?
Use of a BugBomb inside for spiders (battery removed).
Best wax for the hull?
She goes in the lake after I clean her up with the sails reefed and a jib with light winds.
Here is a link to the Mac 88 26D Manual.
http://www.ne-ts.com/mac/cc/cc-108page01-08.html

Good luck and thanks guys
Bob

Phil V25 · Oct 29, 2008

r.oril said:
Questions: I have calcium deposits on the bottom on the hull. What is the groups best fix? Bob

I would try muratic acid, just be carefull. It is powerful!

r.oril · Oct 29, 2008

Thanks. My neighbor has a pool so I will get some from her. Also, I got a good quote from BoatUs at $464 for the insurance.
Bob

dvideohd · Oct 30, 2008

Ins...

Get more quotes...

Boat US was less than 1/3 cost for me...

Texas- lakes.... and gulf area....

--jerry

TC22454 · Oct 30, 2008

To v3 and oril:

The Mac S and D are good boats. The swing keel (S) is nice if you like to be daring in the shallows. It let's you know by gentle thumps to get out of there. The dagger board (D) is said to be a bit faster (any good skipper can make either faster). If you enter any club races your handicap will be high so learn to sail or just have fun (that's us).

v3: Just go by the book and you'll be fine rigging her. One note I would add is to guess the age and bag of your main. Unless its' new, stand the mast up a bit straighter. Sloping it aft will cause more weather helm as your speed/heal angle increases. Stand it straight up and hold the tiller with your finger tips. DO NOT tile the mast forward of straight up. You can cause reverse weather helm and spin stern on rather than into the wind if you round up.

oril: Another alternative to muritic acid is Phosphonic acid. I know, you never heard of it. It is also used in swimming pools but they call it names like "Metal Magic" or "Stain Magic", etc. Unlike muratic acid (50% hydrochloric), it is mild and continues to work. It is good for removing stains, dressing up tarnished metal, and perfect for disolving calcium. Brush it on. Let it sit a few minutes and swipe the deposit with a putty knife. If it does not crumble off, brush it again and wait a bit longer until you find the right timing. You can dilute it if you wish. I use the above method and have a beer in between swipes. Calcium usually gone before the six-pack. It has not hurt our bottom paint at all. I do not know about other paints. Test a spot befoe you go all in.

BTW, works great soaking oxidized SS fittings and (off the boat) hard water stains, etc. around the house. We also use it diluted in one of those battery operated shower cleaners you see advertised. We mix it with water and reuse the bottle after the cleaner is gone. Wife loves it. No more shower scum. Always snow white grout lines.

About hull wax, our experience is that any good wax (car or boat) works as good as another on a trailer boat. We even use the spray on occasionally if we are too busy with back-to-back trips to buff it out. The real key is to protect the gelcoat/paint from oxidizing and from fuel and other spills in the water around marinas.

Good sailing to all

Phil V25 · Oct 31, 2008

Terry C said:
To v3 and oril:

oril: Another alternative to muriatic acid is Phosphoric acid. I know, you never heard of it. It is also used in swimming pools but they call it names like "Metal Magic" or "Stain Magic", etc. Unlike muriatic acid (50% hydrochloric), it is mild and continues to work. It is good for removing stains, dressing up tarnished metal, and perfect for dissolving calcium. Brush it on. Let it sit a few minutes and swipe the deposit with a putty knife. If it does not crumble off, brush it again and wait a bit longer until you find the right timing. You can dilute it if you wish. I use the above method and have a beer in between swipes. Calcium usually gone before the six-pack. It has not hurt our bottom paint at all. I do not know about other paints. Test a spot before you go all in.

Good sailing to all

One reason I like Muriatic Acid is it is available in most hardware stores at about $4/gallon! You can always dilute it some. Where can you buy Phosphoric acid?

TC22454 · Oct 31, 2008

Phil,

You can buy Phosphonic acid at any pool suppy store. The people there will not know Phosphonic acid from the Philharmonic Orchistra but they will know what they use to remove stains from pools. The acid is just the active ingrediant. No disagreement on your recommendation. I agree that you can dilute Muriatic acid to any strength. It is also about 1/3 the price and works well for stains.

I mentioned the Phosphonic acid as a milder alternative on stains but it also has other uses. It works well for stains/calcium but is less potent. Another reason I mentioned it is because it has the oposite reaction with metal than Muriatric - it cleans surface rust off and polishes old stainless. One note on Phosphonic acid - it has a mild garlic odor so you may crave Italian food when you'r done.

My first sailboat Mac 88 26

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