Moving the split backstay mounts - H30

[H30Gary]

The mounting points for the split backstay on my boat are so close to the aft horn cleats that the turnbuckles actually rub on the cleats. This not only makes it difficult to adjust the turnbuckle, but also makes it very awkward to put a line on the cleat. There's not really a good alternate location for the cleats, so I'm thinking about relocating the mounting point for the split backstays to chainplates thru bolted through the transom. Anyone see any issues with this? The transom seems to be plenty strong and there is good access. I would mount the chainplates well outboard close to where the transom meets the side of the hull, for added strength. I'm planning to use Schaefer 84-88 SST chain plates. These are rated for 3/16" wire (the backstay is 3/16") and have four mounting holes for 3/8" thru bolts. I would think this would be plenty strong, in fact stronger than the current mounting points which are U-bolts, which I don't really like.

The photo shows the cleat and the u-bolt, with the backstay removed. The cleat is actually worn some from being rubbed by the turnbuckle.

Any thoughts are appreciated!
Gary

 

[kito]

I came home for lunch and thought I would snap a photo of my 79 H30 backstay chainplate. It's on the transom. Hunter must have done more than a few changes after 1979.

 

[H30Gary]

Thanks Kito, that is very helpful. That is pretty much what I had in mind doing to my boat.

 

[kito]

Not sure why they changed it other than for looks. The stern rail looks to be changed too. Not sure if that was the reason to move the chainplates. I never had my mast up to see where the split backstay cables are going to run but I would like to make some corner stern rail seats and not sure if the darn backstays will allow for them.

 

[Paul F]

The chain plates that Kito has will be more reliable than a u-bolt. I replaced the same u-bolt on my 33, but wish there were chain plates similar to Kito's.

 

[caguy]

Don't know if it applies to Hunter but on my C27 I converted from a split backstay to a single. Researched it before hand and could find no reason not to. It really cleaned up the back of the cockpit and even made it easier to get up and down the transom ladder. It also made putting in perch seats a lot easier.
Just food for though.

 

[Dalliance]

Another Option

You could move the U-bolts forward. Zoom in on this photo of my '82 H30 and you will see that the U-bolts are at least six inches forward of where yours are. Note also the height of the backstay block. If your turnbuckle is rubbing on the cleat, is the backstay block too low? I am not experiencing any of the problems you describe. Further, thinking about backstay angles, our later H30's have a raised coaming across the transom, while the earlier ones are are open. Could you end up with a relocated backstay rubbing on the aft coaming?

I also see in your photo an added stanchion at the corner which must sometimes be in conflict with your aft dock lines. If you do go with transom mounted chainplates, you might consider moving those cleats forward a few inches….or…better, repair the damaged rail that added stanchion appears to be propping up.

 

[H30Gary]

You could move the U-bolts forward. Zoom in on this photo of my '82 H30 and you will see that the U-bolts are at least six inches forward of where yours are. Note also the height of the backstay block. If your turnbuckle is rubbing on the cleat, is the backstay block too low? I am not experiencing any of the problems you describe. Further, thinking about backstay angles, our later H30's have a raised coaming across the transom, while the earlier ones are are open. Could you end up with a relocated backstay rubbing on the aft coaming?

I also see in your photo an added stanchion at the corner which must sometimes be in conflict with your aft dock lines. If you do go with transom mounted chainplates, you might consider moving those cleats forward a few inches….or…better, repair the damaged rail that added stanchion appears to be propping up.

Yes, good points all. My 1980 has the coaming across the back like yours, so before moving anything I will have to look at the angles to make sure the backstay does not rub on the coaming. (Eyballing it looks like it will be OK, but the mast is off the boat at the moment so it is a bit hard to tell.) It is nice to know that moving the u-bolts forward is an option. That would solve the interference problem, though at the expense of slightly higher - but based on your boat perfectly acceptable - load on the backstay. And you are right about the added stanchions - the stern pulpit tubing is cracked in a couple of places - the added stanchions take the stress off the cracks and keep the lifelines tight. I plan to get the cracks welded one of these days, but haven't gotten around to it yet. In any case, thanks for the info!
Gary