More Compression Post Questions

[RTB]

I have searched what is available here (100+threads), but can't find the answers I need. It was discussed here http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=474808&highlight=compression post repair but, as usual was left hanging.

If you don't know you have a problem for sure, just look in the forward, hard to see, area of your bilge. If you find this, you have a problem.

Does anyone know how the steel pipe was put in? It does have a flange on the top side, that seems to have had a bit of glass cloth thrown at it when it was installed. The bottom, I can't tell for sure. Is it just glassed in? If I can figure out how to remove it, I can have a new piece made of stainless. It will be difficult to get the length correct, but trial and error should eventually pay off. Any ideas how I might proceed? Once I have it figured out, I'll have the mast pulled, and tackle the job.

There has been no signs of a problem, but figure there will be very soon. Also, what holds the teak compression post in place at it's base, and at the cabin top?

I have a few projects ahead, but this one may be the most challenging. She is a nice boat, and sails beautifully. So, to me it should be worth the effort to make things right.

 

[Joe23455]

I have hull # 30. My steel post had some scaleing but otherwise sound, my supect on my inspection is the steel post is just glassed into the top of Keel
and same to underside of wooden compression post. I have removed the interior teak covering and the compression post on my hull looks like
a douglas fir, is in very good condition , the only rot (very slight) is
at the bottom and approximates the same look as your picture only a few inches on the walkthru side of post, i scraped this out, epoxy filled and reinstalled the cover. The top deck has an aluminum plate within the
glass( i know from drilling thru to rout a wind vane system.

Hope this helps. and enjoy your 36 it is a fine sailing and handling ship.

 

[RTB]

Thank you Joe. I guess the next step would be to start chipping away at the base of the post, where it sits on the keel and see what I find. It's a tight spot! It would be nice to get the old post out in one piece for duplication. I'm thinking it will break up though.

Anyway, thanks for the encouragement.

Ralph

 

[rardiH36]

Dear RTB:

I noted your comment about previous threads on compression post repair being wanting... maybe because not our model specific? Anyway, as you get into your project, please kindly report your findings/solutions.

As for my boat (Hull #36) the metal pipe where it rests in the bilge above the keel is very rusty, but when I've put a long screw driver against it and rapped with a hammer, it still seems to have a reasonable amount of firm steel left. One solution to keep it that way is that I've added a very small pump at the very aft end of the bilge. Every visit to the boat, I activate the pump to drain the bilge completely dry. It's got its own discharge hose/thru-hull and I have put in a valve on the line so that water in the hose doesn't drain back into the bilge when the pump is turned off. The result is that the compression post now never sits in bilge water.

I am curious to have more info about the joint between the short steel post and the wood compression post section.

regards,
rardi

 

[RTB]

rardi,

You are correct about this being model specific. There were many great threads regarding the compression post on various model Hunters. Without looking up specific threads, there were completed projects where a piece of wood was replaced below the sole, but nothing where the metal post was ever actually removed and installed. Maybe I just never saw the right one?

Anyway, be patient. It will be a short while before I tackle this, but when I do there will be a full report. It is difficult to get good photos. Good lighting and a mirror will probably make it possible. As I said, it's a tough spot to get at.

I'm all ears if anyone else has info that will help.

Ralph

 

[Dalliance]

RTB
It looks like your shower is in the same position relative to the compression post as it is in my '82 H30. When I dealt with a similar, though apparently less severe, situation (See my response to Malyea's post on 2/28/2010.), I found that the PO had cut out an access port under the vinyl inset at the shower drain which is just a few inches from the compression post. It was about 6" square and gave me access to the fore side of the compression post in addition to the aft access available through the cabin sole. If you can do something like that, it might make your job a bit easier.

 

[RTB]

Hey, thanks. I'll take a look in a day or two when we get back to the boat. Your idea may help with access to the forward side of the post, which I was concerned with.

Ralph

 

[RTB]

RTB
(See my response to Malyea's post on 2/28/2010.)

Thanks, I'll check it out.

 

[rardiH36]

If your 36 is like mine, under the teak grate floor in the head is a removable piece of fiberglass which is at the lowest point in the head and serves as the shower drain to a dedicated shower pump/pan in the bilge. The piece is secured with four screws and caulking/bedding compound. Once removed, it provides a clear view and access to the forward-most keel bolt and the bottom of the compression post isn't far away.

 

[RTB]

I'm going to the boat on Thursday, and will take a look at things. Thanks for the tips, you guys!