Last summer we discovered the cabin top panel covering the companionway slide was wet. We found a crack under the narrow sliding area oozing brown water. I traced the source to snaps added by the PO for a canvas cover. I bought an Eletrophysics CT33 moisture meter recommended by Maine Sail, and found much of the panel was soaked. After a full boat inspection, I also found couple small areas at the stanchions which am addressing. I can only reinforce Maine Sail’s recommendations to invest in a moisture meter. I conclude for boats our age, we should have already rebedded all deck penetrations.
Fortunately this area of the boat is removable. When we hauled out for the winter, I removed the panel, covered the boat for storage, and brought the panel home. As I began to cut the bottom out of the panel, I was getting splashed. The starboard narrow extension held free water but as I removed the 1/8” thick GRP panel coverer the bottom, I found much of the balsa, while dark and wet was surprisingly still bonded on both sides. I gutted this area with an oscillating multi-tool and prepped for new balsa. I found the forward-most section was also wet and began cutting into that area. I ended up all but a 1’ wide area exposed. I cut out the wettest and delaminated balsa, but left some that showed moist since it was tightly bonded to the panel top. With the bottom covering removed, I monitored with the moisture meter as it dried over the winter. With one side exposed, the balsa dried completely and I could track progress with the meter. Even with one side open to air, it took weeks to fully dry with the panel leaning over a heating vent. With the bottom panel and balsa removed the panel is quite flexible and would be easy to break if mishandled.
Once completely dry we started rebuild. The balsa is 3/8 from FiberGlast, which we found easy to cut with a utility knife. We used epoxy to attach the balsa to the panels and we cut away the balsa from all screw penetrations areas and filled those with thickened epoxy. The 1/8 covering removed was chopped strand mat construction and I chose to use the same. Epoxy doesn’t work well with CSM, and my recommendation would be to use polyester resin with CSM or use cloth. If I did this again, I’d use cloth and epoxy resin. We built up to 1/8 with 3 layers in most areas. I also faired the 4” wide slide cover undersides with thickened resin, since visible from below. I painted the bottom with TotalBoat barrier coat. The panel is now quite stiff and ready to reinstall after we launch as I don’t want to risk carrying the panel up the ladder while on the hard.
This was our first fiberglass repair project and we learned a lot on a part that was thankfully removable and has a repair area that is not readily visible. The primary lesson is check NOW and often for moisture, and to proactively rebed the obvious stanchions, chain plates and such, but to also address the smaller penetrations like simple snaps. /Ed
Fortunately this area of the boat is removable. When we hauled out for the winter, I removed the panel, covered the boat for storage, and brought the panel home. As I began to cut the bottom out of the panel, I was getting splashed. The starboard narrow extension held free water but as I removed the 1/8” thick GRP panel coverer the bottom, I found much of the balsa, while dark and wet was surprisingly still bonded on both sides. I gutted this area with an oscillating multi-tool and prepped for new balsa. I found the forward-most section was also wet and began cutting into that area. I ended up all but a 1’ wide area exposed. I cut out the wettest and delaminated balsa, but left some that showed moist since it was tightly bonded to the panel top. With the bottom covering removed, I monitored with the moisture meter as it dried over the winter. With one side exposed, the balsa dried completely and I could track progress with the meter. Even with one side open to air, it took weeks to fully dry with the panel leaning over a heating vent. With the bottom panel and balsa removed the panel is quite flexible and would be easy to break if mishandled.
Once completely dry we started rebuild. The balsa is 3/8 from FiberGlast, which we found easy to cut with a utility knife. We used epoxy to attach the balsa to the panels and we cut away the balsa from all screw penetrations areas and filled those with thickened epoxy. The 1/8 covering removed was chopped strand mat construction and I chose to use the same. Epoxy doesn’t work well with CSM, and my recommendation would be to use polyester resin with CSM or use cloth. If I did this again, I’d use cloth and epoxy resin. We built up to 1/8 with 3 layers in most areas. I also faired the 4” wide slide cover undersides with thickened resin, since visible from below. I painted the bottom with TotalBoat barrier coat. The panel is now quite stiff and ready to reinstall after we launch as I don’t want to risk carrying the panel up the ladder while on the hard.
This was our first fiberglass repair project and we learned a lot on a part that was thankfully removable and has a repair area that is not readily visible. The primary lesson is check NOW and often for moisture, and to proactively rebed the obvious stanchions, chain plates and such, but to also address the smaller penetrations like simple snaps. /Ed
