Mods to Get on the Water Faster

[entmejia]

Because my 240 is kept on a trailer and launched each time I use it, I necessarily have to raise and lower the mast, attach and detach the boom, etc…, each time I take it out. This generally takes about an hour to accomplish for a variety of reasons, not the least of which is a bent T fitting on a shroud. Because I will soon replace the standing rigging, I came up with a list of things I’d like to do to help speed up the set up process. ​

​

1. Replace the mast crutch. The PO shortened it to about 4 feet so the mast would be horizontal when lowered. However, the angle is now too great to begin raising the mast without a helper lifting it first. I would think 8 or 9 feet should be sufficient since I don’t have the original measurements. ​

2. Buy a new gin pole. The PO improvised one from pipe that fits over a bolt at the front of the mast. There is no lateral support, so I have to keep one hand on the homemade pole to keep if from falling, and use one to pull the tackle – not ideal. I know the store on this site sells one that will fit in the hole on the front of my mast, so that should provide lateral support.​

3. Add a Johnson quick release lever to the forestay below the CDI furler, along with a quick release pin to attach it to the stem head. It takes way too much pressure to pin the forestay as is, and I can’t believe that pushing down on the furler drum with all my weight is a good idea. Plus the cotter rings are a pain when it’s hot and your frustrated and in a hurry. ​

4. Modify the topping lift. The internal mast topping lift line should terminate aft with a thimble and stainless ring, and the cable from the mast should end in a swiveling snap shackle to make attaching the two easier than using clevis pins – which I consistently drop.​

5. Replace cotter rings with stainless spring cotter pins or similar push on retaining clips. Not all of them, just the ones that I have to take on and off each time. ​

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My goal is for the rigging to be quick and reliable. Let me know what you think, any suggestions and any additional tips you have for getting out on the water faster and easier.​

 

[brake_wind]

I found a video (on YouTube, of course!) of a solo mast-stepping system that I plan to use from now on:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pX9TRjBKCQ8

I recently retired, and I no longer wish to pour money into someone's pocket for annual slip fees at the local marina which is less than exceptionally managed. So I'll be trailer sailing my '81 H22 that I've had since '91 from now on.

The height of the mast crutch will have to be increased a few feet, but I plan to simply use an extension clamped to the existing mast crutch.

I'll continue to use the jib halyard with a big loop as a jam knot tied in it up against the base of the mast. I've been clipping the mainsheet tackle between the forestay's tack on the foredeck and the halyard which my wife hauls in while I try to keep the mast stable as I clumsily attempt to step up onto the cabin roof with the weight of the mast on my shoulder. Makes for some tricky moments when the mast begins to move sideways, gathering inertia.

So for my boat the A-frame idea seems to be a good solution for preventing the mast from swaying and twisting as it's raised. I broke the fitting at the base of the mast years ago when it twisted as I tried to step the mast in the slip (there's a photo of it in my profile's photo album if anyone knows where I can find that part).

There area a number of videos on YouTube that highlight mast stepping operations, but I felt this one made the most sense.

 

[mmsailor]

mast stepping

I found a video (on YouTube, of course!) of a solo mast-stepping system that I plan to use from now on:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pX9TRjBKCQ8

I recently retired, and I no longer wish to pour money into someone's pocket for annual slip fees at the local marina which is less than exceptionally managed. So I'll be trailer sailing my '81 H22 that I've had since '91 from now on.

The height of the mast crutch will have to be increased a few feet, but I plan to simply use an extension clamped to the existing mast crutch.

I'll continue to use the jib halyard with a big loop as a jam knot tied in it up against the base of the mast. I've been clipping the mainsheet tackle between the forestay's tack on the foredeck and the halyard which my wife hauls in while I try to keep the mast stable as I clumsily attempt to step up onto the cabin roof with the weight of the mast on my shoulder. Makes for some tricky moments when the mast begins to move sideways, gathering inertia.

So for my boat the A-frame idea seems to be a good solution for preventing the mast from swaying and twisting as it's raised. I broke the fitting at the base of the mast years ago when it twisted as I tried to step the mast in the slip (there's a photo of it in my profile's photo album if anyone knows where I can find that part).

There area a number of videos on YouTube that highlight mast stepping operations, but I felt this one made the most sense.

between the forestay's tack on the foredeck and the halyard which my wife hauls in while I try to keep the mast stable as I clumsily attempt to step up onto the cabin roof with the weight of the mast on my shoulder. Makes for some tricky moments when the mast begins to move sideways, gathering inertia. I made a mast stepping plank for our h23 that worked for me . Basically it went from the top of the transom to the cabintop . It was t shapped and was inserted with the slider open so it could not move from side to side . One of the benefits being you started out standing at a higher level and not that much of an incline either . I would put the mast on my shoulder and simply walk it up while my wife held the main sheet that was thru a block fastened to the bow pulpit . Several people who saw it made their own . If this does not make sense , you can email me and I will try and give you more detail . When I sold the boat it went with it so no pics .

 

[mmsailor]

mast crutch

Because my 240 is kept on a trailer and launched each time I use it, I necessarily have to raise and lower the mast, attach and detach the boom, etc…, each time I take it out. This generally takes about an hour to accomplish for a variety of reasons, not the least of which is a bent T fitting on a shroud. Because I will soon replace the standing rigging, I came up with a list of things I’d like to do to help speed up the set up process.

1. Replace the mast crutch. The PO shortened it to about 4 feet so the mast would be horizontal when lowered. However, the angle is now too great to begin raising the mast without a helper lifting it first. I would think 8 or 9 feet should be sufficient since I don’t have the original measurements.
2. Buy a new gin pole. The PO improvised one from pipe that fits over a bolt at the front of the mast. There is no lateral support, so I have to keep one hand on the homemade pole to keep if from falling, and use one to pull the tackle – not ideal. I know the store on this site sells one that will fit in the hole on the front of my mast, so that should provide lateral support.
3. Add a Johnson quick release lever to the forestay below the CDI furler, along with a quick release pin to attach it to the stem head. It takes way too much pressure to pin the forestay as is, and I can’t believe that pushing down on the furler drum with all my weight is a good idea. Plus the cotter rings are a pain when it’s hot and your frustrated and in a hurry.
4. Modify the topping lift. The internal mast topping lift line should terminate aft with a thimble and stainless ring, and the cable from the mast should end in a swiveling snap shackle to make attaching the two easier than using clevis pins – which I consistently drop.
5. Replace cotter rings with stainless spring cotter pins or similar push on retaining clips. Not all of them, just the ones that I have to take on and off each time.

My goal is for the rigging to be quick and reliable. Let me know what you think, any suggestions and any additional tips you have for getting out on the water faster and easier.​

My new to me 23.5 came with a home made mast crutch . Someone make it out of galvanized and just some fittings . They put a piece of pvc over the horizontal portion so the mast will roll forward to attach . It is crude but effective and did not cost an arm and leg . I would loosen my shrouds so pinning the rf drum is not such a strain . Use rigging tape to mark your turn buckles so you can go right back to where you want it wihout out all thetrouble .

 

[KrustyKrab]

mmsailor, that sounds like the factory trailering mast support that I have, does it look like this pic? (sorry best pic I had handy) It's just a piece of pipe with a bracket bolted on one side to make a "Y" and a chunk of pvc pipe covering the bolt to act as a roller.

The 23.5 came with an integral mast raising system that can be done single-handed. Did your previously loved boat not come with those parts?

 

[mmsailor]

mast etc

mmsailor, that sounds like the factory trailering mast support that I have, does it look like this pic? (sorry best pic I had handy) It's just a piece of pipe with a bracket bolted on one side to make a "Y" and a chunk of pvc pipe covering the bolt to act as a roller.

The 23.5 came with an integral mast raising system that can be done single-handed. Did your previously loved boat not come with those parts?

My 23.5 did come with the factory mast raising system , Very nice system . Something happened to the original mast crutch and some one made a replacement out of galvanized pipe . They did not use a y everything is right angles but it works . It was covered in rust . I sanded it , primed it and getting ready to give it a coat of white paint . The price of a new one is right up there so I can live with this until I hit the lottery . I never buy tickets so the chances of that are not great .

 

[twalker H260]

Re: mast etc

Measurements of factory mast crutch are available here. You could likely have your galvanized pipe modified locally to match.

http://www.marlow-hunter.com/export/Model-Information/23.5_1993_1997/mast crutch 23.50001.pdf

 

[entmejia]

Thanks, all interesting information. Based on the mast crutch plan, an 8ft crutch should be tall enough to make it easier to start lifting with the tackle. My current rig is made of PVC pipe, an iron pipe insert to stiffen it, and a bow roller. Has anyone on the board been brave enough attempt replacing their own standing rigging? Doesn't seem too difficult.

 

[isaksp00]

I did replace the forestay myself on an H23, as a roller furler foil connector snapped and I had to cut the stay to repair it. I bought the stainless wire and a Hayn Hi-mod eye for the top. You have to be careful laying in the strands, but it was doable and seems to work. I am not sure the cost of these connectors is any less expensive than having a rigger do roller swaging, but it does become easier to replace later if needed.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

When I rigged the 240 for my customers regarding the topping lift connected to the boom, I gave them two choices. First is a twist shackle at the end of the boom attached to a small V jam style vang block with two sheaves that would be threaded so the end of the line would exit to the V Jam. Easy to lower or raise up but installed a stopper knot to prevent the line from exiting the block but enough to lower it so the mainsail shape would not be interfered with.

The second option was to install a turning block on the end of the boom on either side running it to cleat.

As for the forestay, I would not recommend that Johnson quick release at all. If the saftey keeper should fail, it would open up and anything could happen. In addition, you would have to shortern the forestay to accomodate that anyway and Not sure if your CDI system and sail would work at that point.