Modest keel leak in O'Day 22

[Pianobob]

Hi. Now that the NE Winter is winding down, I want to start thinking about addressing a problem with my O'Day 22. I'm a new owner of the 1978 boat, and spent much of last sailing season fixing things up. I rebedded many things, and fixed rubrail and hull to deck joint. So, my bilge and cabin were dry by the time I got the boat in the water in mid-August. The bilge area over the fixed shoal keel (no centerboard) took in about a teaspoon of water per day, but by the time I removed the boat in late Sept., it had increased to about 1/4 cup. It had the taste of seawater, and I believe that it was. The boat is on the hard, and I took a photo yesterday of what is probably the culprit, a gash of some sort in the top rear of the keel. I did add some thickened epoxy to a few areas before bottom painting last year, but probably not enough in the area indicated in photo.

Does anyone have experience with this, and also, what would be the best way to repair the leak. The water didn't necessarily seem to emanate from the rear, as the keel bilge (under the floor cover) has some cracks along the middle lower sides, which could also be sealed. I just don't want to seal in a problem that will reappear, or mask over structural damage. I'm guessing there might be some internal cracks along which the sea water penetrates. Thanks!

 

[Pianobob]

Any feedback would be appreciated.

 

[Apex]

if it's leaking, you will need to grind away back to solid material. Check condition of keel bolts, backing plates and torque on keel bolts.

I had good luck fairing in the "catalina smile" on a C25 used G-flex which hardens to a hockey puck type hardness, yet remains flexible to deal with keel and hull flexure at that point.

Looks like the back of your keel??? Perhaps a loose keelbolt allowing separation....

 

[Hydro Therapy]

If your 22 is like the one I owned you don't have access to keep bolts. Under the keel/bilge cover, no bolts existed.

You will have to grind the damage down a bit. I would fill it with 3M premium filler and gelcoat over top. If you use gelcoat with wax added you won't have to use mold release or wax paper. The wax added gelcoat will cure on its own.

 

[Pianobob]

Thanks guys. I do know that there are no keel bolts on these keels...they are molded on. Do you suggest grinding with a grinder, or just carefully sanding the area down?

 

[Apex]

ah, encapsulated ballast keel....
I have the same system on the O'Day 28. Grind out large enough to effect repairs, fill in with epoxy and glass.

 

[Hydro Therapy]

I would grind it with a Drexel tool.

 

[Pianobob]

Thanks for your input!

 

[Brian S]

Pianobob, there are plenty of resources out there for doing glass repairs. For cracks, you usually want to open them out into a V shape. Some people use a "church key" or old fashioned triangle shaped can opener. I know what they are because my Grandfather used to use one to put an extra hole in his old rolled top beer cans. I have used a rotary burr tool in a Dremel.

On this situation, I don't think a Dremel is going to do it. I think since you've got a crack all the way through the laminate enough to let water in, you need to grind out the crack. You should feather back the edges of the crack, and lay in new pieces of fiberglass fabric. I think this is especially true because the ballast is molded into the hull. There is plenty of debate, but I think it's pretty agreed to start with the first layer of glass as big as the feather area, and each subsequent layer being cut smaller. That way, when you go to grind smooth, you don't run the risk of burning through a layer. Also, it gives the biggest contact area for the first layer of patch. Usually you'll want a 12:1 ratio of feather to depth. So, if the laminate is 1/4" thick with a crack all the way through, a proper repair would require feathering back 3" and all the way deep into the laminate.

 

[kpgraci]

I've repaired several large blisters below the waterline on mine with minimal glass experience and had great success. Grid it out, layer in glass mats/epoxy to build it back up, seal and paint. Unless its structural this should be easy.

 

[Pianobob]

Again, thanks for everyone's input. This wouldn't be my first try at fiberglass laminating. I did a decent job in my first attempt last spring in patching up a damaged floor in the cockpit. This sounds like the way to go.