Maine your skewing the argument to obtain/match your own 'results'.
First of all, if you didnt know exactly what the original finish (oil based or urethane) on those panels you'd simply not be able to slap on Watco and expect the same results in color match.
I did not know what the "original" finish was nor do I on other boats I work on unless the factory can tell me, the owner knows or other folks in an owners association. Supposedly our boat left the factory in 1979 with a "teak oil". No one knows or recalls what it was in 1979 as apparently the company went out of business and they switched finishes. I simply took a pic of that cabinet because I happend to be working on the boat getting her ready for tomorrows launch. I can take some of customers boats too. I have examples from Ericsons, Sabre's, Cape Dory and others...
That you KNOW that these panels 'were' originally finished with Watco makes it a no brainer for use of the same and to expect a barest minimum difference in color match.
Again I had no clue what the original finish was only what product the previous owners put
over the original finish back in the early 80's.
I made a test stick out of the scrap new teak and used Watco and many other finishes to try and get the closest natural looking match. Once the pigmented products were cured I put the same product over it that the PO's used as an interior finish and the did a side by side until I decided on which one looked the best and I thought would age out the best.. This is how I normally do it tint an actual piece of the new teak, with multiple products, let cure and then finish with what ever the boat has as it's top finish coat.. Watco Mahogany, two coats, was the closest match on this project. On some Sabre's & Cape Dory's I have found Watco Cherry or a mix works well..
Second, the discussion is Higgs boat, where he probably doesnt know even the nature of the original finish (oil based or urethane, etc.). I would guess that he doesnt want to strip out the entire remaining finish and then recoat the entire sole with Watco.
The Watco was never suggested as a "finish" just to get the tone of the wood close to what he has now, then to over coat it with what ever he currently uses. I don't recommend Watco as a final finish for a sole nor would I recommend varnish for this. I have over coated Watco with everything from a urethane to polyurethane to Cetol and spar varnish. You just need to let it fully cure and it takes a top coat quite well..
He simply wants a close match to what he has, which is probably an unknown finish at this point but quite probably a urethane. Watco, unless he re-does the entire sole, simply isnt going to be an 'easy' solution in Higgs case for his SOLE.
If his sole is simply oiled then no, but if it already has a polyurethane or other top coat then he can use the Watco to bring the new piece into the tone of the old then top coat once fully cured... Even brand new teak boards rarely match up color wise. I usually bring an old piece with me when buying teak to get the closest color match. Some is really "blonde" and some red and some in the brownish family.. I have tried many stains from many manufacturers and they look like stained teak. The Dansih oil looks like naturally aged teak. I like that look better.
Higgs can obviously do what he want's I merely made a suggestion that has worked for me many, many, many times and I know it "can", you said it "can't".....
Do you really use or recommend Watco for soles????? ... very hard to believe.
;-)
Never have as a top coat, never would, but for blending new teak to old, when a top coat will go over it sure, I've done it.....
This is actually what I said:
Maine Sail said:
Take some scrap pieces of the new wood and apply different Watco colors, then the finish you have on the rest of the floor, and see what matches best..
The "
then the finish you have on the rest of the floor" is the key part in determining that I did not recommend Watco as a final finish just a tone matcher......
