Mast Step - My Turn

[Chuck Petty]

First of all, many thanks to the archives and photo forum on this site, especially to David Foster for his many H27 posts including the one regarding what makes up the “in-between” area from the compression post and the mast step (Search on “Check the mast step”).Second, this is being posted on the Cherubini forum. My apologies to all you folks that have picked this up by looking at recent activities and really aren’t interested in this rather long and fairly specific topic.Now to my problems:1. Wet spots on the port side at the top of the compression post.2. Wet spots and rot along the base of the starboard bulkhead.3. Buckling (bulging enough to make the door stick) of the starboard bulkhead My reading of the symptoms indicates that the most likely problem is deterioration of the cabin top between the top of the compression post and the mast step due to water damage, most likely where the mast wiring goes through the cabin top. Potentially this could extend to compression post and/or cabin sole issues. We all know how these projects can expand to exceed the contents of the wallet and the time available to complete them.The plan is to:1. Pray that the problem is limited to the mast step area.2. Have the mast un-stepped. ($300 – un-step/step/basic rig tune)3. Continue to pray that the problem is limited to the mast step area.4. Inspect and repair as necessary mast components.5. Did I say pray that the problem is limited to the mast step area.6. Inspect and repair the cabin top / mast step area.7. Keep praying that the problem is limited to the mast step area.8. Have the mast stepped and rig tuned.9. Go sailing.If I fail steps 1, 3, 5, or 7, put the boat on the market as a project boat. Just kidding, actually it will be to completely redo the woodwork in the head/vanity area including both bulkheads and repair the cabin sole as necessary. This is a project that I was hoping to defer until 2005 when the bottom will need painting. (The boat was half sunk in a prior life and there is cosmetic water damage) Note to Fred, I wish I could plant her in the back yard for this project but the homeowners association would not be impressed.This will be an “in the water” project. My marina has no facilities to put the boat on the hard unless it is on a trailer, which I do not have. Additionally, this is Texas and the sailing season is ongoing given enough water in the lake, the right wind, and the temp above 50 (admiral’s rule). Unfortunately, this will violate my rule of not doing anything to the boat that I cannot put back together and go sailing in a couple of hours.My request:1. Pictures of the mast step area (with mast un-stepped) to include: Intact Damaged Ripped apart Detail on how the wires are connected or run Areas that water may be trapped by design Sizes and shapes of the plywood and/or balsa used to build up this area (or per David’s suggestion the aluminum plate)2. Written descriptions of the above. 3. Suggestions for improvement.4. Information on what is between the sole liner and the hull in the head/vanity area. Mine is not accessible, although I have seen pictures of H27’s where there are floorboards here. 4. Moral supportI rate this as a 1.5 on the liters of scotch scale. I can be reached through the owner’s directory.Many ThanksChuck PettyS/V Following Sea

 

[David Foster]

Quick suggestion

(This is why I shouldn't look at this site at work!)Chuck, I'll provide some other specific answers later, but I wanted to give you some advice on unstepping the mast. This job is pretty much generic among the boats of our vintage (70-85) with simple spreaders and before the B&R rig. So you might be able to find a buddy who has pulled his mast and tuned it to help you out. The Admiral and I have done it, and three people assures calm at all times. The only variation in the scheme (compared to other boats) may be unhooking the electrical connections once the mast has been very carefully lifted 6 to 10 inches off the step.In any case, be sure to be present while it is being done - you will be able to manage it yourself the next time. I learned the basics volunteering to help a guy put up his mast on a 34 footer he had just trucked north from Florida. The procedure is also in the archives, as is the tuning procedure.DavidLady Lillie

 

[David Foster]

More thoughts

Once you get the mast down, you remove the aluminum step that is through bolted with the nuts in the head just offset from the compression post.The wires on our boat were run through a plastic pipe which you probably won't be able to get out at this point. Measure and photograph the step area to guide later reconstruction.Then cut through the first fiberglass layer of the deck, around the pad that sits on top of it to support the aluminum step. How big to make the hole? We cut a couple of inches fore and aft of the pad, and about 18 inches wide. You definitely want to expose any areas of the core that are spongy.Then you pull out the rotten core, cleaning back until you hit clean, dry wood. We had to work 3 to 6 inches back under the remaining top layer with a chisel to do this. You may have to cut off more deck to do the job. Not to worry, once you are rebuilding the fiberglass deck, covering more area is not much of an issue of time, or complexity. The pipe with the electric cables can now be pulled up, disassembled, and left aside for later.Now the rebuilding starts. We used aluminum and epoxy with filler to replace the core. If you need to fill a larger area, I would use an impermiable plastic material. You could just replace it with end cut balsa like the original, but I wanted a solution that would spread the load, and prevent future wood rot.The key to replacing the fiberglass is to cure each layer, and feather the edges on the old deck - get a good book for the exact dimensions and techniques. Then you rebuild the pad on the deck (with aluminum or wood core again). Finally, you locate, and redrill an oversized hole for the plastic pipe, fill it with epoxy and filler to seal the final hole drilled for a good fit to the pipe.Then it's reassemble with 5200 around the pipe, under the boot, and where the pipe (and wires) come up through the boot, and you are ready for the mast.A couple of other comments. You can do the work on the water, but you will want to set up a tent to protect the work from the weather. You also need the area to be warm enough to cure the fiberglass and epoxy. Also, check the cabin/door/compression post after you have the mast down. Ours had sprung back to its original shape, so we knew collapse of the step sandwich was the real problem.Good luck - we are here to help if you have more questions.DavidLady Lillie

 

[Chuck Petty]

Thanks David

Your two responses are very helpful. I wish that I could unstep the mast myself, but, it is a small marina the mast tower is owned by one of the business there. I am confident enough in my fiberglass skills to do this project. I just don't want too many supprises as I dig into this.Next questions (not just for David)....Is there a particular grade/alloy of aluminum to use when sandwiching into the cabin top?Any guesses as to the approximate thickness of each layer (fiberglass/balsa/plywwod)?

 

[David Foster]

A couple of answers

I don't remember the thickness of the pad and its covering fiberglass.The the balsa core is 1 inch, and the fiberglass layers on either side are a little less than a quarter of an inch.DavidLady Lillie