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If you look at the pictures of his mast foot, it appears that the cast aluminum protrusion that locks into the slot on the existing cast aluminum deck plate is gone. There is no longer a way to keep the mast foot is place with the existing deck plate. Since that that Rig Rite mast foot is no longer produced, the owner does not have a lot of options other than to mount the Rig Rite mast foot to the Dwyer stainless steel hinged tabernacle that is shown above. I have used a 10 foot long gin pole arrangement (made of 3" square aluminum tube, large U bolts to wrap around the mast mounted to the gin pole, and block and tackle) to step and unstep my mast for the last four years without a problem. I get assistance in the process from a local sailboat repair person but I also used his assistance when the boat yard had an overhead rope and pulley to step and unstep masts.That is a SELDEN base. Unless you plan on stepping with a gin pole, it isn't necessary. Our base's pin ears were damaged by a yard that was using a crane to hinge lift the mast with a crane. The yard thought it quicker to hinge lift as opposed to a lift and step. The mast is basically too large to gin pole step and should be vertically stepped. If you can live with this, save the money that the hinge plates costs.
Stanley,I went thru this problem several years ago on my 1988 272LE. The original cast aluminum parts are no longer manufactured by Rig Rite. The original hinge pin arrangement on the Rig Rite unit was very fragile to begin with. I removed the mast foot by drilling out the rivets. I bought a Dwyer stainless steel hinged tabernacle (It is much stronger and has much better hinge pins). I took the cast aluminum mast foot and plate to a machine shop and had the protrusion on the mast foot ground off flat. The machine shop, then aligned the new Dwyer hinged tabernacle to the cast mast foot and drilled a 1/4" hole in all 4 corners of the mast foot and Dwyer top plate. I bolted the mast foot to the Dwyer top plate. This doesn't affect the internal halyards, etc. The machine shop also drilled 4 new holes in the Dwyer bottom plate to match the Rig Rite mast base so that the Dwyer holes would match the existing holes in my fiberglass deck. I also added a stainless steel Dwyer mast organizer plate so that I could attach various blocks, etc. to the arrangement. The Dwyer tabernacle with forward and rear hinge pins allows the mast to tilt forward or backwards. I had a machine shop do the drilling because the stainless steel Dwyer tabernacle is really tough to drill thru (even with my 14" drill press). If you go this route, then all of your stays and shroud lengths will remain almost the same and can be adjusted out with your existing turnbuckles. I believe that the parts and machine shop work cost me about $300.
Great, thank you for the additional information, this should be all I need. The text was enough, everything is clear now, no photos necessary. Thank you!Hi!
I do not have photos on hand but I can take some when I go to my boat this weekend. You will need the larger 4" X 6 1/2" hinge because your mast is about 3 1/2" X 5 or 5 1/2". You will have to grind off the bottom protrusion of your mast foot because it originally slotted into the Rig Rite deck plate and will prevent the mast foot from sitting flat on the new Dwyer top plate so that the mast foot can be bolted to it. The original mast foot should be easy to grind down because it is made of cast aluminum. You could have a machine shop cut out a slot in the Dwyer top plate but that would probably weaken your new tabernacle hinge. This arrangement is much better than the original design.