Mast cutting!

repawn · Sep 7, 2016

Looking at it I would guess you could take an inch off the mast - then maybe remove the tabernacle and build up the base to make up for the inch lost on the mast - a piece of teak or starboard possibly. Or, since you already had an issue with a stay - just have new stays made that match the new mast height.

Justin_NSA · Sep 7, 2016

How much more corrosion does the boat have? Yu may want to do a total assessment and make that decision.

shemandr · Sep 7, 2016

Brett C said:
...And first the tiller snapped. Second the motor wouldn't start. No big deal we got a ride in.While docked and banging up against the dock the forestay let loose and the mast came crashing down on the deck...

Other than that Mrs. Lincoln...
I don't see why you couldn't cut an inch off the mast and raise the mast step an inch. You would want to make sure the deck around the mast is sound. I know this has been done on at least one keel boat. The other problems are manageable but you sound a bit overwhelmed. I hope the more experienced sailors with you didn't give you a to-do list. I wouldn't decide just yet. Give it the tincture of time and see if the two good days make up for the bad one. If not it may be time to move on.
As for your ego wounding, we've all had that - I guarantee.

rgranger · Sep 7, 2016

Or you could drill new holes a half inch away from the corroded holes and put new pop-rivets in. That would be the easiest ... and you won't create any new alignment problems. Take the current mast base, place it in the mast, drill new holes and rivet. or if you don't have a rivet gun, use an aluminum bolt. Done!

CloudDiver · Sep 7, 2016

Bret, don't sweat it; easy fix.
Yes, cut one inch off the bottom of the mast to remove the damage. Then use a 1 inch thick spacer block between the cast aluminum mast step and the hinged mast base. This will help prevent further corrosion by isolating the cast aluminum from the stainless steel hinged base. Also, attach the mast to the cast aluminum mast step with aluminum rivets, not stainless steel. That will prevent the corrosion from happening in the same place which weakened the aluminum around the holes. It is not necessary to use stainless rivets in this application, although they are stronger than aluminum the damage they cause in dissimilar metal corrosion negates the strength difference. The sheer strength of aluminum rivets just to hold spar base to the mast step is plenty for this application.
I can't be certain of the size of the old rivets in the picture, but they look like 1/4 inch diameter. Due to the corrosion damage you'd either have to drill out the holes to the next larger size or make new holes in a different position. Aluminum rivets only go up to 1/4 inch, so repositioning might be your best choice.
Here is a link to structural aluminum Rivets on McMaster-Carr;
http://www.mcmaster.com/#98778a504/=142ds1r

That mast step needs to be cleaned up badly. A soak in CLR should break down the corrosion scale. What is better than that, if you have an AirGas or other welding supply shop around, is to get a phosphoric acid based metal descaler/degreaser. That stuff will dissolve all that white chalky corrosion. There are other cleaners specifically for aluminum, but they aren't always the best a dissolving scale/corrosion... ask the sales rep. If you can get it cleaned up really good its possible to weld those holes shut rather than try to drill them out larger.
You'll need longer bolts to attach the mast step back to the hinged base with the 1 inch spacer in between. Just get those at ace hardware. Use tef-gel on the bolt shaft and under the head where it will make contact with the aluminum mast step.
The Catalina 22 Mast step kit should work for you so you don't have to buy a bigger piece of king starboard and cut it up;
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/1711_28/mast-step-shim-kit-c-22-85.cfm

Apex · Sep 7, 2016

thorough cleaning, and assess codition of surrounding material. i 2nd rangers solution, of putting in new rivets in new location. Cloudiver advice on cleaning up is sound.

markwbird · Sep 7, 2016

I am not sure why there are pop rivets there at all. My boat does not have them. The mast just rests atop the base. No screws. No rivets. The stays hold the mast down. If the corrosion is not too bad I would not even cut the bottom off. If it is, it's no big deal taking off an inch or so. Make sure the standing rigging is in good shape. If not replace it.

Charlie Jones s/v Tehani · Sep 7, 2016

markwbird said:
I am not sure why there are pop rivets there at all. My boat does not have them. The mast just rests atop the base. No screws. No rivets. The stays hold the mast down. If the corrosion is not too bad I would not even cut the bottom off. If it is, it's no big deal taking off an inch or so. Make sure the standing rigging is in good shape. If not replace it.

That base is a hinge for stepping the mast.. HAS to be riveted. I agree with the rest- cut an inch off, ,and add a spacer under the step. Or make new rigging, if the headstay broke

capta · Sep 7, 2016

Unless you intend on racing, I'd just cut the 1" off the bottom of the mast and have a new set of wires made up. If one wire already broke, then I'd be thinking it's time to change them all out. Next time the mast falls you and those aboard might not be so lucky.
One inch is not going to make any noticeable difference to the sailing, IMO. I won't change anything on the mainsail, but perhaps you'll need to shorten the jib an inch, but more than likely you've a shackle that can come out to make up any difference shortening the headstay an inch may create.
Guys, those are Phillips screws, not rivets in the base to hold the mast.

dlochner · Sep 7, 2016

What you have is not a mast step in the same sense that big boats have a mast step. You have a tabernacle. The rivets hold the mast to the "step" which is bolted to the SS bracket that has 2 pins in it. If you pull the forward pin the mast will pivot back on the aft pin making it easier to raise and lower the mast.

I'm not sure that I would cut the mast. That just creates more issues.

Find a welder who works with aluminum. Ask if the holes can be filled with new aluminum. If so, do it.

It goes without saying the corrosion needs to be cleaned up. When you reattach the mast to the tabernacle, use heavy duty aluminum rivets.

Go sailing and enjoy!

Charlie Jones s/v Tehani · Sep 7, 2016

capta said:
Guys, those are Phillips screws, not rivets in the base to hold the mast.

Better look again. Clearly rivets.

capta · Sep 7, 2016

TSBB 2 said:
Better look again. Clearly rivets.

Indeed. Do I get to blame old age?

CloudDiver · Sep 7, 2016

I saw some prices for shrouds/stays for the Rhodes 19... Something like $630 for the complete kit, and that's on sale from around $900. Maybe I'm looking at the wrong site, Stuart Marine? What would you say to a complete set of Standing Rigging in Dyneema including new turnbuckles for about half that cost? Yup, I can probably do that... just a ball park without knowing the exact lengths, but its somewhat close.
Edit. Crap, O'Day 19 and Rhodes 19 are diff, right? For reason I though they were the same class, just manufactured by more than one company.

CloudDiver · Sep 7, 2016

BTW, I really can't see anything wrong with your spreaders from the picture... Better pics might help. The bolt holding it to the tang isn't corroded which is a good sign. So the are loose in what sense?

capta · Sep 7, 2016

W

CloudDiver said:
I saw some prices for shrouds/stays for the Rhodes 19... Something like $630 for the complete kit, and that's on sale from around $900. Maybe I'm looking at the wrong site, Stuart Marine? What would you say to a complete set of Standing Rigging in Dyneema including new turnbuckles for about half that cost? Yup, I can probably do that... just a ball park without knowing the exact lengths, but its somewhat close.

Want to give me a quote on a Pearson 530 ketch in Dyneema? I think my turnbuckles are OK though. We agree on a price and you and a friend can have a week free aboard down here while we install it. Sound good?

CloudDiver · Sep 7, 2016

capta said:
W

Want to give me a quote on a Pearson 530 ketch in Dyneema? I think my turnbuckles are OK though. We agree on a price and you and a friend can have a week free aboard down here while we install it. Sound good?

I'll PM you.

Rick Webb · Sep 7, 2016

I'd just drill new holes and pop in new rivets. This aint rocket surgery.

Keep an eye on it and if you start to see it cracking where the rivets are now then cut off a half or three quarters on an inch and you can probably make that up with your turnbuckles.

Charlie Jones s/v Tehani · Sep 7, 2016

capta said:
Indeed. Do I get to blame old age?

ROFL Sure Why not?

repawn · Sep 7, 2016

FWIW I just replaced all standing rigging on my O'day 22 - new turnbuckles and all - for about $400 - that was from Rigging Only - I would guess it may be cheaper for a smaller boat.

Mast cutting!

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