Massive Coronary only Minutes from the Marina

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Apr 22, 2009
342
Pearson P-31 Quantico
Massive Coronary only Minutes from the Marina -11 Jul Update

FIRST -- it wasn't me, or even a person, but rather my Pearson. I tell that to you upfront because I do not want to burn up good karma. But is does leave me, now, out planning what to do.

Updated at BOTTOM of this post.

It is probably a guy thing. You know, that you have some serious issue but either because the answer is inconvenient or expensive, or might alter whatever plans you had, you ignore it. It is certainly true for me.

I have been having some problems over the past few months. It all came to a sudden thud, last weekend (9-10 April), while going up to the DISC hosted, Geico cup, then at the regatta, and then as we left DISC to travel home.

Regardless of how incapacitating the events became, I tried to Rx it all, myself. My regular crewmates, Peter and Shirley were also concerned. But neither many friends who had advice that something was wrong, nor I, really saw this coming.

Thank goodness, Sunday evening, my daughter Annabel was with me. I thought she might drive our support truck back from DISC/WSM but she chose to ride GOOD TRADE. I had issues nearly the whole way home. I spoke to a friend at about 8 PM but did not tell him how poorly things were.

Then, at 9 PM, quite literally just off the pier, maybe 100 feet short of the south wall, with the tide just beginning to turn, we had what might best be called massive heart failure.

It was one of those things. We were motoring along and then nothing. No cough, no gasp, no last moment fit. Just --- NOTHING! The Atomic Four in my Pearson P-31 just stopped. And it isn't restarting.

When we crank it over, using our hand as a choke, there is NO SUCTION from the throat of the carburetor. I am going to get a compression guage (or maybe just my finger) and see, but I expect -- NO COMPRESSION?

Assuming that the heart of my dear GOOD TRADE is gone, at least parts of it, what can you recommend?

Valves, only, maybe?

Rebuild the whole original or replace with a rebuilt Atomic Four?

What about replacing the motor altogether and diesel?

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

TO BETTER DERIBE THE PROBLEM, this has been going on, perhaps, for a while, but just like heart problems, I ignored the pain, right?

Over the past year my motor has gotten to be very hard to start. In the past month, it got to be, where, if I had it running, it would run and then cut out. To strat it, I would have to vigorously pump the throttle handle.

Over the weekend, the only way to start it was to completely cover the air intake, and fully choke the motor. Then, as it would run, it would eventually bog down and run down to a stop. The weekend, when we were under motor, was full choke, start, run a while, maybe 20 minutes, and stop.

Then, Sunday, it stopped, once more but stayed stopped. Choking did not help. Moving the throttle back and forth did not help.

I passed the helm to Annabel, ran forward, and tossing my anchor ahead, drew GOOD TRADE the last 100 or so feet to the pier. TALK ABOUT LUCKY, I with the Lotto was so well timed for me.

Once at the dock and once I had time to try again, I took note, IT APEARS that now I have NO SUCTION via the air intake.

That is, it appears that it is not a fuel issue, I hae fuel up to the bowl. It is not spark, at lkeast it wasn't an hour, or even minutes before. But NOW? Hey, I will check the spark in the TUESDAY PM timeframe.

I also have had time to remember that I had a Ford F-150 that had a motor so worn out that the only way to start it was to take a Coke can of gas and dump 8 to 12 ounces of gasoline down the throat. Once it was running, it ran, with little power. We eventually swapped out a rebuilt motor.

S, now, I need to come to the decision of issue, and solutions. I have about a 60 day non-sailing = ie non-racing window to fix this.

Thanks for all the postings and suggestions.

Sincerely;
Robert

Saturday - 16 June - I went to the boat and took out the spark plugs. Putting finger on top of hole, I confirmed, front two cylinders had compression -- the back two did not. Descriptively writing, the front cylinders "popped" my finger off the spark plug holes, the back two only created a "whoosh-wish" sound with no sensation of pressure under my finger.

NEXT, I may have jumped the gun, but, knowing that my engine definitely a compression issue, I removed the head, and the side panel. Please see picture.

Cylinders look well polished with no major, or even minor, vertical scratched or gouges in walls. Cylinders hold WD-40, that is to say, it appears that the rings are "OK." At least they exist.

Back four valves appear to have bits of black crud under them that prevent a tight seal. I write "appear" because as it took hours to take off head, I was just about beat, beat, beat, when I took final pictures and said "enough for one day."

To the guys who offered I PB Blast the crap out of the valves, I probably should have or maybe would have, but I really wanted to see the issue. Yes, I am into this now to the tune of at least three or five gaskets (one of two head gaskets (had only one before). thermostat, intake/exhaust manifold, and side panel.)

OIL is clear, full bodied, looks like it does out of the can, with no metal and no water in it.

The tappets, where they are always exposed are blackened by oil and years of exposure, but where they fall down towards the cam are bright and polished to a mirror shine. All the tappets appear to rise and fall with no hesitation.

WHAT TO DO NOW? Remove valves and take to machine shop, buy new, clean in place, remove and clean?

THANK YOU!

Robert

Arrival in Wednesday's mail -- PARTS, MANUAL, and TOOLS

Monday -- 9 July UPDATE --

Can we say CARBON PLEASE? I wanted to do this a week ago but the heat was just too much. So, I moved a small home AC down to the boat and blowing cool air into the campanion way, I was able to tolerate the temperature.

Carbon and other goo was covering the valves and exhaust flow. On two of my INTAKE valves, the keepers were so corroded that they would not release with the valve tool. As I am replacing the springs already, I used the dremel tool to cut them apart and then osed a socet and hammer to tap the valve keepers free.

Today (did not go to work) I plan to begin re-assembly. Posted one new picture (took more but have only one available). The dark shadow is 3/8 of an inch of carbon.

Add to the problems, blown head gasket -- see shadow of carbon between three and four.
 

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Feb 2, 2012
12
Oday 27 Aqualand Marina
Have an Atomic 4 in my 27. Exhause valve on #1 broke, broken valve head banged around and ate up the valve seat and took a piece out of the intake valve. Ended up pulling engine and taking it home. Spent the winter rebuilding (disassembly, take block to machine shop to get new valve seat & cyl's honed, etc. Engine is "easy" to rebuild if you take your time and take pictures as you disassemble (how the #@% did that go back together ?). Just be aware that, in spite of its small size, that little engine is one HEAVY chunk of iron.
Results are a strong, good running engine. Best thing I did after rebuild was to replace the existing main jet with an adjustable one from Moyer. Now it fires up and runs like a top almost instantly even after two weeks of sitting.
If you have the time and patience, rebuilding yourself is (relatively) inexpensive and rewarding. Moyer Marine is your best (maybe only) resource in terms of parts and expertise.
Good luck!
 
May 11, 2005
3,431
Seidelman S37 Slidell, La.
Hhhmmmmmmmmmmmmm

I am not at all familiar with the Atomic 4, but am familiar with the basic workings of gasoline engines. From your statement, no suction, I would instantly dismiss any ignition problem.
And also a valve or something similar on a single cylinder. Look for something like a broken camshaft, or timing chain/gear. Something that is going to eliminate all the valves opening/closing. If you have absolutely no intake suction, there is something wrong that is effecting all 4 cylinders.
 
Sep 5, 2007
689
MacGregor 26X Rochester
Look for something like a broken camshaft, or timing chain/gear. Something that is going to eliminate all the valves opening/closing. If you have absolutely no intake suction, there is something wrong that is effecting all 4 cylinders.
My first thought, as well. Unless all the con rods fell off at the same time, I can't think of anything else other than a broken timing chain (or gear) that would do that.

I don't know the Atomic 4, but some engines drive the distributor off the cam shaft. I'd pop the cap and see if it's turning. If not, it's almost certainly the timing chain or gear train. If it is, that doesn't rule out the timing chain, as the distributor may be driven off the crank (usually easy enough to see from how it's mounted, though).
 
Feb 20, 2011
8,062
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
I'd expect a hell of a lot more commotion if a valve or cam chain gave way. To hear the OP tell it, sure sounds electrical.
I have been having some problems over the past few months.
Could you elaborate?
 

CalebD

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Jun 27, 2006
1,479
Tartan 27' 1967 Nyack, NY
A line wrapped firmly around your prop shaft will also kill the engine as will a clogged or blocked fuel line (artery).
Another possible cause is a failed oil pressure safety switch (opss only installed with electric fuel pumps).
While I enjoyed the dramatic story you need to lay out the symptoms and your engine set up a bit more clinically. The guys at the Moyer Forums will have your A4 back up on it's engine mounts in no time.
http://www.moyermarine.com//forums/index.php
 
Oct 26, 2005
2,057
- - Satellite Beach, FL.
I'll toss my 2 bits in on something that affects all cylinders.
Maybe the head gasket? The crank wouldn't have given you any warning but maybe the head gasket would?
Hope it's relatively painless Robert.
 
May 24, 2004
7,215
CC 30 South Florida
As mentioned before the symptoms are consisten with the camshaft not turning. Remove the timing gear cover and inspect the gears. Broken gear or sheared coupler keys are a possibility. Picture of new gears on E-Bay $175.
 

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Nov 6, 2006
10,219
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
No suction at all.. as other posters have said, Timing chain? or whatever drives the cam besides the chain.. sprocket keys for instance..Just stripped a timing belt on a twin cam engine and one symptom was no suction..
 

MrUnix

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Mar 24, 2010
626
Hunter 23 Gainesville, FL
Had the same thing happen on a car once.. 4cyl chevy with a timing belt (not a chain). Driving along, turned into a shopping center and it just stopped running. No indication of a problem, no stuttering or spitting, nothing.. just running one second and silence the next. Sure enough, it was the timing belt that gave out and broke. Fortunately, it was an easy fix and only involved removing a front cover. Hope yours is as easy!

Cheers,
Brad
 
Jun 11, 2011
1,243
Hunter 41 Lewes
I would say timing chain/gear problem. Can be instantaneous and if there is enough clearance between the valves and piston it can also be noise free.
 
Nov 23, 2011
2,023
MacGregor 26D London Ontario Canada
I would say timing chain/gear problem. Can be instantaneous and if there is enough clearance between the valves and piston it can also be noise free.
Just a note to add here. If there was noise and isn't anymore there might be new clearance between the valves and the pistons made by the pistons hitting and bending the valves.
What ever it is in the end it might be a good idea to change the oil and look for bits of metal in it.
Good luck.
 
Feb 20, 2011
8,062
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
Had the same thing happen on a car once.. 4cyl chevy with a timing belt (not a chain). Driving along, turned into a shopping center and it just stopped running. No indication of a problem, no stuttering or spitting, nothing.. just running one second and silence the next. Sure enough, it was the timing belt that gave out and broke. Fortunately, it was an easy fix and only involved removing a front cover. Hope yours is as easy!

Cheers,
Brad
You may be almost as lucky as me!
 
Apr 22, 2009
342
Pearson P-31 Quantico
Electrical?
We have spark. Plugs are dry, not oily. But it seems to NOT suck air through the carb.

Turns over, no sweat.

In the last day, it would start only if we covered the flame arrestor with a hand, choking the crap out of the engine.
 
Apr 22, 2009
342
Pearson P-31 Quantico
A line wrapped . . .

failed oil pressure safety switch (opss only installed with electric fuel pumps).

the dramatic story

Moyer . . . http://www.moyermarine.com//forums/index.php

No line wrapped . . . I can se the shaft turning.

Failed oil pressure safety switch (opss only installed with electric fuel pumps) . . . maybe, but the fule bowl has gas, but even ether does not fire up as I have no suction via carb.


the dramatic story . . . Thanks!

Moyer . . . http://www.moyermarine.com//forums/index.php already talked to them (last week) as I had the start of the engine bogging down and then just dying. Ow!

Thanks!
 
Apr 22, 2009
342
Pearson P-31 Quantico
Had the same thing happen on a car once.. just stopped running. .. it was the timing belt that gave out and broke. Fortunately, it was an easy fix and only involved removing a front cover. Hope yours is as easy!

Cheers,
Brad

Brad -- ah, that makes some sense too. And yes, I did the same back in the day.
 
Feb 20, 2011
8,062
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
We have spark. Plugs are dry, not oily. But it seems to NOT suck air through the carb.

Turns over, no sweat.

In the last day, it would start only if we covered the flame arrestor with a hand, choking the crap out of the engine.
Fuel/air mixture, compression, and a spark at the right time.
Checked your distributor/rotor for any broken parts?
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
I have had timing gears or chains break on three engines and it is always the same: a complete quiet shut down. When the cam stops turning everything quits.
 
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