My boat came with an electric head which worked great until just recently. For expediency, I just took off the electric pump and replaced it with the boat's original manual pump. This is my first experience with 'pumping'. I did replace the joker valve when I put the manual pump on. So my point is I know what the joker valve is; but is there also a gasket(flap)that works to keep the water from flowing back? I can pump for ten minutes and only a fraction of the water is removed (it all comes back onto the bowl when I depress the handle, nothing stops it from being pumped right back into athe base of the toliet). Doing a little research it seems it might be the base valve gasket Jabsco part number 29043-0000. I do have a gasket(no flap) in there but it was the one that was on the pump when I had the electric pump. Do I need a different gasket? As usual thanks for all the great help. Jane "Echo" 1996 29.5
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Two possibilities
Do you feel any backpressure when you pump the toilet? If so, that's a sign that your holding vent is clogged, pressurizing the tank and preventing anything more from being pumped into it. Or...do you just pump and pump and nothing's happening as far as any waste leaving the bowl? That would indicate the problem is in the toilet pump...that what you're seeing isn't backflow, it's just bowl contents that aren't making it through the pump. In which case, I'd say, yes...the right gasket for the manual pump should help.
Do you feel any backpressure when you pump the toilet? If so, that's a sign that your holding vent is clogged, pressurizing the tank and preventing anything more from being pumped into it. Or...do you just pump and pump and nothing's happening as far as any waste leaving the bowl? That would indicate the problem is in the toilet pump...that what you're seeing isn't backflow, it's just bowl contents that aren't making it through the pump. In which case, I'd say, yes...the right gasket for the manual pump should help.
Jabsco's Website
Jane, It's been a while since I had to rebuild a head, however check Jabsco's Website (http://www.jabsco.com) if you haven't already. You ought to be able to pump the bowl dry in just a few strokes. When you replaced the electric pump, did you replace the "wet/dry" selector valve? Your manual pump may need to be rebuilt if it wasn't new. If it was, perhaps others on this site can give you better info. Fair winds, Steve S/V Options
Jane, It's been a while since I had to rebuild a head, however check Jabsco's Website (http://www.jabsco.com) if you haven't already. You ought to be able to pump the bowl dry in just a few strokes. When you replaced the electric pump, did you replace the "wet/dry" selector valve? Your manual pump may need to be rebuilt if it wasn't new. If it was, perhaps others on this site can give you better info. Fair winds, Steve S/V Options
Thanks Again! Head Pump Gasket
There is no pressure against the handle when I pump. And you're right it's not backflow as much as it is the contents of the bowl remaining. Bad news, of course, is that I just can't buy the gasket, I need to buy an entire pump assembly
jane
There is no pressure against the handle when I pump. And you're right it's not backflow as much as it is the contents of the bowl remaining. Bad news, of course, is that I just can't buy the gasket, I need to buy an entire pump assembly
janeNooooo....
You don't have to replace the whole pump to replace the gasket...all the seals, gaskets etc are in the rebuild kit--about $50. The only question is whether to put ANY money into a toilet that can be replaced with the identical toilet for about $100. I wouldn't. The real questions are...do you want to keep a manual toilet or install another electric? If you want to keep a manual toilet, do you want the cheapest toilet or one that'll last 20 years if you just keep it lubricated and rebuild it about once every 5 years (Raritan PH II for about $250--industry rated the best manual toilet under $500). If you want to go back to electric, your best choice is the Raritan SeaEra--costs about the same, consumes about half the power of the one you removed...is available as either a conversion or a complete toilet, and in both raw water and pressurized water versions. Check 'em both out on the Raritan website at http://www.raritaneng.com And while you're there, take a look at the Lectra/San (CG certified Type I MSD that treats waste and discharges it overboard) too...the Bay is not "no discharge" and treatment is a much sounder ecological solution to onboard waste than holding tanks.
You don't have to replace the whole pump to replace the gasket...all the seals, gaskets etc are in the rebuild kit--about $50. The only question is whether to put ANY money into a toilet that can be replaced with the identical toilet for about $100. I wouldn't. The real questions are...do you want to keep a manual toilet or install another electric? If you want to keep a manual toilet, do you want the cheapest toilet or one that'll last 20 years if you just keep it lubricated and rebuild it about once every 5 years (Raritan PH II for about $250--industry rated the best manual toilet under $500). If you want to go back to electric, your best choice is the Raritan SeaEra--costs about the same, consumes about half the power of the one you removed...is available as either a conversion or a complete toilet, and in both raw water and pressurized water versions. Check 'em both out on the Raritan website at http://www.raritaneng.com And while you're there, take a look at the Lectra/San (CG certified Type I MSD that treats waste and discharges it overboard) too...the Bay is not "no discharge" and treatment is a much sounder ecological solution to onboard waste than holding tanks.
I know what happening
Greetings, One key piece of evidence is your statement that there is no pressure or resistence on the downstroke of the pump, as a result nothing was leaving the bowl at all. This happened to me two weeks ago with my Jabsco toilet (1991 vintage). I took the pump assembly apart (carefully) by removing the four (screws at the top) and gingerly repomoved the piston assembly. What I discovered is that the lower piston assembly that creates the down pressure is held in place by a minute circlip that engages a narrow groove in the rode. This is all that prevents the lower pistin head from floating up the rode as you push down. The circlip had split after 12 years of use. I found a suitable (although not identical) circlip at a marine mechanics shop and installed it instead of the original. I backed this up with a small gasline pressure clamp over some electrical tape (to provide more friction for the clamp to grab). We have been on the boat for a solid two weeks since the repair, and so far it is working well. As to the flaps that are part of the gaskets at both the top and bottom of the punp assemply. Mine has two flaps at the top and one at the bottom. You say that there is no flap on the lower gasket? Well, one would not need one with an electric pump. Perhaps you do not have in place the lower gasket that was originally part of the manual punp assembly. Let me know whether my hunch is correct re: the circlip and the lower gasket flap. Good luck Jack
Greetings, One key piece of evidence is your statement that there is no pressure or resistence on the downstroke of the pump, as a result nothing was leaving the bowl at all. This happened to me two weeks ago with my Jabsco toilet (1991 vintage). I took the pump assembly apart (carefully) by removing the four (screws at the top) and gingerly repomoved the piston assembly. What I discovered is that the lower piston assembly that creates the down pressure is held in place by a minute circlip that engages a narrow groove in the rode. This is all that prevents the lower pistin head from floating up the rode as you push down. The circlip had split after 12 years of use. I found a suitable (although not identical) circlip at a marine mechanics shop and installed it instead of the original. I backed this up with a small gasline pressure clamp over some electrical tape (to provide more friction for the clamp to grab). We have been on the boat for a solid two weeks since the repair, and so far it is working well. As to the flaps that are part of the gaskets at both the top and bottom of the punp assemply. Mine has two flaps at the top and one at the bottom. You say that there is no flap on the lower gasket? Well, one would not need one with an electric pump. Perhaps you do not have in place the lower gasket that was originally part of the manual punp assembly. Let me know whether my hunch is correct re: the circlip and the lower gasket flap. Good luck Jack
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