The engine room on our First 38 is very tight. The alt. belt tension was a 4-handed job with only space for 2-hands. This mod. left change from $5. Correct tension should save some wear and tear on the belt.
It is superbly accurate!Just using the 3/8" deflexion by one finger method. Gauge looks like it would be much more accurate!
I do, too. Plus I have a belt tensioner like Rich mentioned to set it. 1/2" deflection on the long belt length is a good crosscheck.Any one else use this twist test for their belts?
Sharp fan blade on the alternator??????... what could have caused this type of damage?.
Nice, thanks for sharing. Ditto for the 1/4 turn trick.The engine room on our First 38 is very tight. The alt. belt tension was a 4-handed job with only space for 2-hands. This mod. left change from $5. Correct tension should save some wear and tear on the belt.View attachment 143344
With all due respect to John and others, the 3/8" thumb trick, and the 1/4 turn trick, are all very subjective, qualitative measures; that is, they are not quantitative, which is what this application demands. The reality is that if you don't severely under-do or over-do tension you won't damage anything, like the water pump bearings, and you won't slip. But I have found that I often had to tweak the belt tension to eliminate squeal with big alternator loads. And, I lost a water pump once, due to a failed bearing. So, without being to measure accurately, you are trading convenience for some degree of belt and bearing life, and perhaps utility (as in the squealing example).It you can twist it 1/4 turn (90 degrees) you have good tension on the belt.
Michael, am I looking at this wrong or is it the camera angle; but, given that the notches are running on the outside of the pulley, it appears that the belt is inside out,The engine room on our First 38 is very tight. The alt. belt tension was a 4-handed job with only space for 2-hands. This mod. left change from $5. Correct tension should save some wear and tear on the belt.