Ok everyone here I go. I am currently purchasing a project boat in sitka alaska. I will be living aboard her full time and I love reading everyone's advice about how difficult this is. I however grew up a fishermans son in Alaska and compared to what space I lived in as a fisherman a Catalina 27 is a yacht. Bunks bigger I have a place to hang a few shirts and since I ill be chained the the harbor for at least a year I will even have my chest freezer on back deck. My project will start first with insulation. In se alaska humidity is a funny word. Rain is a weekly routine at a minimum and I have memories of my bunk on my dads boat soaked every morning and having to prop it up with the focsle door open to the engine room to dry it out. I like the frugal Mariners approch except reflectex is wasted next to the hull. I plan on using furring strips also but 5200 is my go to adhesive. I plan on sanding/scuffing the interior just enough to get a good adhesion. I'm going to use 1/2 inch polyethylene self adhesive foam as it's the cheapest I've found. I'm going to glue it in and leave the adhesive facing inward. After I get the v berth completely sealed corner to corner top to bottom I'm thinking a few cans of spray on liquid rubber over everything the foam the blocking just make one big airtight seal over it all to completely remove any possibility of condensation creeping into the insulation pack. I'm gonna rip a bunch of ceder while I'm south. Down here where I have access to tools I want to get as much ready as possible since there isn't a lot of room on a Catalina to live and work. As far as my cedar I figure 1/8 thick by 1.5 wide and 8 ft sticksi. Should be easy enough to work with hand tools when I get north. I'm not sure if I want to cedar strip the ceiling or not I already have to bend my head, I'm 6.1 but I guess I can decide that later. When I'm done I want every part of the interior that's accesable with ought to much effort to have at least 1/2. To 3/4 inches of foam. If anyone has any advice I am all ears. Growing up on a fiberglass fishing boats I know my way around glass and boat but I don't know **** about sailing or sailboats. This is a big step for me it's my first "place" and I'm the type of guy when I care about a project I would rather it take forever and be perfect than rush it and end up with a jalopy. My dad and I are in Washington working on his fishing boat so I have until that's done to plan out my build purchase all the materials I will need while I am south where stores actually have the stuff you need. I recently scored about 200 ft of 3/4 schedule 40 pvc pipe and two big boxes of elbows and fitting so I am thinking about making a frame and tarping the whole boat once I get to alaska. We have a little fewer laws about sanding boats and such up there but I figure if I can work in the dry on a rainy day it might be worth it. The boat has a lump of rust that was once an atomic four.fingers crossed I can save enough this season to buy one of the diesel replacements. I don't like gas engines. Any way any thoughts would be helpful
Making a thermos for SE alaska
- Thread starter Tom Conatser
- Start date
The idea of insulation is good in a cold climate, but no amount of it.is going to cure the condensation or dampness.
In such a small space, even the moisture given off by your body will cause problems if you.dont have good positive ventilation.... heat will be necessary and a propane catyletic heater or stovetop will only give off more moisture.....
A newport diesel heater will create LOTS of heat, but very little positive ventilation... but bentilation ventilation can be added...
A forced air diesel heater is by far the best option to supply both heat and ventilation... cold outside air comes to the heater, gets heated and forced into the cabin, and pushes the moist damp stale air out the vents to the outside... the boat will always be dry...
So the advice i would give for the northern climate is... first, get the boat set up with good ventilation and install a first rate heating system.... with these two features installed on the boat, you will always be comfortable.... and second, after you get dry and comfortable, you can take he time to study the need for additional insulation.
I have seen this idea applied, and it made a colossal mess and was about as effective as one in sheet insulation (pink foam 4x8's at Home Dept). Which had been warmed and then applied with contact cement.
Unless your whole boat is insulated, which it will never be unless the manufacturer did it, you will be forever cussing.
I'd suggest doing the areas, such as bunks/berths, with the insulation where they are within one inch of the hull.
Then, presuming you are charging the batteries off a generator or alternator, I'd run a dehumidifier concurrently. We do something similar and it helps a lot.
Oh, and watch out for moisture from cooking...
Unless your whole boat is insulated, which it will never be unless the manufacturer did it, you will be forever cussing.
I'd suggest doing the areas, such as bunks/berths, with the insulation where they are within one inch of the hull.
Then, presuming you are charging the batteries off a generator or alternator, I'd run a dehumidifier concurrently. We do something similar and it helps a lot.
Oh, and watch out for moisture from cooking...
No worries about electricity I'll be on shore power and I plan on the dehumidifier being my primary expense. The original owner sold the dickens stove that was onboard and I'm currently trying to locate a replacement. Craigslist is good but most people who have a dickens know what they are worth and I don't have a grand to spend on one now. I know ventilation is good and important but it's just one part of the condensation problem. I'll update pics of my project as I have a little bit different spin on it than others I've seen.