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Mainstay issues - what type of furling system do I have?

Sep 11, 2019
76
Hunter 386 Lake St. Clair
Guys, looking for some tech information on our furler. Looks like there was halyard wrap when we purchased the boat. We have the mast stepped right now, as we had to fix some issues on Selden system. I've had one guy say it may be a facnor. If anyone knows the type and model, it would greatly be appreciated. Then maybe I can pick up a maintenance manual.
 

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Jan 11, 2014
6,594
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Based on the wire drum cage and the remains of the label it looks like an old Profurl unit. The twist in the forestay looks like ugly. Time for a new forestay and maybe a new furler.
 
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Mar 29, 2017
520
Hunter 30t 9805 littlecreek
Looks like your top bearing failed aaaand twisted your Headstay 19 strand
 
Sep 11, 2019
76
Hunter 386 Lake St. Clair
Is there a life expectancy on these? The reason I ask....our boat is a 2002 and pretty sure the system is original. Ordered new sails this fall. If I need to bite the bullet and start fresh, then so be it. If these things can last with some tlc, then maybe I should repair. I'll await a response from you experts :) As usual...thank you for the help!
 
Jan 7, 2011
2,280
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
My CDI furler is 30 years old. The stay may be shot, it the furler should be salvageable unless it was damaged.

Greg
 
Sep 11, 2019
76
Hunter 386 Lake St. Clair
I found some Profurl Basic 35 parts from my Sailboat Broker. Whew. Need some advice. Before removing the foils ( extrusions ) to replace the headstay cable, I need to take a measurement to extend the foil up to the top near the eyelet. I need to leave some room for the Wrapstop ( Hockey puck ). Do I take the extrusion up as close to the Eyelet as possible, or leave it an inch or two below? To remove the Eyelet, looks like there's only one screw. I assume I remove the screw and I will be able to maneuver the eyelet around so I can remove the mainstay cable? Do I have to worry about any nuts or washers on the inside of the Selden mast? Thanks,
 

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Jun 25, 2004
1,096
Corsair F24 Mk1 003 San Francisco Bay, CA
I found some Profurl Basic 35 parts from my Sailboat Broker. Whew. Need some advice. Before removing the foils ( extrusions ) to replace the headstay cable, I need to take a measurement to extend the foil up to the top near the eyelet. I need to leave some room for the Wrapstop ( Hockey puck ). Do I take the extrusion up as close to the Eyelet as possible, or leave it an inch or two below? To remove the Eyelet, looks like there's only one screw. I assume I remove the screw and I will be able to maneuver the eyelet around so I can remove the mainstay cable? Do I have to worry about any nuts or washers on the inside of the Selden mast? Thanks,
The damage to the head stay looks like damage from halyard wrap, caused by the wrap-stop donut being mounted too far down and the extrusion being too short.

You should read the manuals and instructions. Selden and Profurl both provide excellent documentation.Measurements are critical for safe operation.

Read the Profurl manual for their cruising series so you know how to install the furler properly. .


if you don’t read the manuals, you will screw up the installation royally, like the person who installed it last time. Read the instructions completely. As the commercials on TV used to say “Don’t be like him” (her).;)

To answer your question about the forestay fitting, look at Selden’s Mast catalogue,
pg 22

The manuals are a far better source of comprehensive info with detailed instructions and drawings. After you read the manuals, don’t hesitate to ask specific questions here if you need clarification.

judy B
Selden and Profurl authorized distributor, Retired.
 
Dec 3, 2020
3
N/A N/A Newport, RI
Hello,

Recently joined the forum, hopefully to be a resource for some of you. I think I should have a signature when I post this which explains my connection to Profurl.

That is definitely a Profurl Basic model. You can find technical information here. https://www.profurl.com/images/info_pages/basic-43.pdf.

As that does look like halyard wrap there are a couple of other potential issues. The top connector is either the wrong one or part of it has blown off the top due to over-hoisting the halyard. The top connector should have a slot for a stop washer which you will find referenced on page 9 of that document. With the extrusions as short as they are on your stay there is potential for the swivel to be hoisted higher than the extrusion which would have the swivel on the stay.

On the other end of the spectrum, if your jib hoist is well below (feet) the halyard sheave you will want a pennant between the head of the sail and swivel which will reduce the chance of halyard wrap. Getting the swivel closer up to the sheave will often change the halyard angle to the stay, will actually allow the wrap-stop to engage and do its job and will give the halyard less exposed length, limiting its ability to make it around your extrusions or stay. If you happen to have a picture of the top of the stay with the sail up that will help. Sometimes you can tell where the swivel lives based on wear on the extrusions.

Despite the Profurl systems having a wrap-stop some configurations will do well to have a halyard deflector installed on the mast face so the halyard approaches the swivel at a wider angle to the stay. This is often the end all, be all solution to halyard wrap issues.

Hope this is of help. No idea how often I will be on these forums but I think I am set up to get an email if someone reached out.

Thanks.
Mark
 
Sep 11, 2019
76
Hunter 386 Lake St. Clair
Hello Mark and thanks for responding, I appreciate it. I have a couple extra extrusions, so I'll be able to extend the length. Have also located the Stop washer and screw. That should arrive in the next week. Looks like the guy before me did a lot of cheats. 2 screws in 2 different foils are stripped. Great. So, I'm going to cut my mainstay cable so I can remove, take to our drill press and drill out the screws. I'll have to replace with slightly larger set screws, but it should work. I'm running up against winter now. Working outside in 32 or below isn't fun. I'll probably get it all removed this weekend and put it back together in the spring. As usual, thanks all!