Hi all! I currently have a 5:1 with dedicated cabin top winch and clutch mainsheet set up. I would like to get the sheet to the helm and I'm thinking that i could switch to a 6:1, run the line back to the helm with the jam cleat at the end. Is this crazy? is 6:1 that much easier to control? I suppose that i could just run the 5:1 back, but i feel like i need the winch in decent breeze (maybe) which defeats the purpose.
mainsheet block change
- Thread starter bob45
- Start date
There's a trade off between increased friction with the block and increase purchase. I'm not certain it would be the extra money.
A clutch probably isn't the best way to secure the mainsheet because it can't be easily released. Jam cleats have the opposite problem, they can be to easy to release. A cam cleat would be a better choice, they are easily engaged and released.
Faced with the same situation, I"d be inclined to replace the clutch with a cam cleat on a small riser before making any changes. If that doesn't work, then look at increasing the purchase on the mainsheet. A cam cleat with a riser will cost less than $50.
A clutch probably isn't the best way to secure the mainsheet because it can't be easily released. Jam cleats have the opposite problem, they can be to easy to release. A cam cleat would be a better choice, they are easily engaged and released.
Faced with the same situation, I"d be inclined to replace the clutch with a cam cleat on a small riser before making any changes. If that doesn't work, then look at increasing the purchase on the mainsheet. A cam cleat with a riser will cost less than $50.
Hello,
I used to have a C&C 110 with traveler on the bridge deck and main sheet controlled by a winch on the cabin top. I moved the traveler aft, to right in front of the wheel and I changed the sheet to increase the mechanical advantage (I don't remember by how much) AND I changed the sheet to be double ended. I could use the winch on the cabin top AND / OR I could use a camcleat at the helm. In moderate conditions I was easily able to control the sheet from the helm. If the wind was up or I was racing and needed that last inch of trim I would use the cabin top winch. That worked out very well and made the boat much easier to sail short handed.
Barry
I used to have a C&C 110 with traveler on the bridge deck and main sheet controlled by a winch on the cabin top. I moved the traveler aft, to right in front of the wheel and I changed the sheet to increase the mechanical advantage (I don't remember by how much) AND I changed the sheet to be double ended. I could use the winch on the cabin top AND / OR I could use a camcleat at the helm. In moderate conditions I was easily able to control the sheet from the helm. If the wind was up or I was racing and needed that last inch of trim I would use the cabin top winch. That worked out very well and made the boat much easier to sail short handed.
Barry
Putting the traveler just forward of the wheel is what we had on our J/36. We had a double-ended sheet setup (one line with the ends spliced together) that gave us 8:1 if we pulled on one strand, or 4:1 if we pulled two at the same time. Having the traveler just forward of the wheel enables you to attach the sheet to the end of the boom, which was also our arrangement. This increases the mechanical advantage of the sheet on the boom considerably. You need 5:1 AND a winch now because the sheet is attached to the middle of the boom, which reduces the mechanical advantage of it on the boom. We sailed our J/36 in winds up to 40 or more knots with this setup and never needed to put it on a winch. And the mainsail on the J/36 is a good deal bigger than yours. Moving a traveler is a reasonably big project, however.
I went from 3:1 to 6:1 mainly due to how difficult it was to undo the cam cleat. It helped but a clutch is far easier if it's within reach. There's a clutch or two out there that lets you release a line by pulling up on it. Upgrading the purchase did not eliminate the cam cleat issue at all. It's better, but still difficult to release under tension. The higher purchase also requires a lot of line. I'm more annoyed by the mess it can create than the amount of line I have to pull in.
I replaced my cam lock cleats to Spinlock PXR cleats for the main sheet and traveler control lines. Much easier to release under tension.
Found a pic. Left to Right: Outhaul, Main Sheet, Main Halyard, Topping Lift, Traveler
Found a pic. Left to Right: Outhaul, Main Sheet, Main Halyard, Topping Lift, Traveler
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jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,214
Good questions. I assume you have a mid boom mainsheet rig. Control of the boom with a mid sheet rig takes more force than an end of boom mainsheet rig under the same sail plan.
Harken in this link discusses how to run the lines (reeve) the 6-1 system.
Your idea of control (the force you need to trim the sail) is influenced my several factors, here are a few.
- The number of turns on the blocks,
- the size of the line used (larger line is easier to grab and haul),
- where the control line connects to the sail rig,
- and how you have to stand in the boat while trimming.
I have an end boom, 6-1 block rig that sits in front of the helm. I had 1/2" line that I increased to 5/8" to get a better feel. It takes more line to rig a 6-1 vs a 5-1 system. The whole rig is heavier, but it lets me manage my mainsheet in all sorts of weather conditions without the need for a winch. Bigger line also adds friction to the system. It requires me in light breezes to manually push the boom out and play the mainsheet out.
Good luck. This is a great query.
