Has anybody retrofitted their mainsheet controls so that you can make adjustments without having to leave the wheel while single-handing? I sure would be interested in your solutions. Thanks!
Mainsheet adjustment when single handing
- Thread starter Irish Ayes
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Traveler for single hand
Having had the same problem, I use my winch for gross adjustment of the main sheet, and have added a turning block on the handrail on the cabin top, back to a cam cleat mounted on the aft pulpit for the traveler. This gives pretty good control using the traveler once you get the main set initially, and is easily done from behind the helm.
Having had the same problem, I use my winch for gross adjustment of the main sheet, and have added a turning block on the handrail on the cabin top, back to a cam cleat mounted on the aft pulpit for the traveler. This gives pretty good control using the traveler once you get the main set initially, and is easily done from behind the helm.
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So you use this instead of the standard cam cleats ...
for traveler adjustment? Why not just put longer lines on them so they can run back behind the wheel? Would seem to be simpler. Is there only one line then or do they run on both sides?
for traveler adjustment? Why not just put longer lines on them so they can run back behind the wheel? Would seem to be simpler. Is there only one line then or do they run on both sides?
traveler adjustment
There is one line on each side regardless of how it is rigged. My traveler lines were long enough that you could do the adjustment from behind the wheel, but getting the traveler to release/lock back in from back there was very difficult (and it's usually when she is loaded up in a puff and the boat starts to round up when you can't get the traveler to release). When I am sailing with a lot of crew, or racing, I can move them back to their normal position, but single handed or with inexperienced crew it is much easier with the modification.
Main sheet cleating
My question: How did you fasten the new claet? Somewhere in thes forums I seem to have readt that the coachroof (near the clutches) incorporates a plastic core that one can tap into. I am relutant to do that as tapping in a cleat for the main sheet does not seem to be strong enough.
Would appreciate your advice.
Like your set up. My mainsheet seems to take off from its clam cleat at the most inopportune moments. Therefore thinking of adding a cam cleat as I had on previous boat where I had to use the mainsheet as the boat needed 'dinghy type' handling in gusts.
My question: How did you fasten the new claet? Somewhere in thes forums I seem to have readt that the coachroof (near the clutches) incorporates a plastic core that one can tap into. I am relutant to do that as tapping in a cleat for the main sheet does not seem to be strong enough.
Would appreciate your advice.
The idea is not to have to create any new taps into the Aluminum plate that is embedded into the deck, thus not creating the possibility of any new leaks that could rott the deck core. Simply remove the screws from the existing jam cleat and sandwich a piece of marine board (I used 1/2" Corian, cause that is what I had available) in between the deck and the cleat. Cut the material so there is a overhang big enough to mount the swivel cleat on the aft end. I doubled the material on the aft overhang to raise the cleat so the rope would just clear the existing jam cleat and would also provide a better angle for winch entry. Inset flush the washers and nuts on the bottom of the aft overhang that mount the new swivel cleat. The existing embedded plate is ~1/4" thick and for the original setup most of the threads were past the plate providing no hold anyway, so the original screws were plenty long enough, but check yours. Make sure to re-bed the new assembly in sealant. Adjust the new swivel cleat to look slightly down, this way it will be easier to release from the helm. Note the angle of the cleats used in the traveler. Hope this helps.
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Many thanks to Witzend and rpwillia. Extremely helpful advice which should assist me greatly when I embark on this project. You guys must be professionals?
Pity that Witzend's picture cannot be enlarged - but I think I get the idea.
Have to now also look to find similar materials here - that 'white marine board' looks ok.
Pity that Witzend's picture cannot be enlarged - but I think I get the idea.
Have to now also look to find similar materials here - that 'white marine board' looks ok.
One more thing
On the drawing you will need a 2nd piece (1"x2.x") at the end where the Harkin (or other brand of cam cleat) goes to make the cleat even with the outlet of the jam cleat. I just used a carbon fiber cam cleat one with longer screws to hold it all together at that end and longer screws to screw it into the aluminum plate embedded in the gel coat. Total cost with the cam cleat and screws was about $20.00 as I used some scrap marine board.
On the drawing you will need a 2nd piece (1"x2.x") at the end where the Harkin (or other brand of cam cleat) goes to make the cleat even with the outlet of the jam cleat. I just used a carbon fiber cam cleat one with longer screws to hold it all together at that end and longer screws to screw it into the aluminum plate embedded in the gel coat. Total cost with the cam cleat and screws was about $20.00 as I used some scrap marine board.
And may I add my thanks also for all the suggestions. I will be going with the Witzend solution, but having it done by professionals - in addition to some other maintenance/repair work I'm having done. Thanks again.
Thanks, Witzend, 'clear as mud' now. I like the deadeye - it makes sure of alignment with clam cleat. However, does the deadeye not restrict an, say emergency, throwing off maneuvre from the clam cleat?
Sorry to be a pain.
Sorry to be a pain.
Nope, just lift the line and it runs free. Also, the original setup is not interfering with the free operation. The only modification from this picture is that the swivel cleat is now looking down a bit more to allow a better release angle when controlling from the helm.
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