Mainsail's Universal Diesel amp meter bypass

[Stu Jackson]

Voltmeter is just as good

Allan, Main Sail's right. You do NOT need an ammeter in the cockpit. We (he & I, and many on our C34 website) have been writing about this since 1987), and have concluded that the purpose of the gauges in the cockpit are to tell you information you need to know, right? BOTH the ammeter and the voltmeter will tell you information. One's amps the other's volts. BOTH will tell you if the alternator is working or not. KISS, get a voltmeter. Like we've recommending since 1987. It's much easier to wire and you don't have to mess with shunts. We really try to help folks from reinventing the wheel (but you've heard that from me before, right? ).

And it's not only us. This original article came from Seaward and Catalina. It was the start of our "campaign":

http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Engine_Harness_Upgrade

 

[Allan12210]

Allan, Main Sail's right. You do NOT need an ammeter in the cockpit. We (he & I, and many on our C34 website) have been writing about this since 1987), and have concluded that the purpose of the gauges in the cockpit are to tell you information you need to know, right? BOTH the ammeter and the voltmeter will tell you information. One's amps the other's volts. BOTH will tell you if the alternator is working or not. KISS, get a voltmeter. Like we've recommending since 1987. It's much easier to wire and you don't have to mess with shunts. We really try to help folks from reinventing the wheel (but you've heard that from me before, right? ).

And it's not only us. This original article came from Seaward and Catalina. It was the start of our "campaign":

http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Engine_Harness_Upgrade

Thanks Main and Stu for the input. Yes, I actually already have a voltmeter outside (see original post). I only posted a picture of half my gauges. My voltmeter indeed shows the alternator is "working". The ammeter in its current (ha) configuration initially goes up to 30 amps on starting then drops to somewhere between 5-10 amps while the engine is running at 3000 rpm. The Balmer Smart Gauge tells me I'm not putting anything back in. This is probably all due to the excessive voltage drop with the relatively small wires from the alternator via the ammeter to the house bank. Trying to put 50-100 amp hours back into my bank will take a very long time.

So, I realize I am trying to take the belt and suspenders position, but I do like the capability of monitoring both pressure (volts) and volume (amps) from the helm. So even though not absolutely necessary it would be nice to not have a dead gauge in that hole, or an empty hole. The hour meter and vacuum meters are already somewhere else. I don't have a fuel gauge, but for thirty years now I just write down hours motored and fill accordingly. So, I'll either find something that works, or I won't. No biggie. I'm off to the local auto electric shop, and speed shop now (thanks Centerline). And I did just find a spare automotive ammeter in the garage. Might as well take it apart just to see what makes it tick anyway. Thanks again for the input.

Allan

 

[Skipper]

Done