Main Trimming (new) hijack avoidance...

[jwing]

Well this has certainly turned into a very educational thread. I want to thank everyone for their contributions.

For my boat, it looks like something like this

will be the best new toy to add.... however when I contacted the manufacturer, the sticker price made me want to wet myself. However, it does not look hard to make one from some T-track and blocks. So... next project... well actually next on the growing list...

"The only thing that works on an old boat is the skipper"

rgranger:

I intend to cobble a removable traveler, too. I'll probably mount mine higher than is shown in the photo that you pasted. I want to keep the traveler control lines as horizontal as possible.

For now, my leading candidate is this configuration that I copied from Harken's website. http://www.harken.com/content.aspx?id=3914

I could affix Harkin's Low-Beam track to some type of field-fabricated beam, or I could use their High-Beam track that is made to span cockpits.
The slick part of the Barton system is those puck-like end plates that make the system easily removable. Once the traveler is taken off, they are unobtrusive and not a safety concern. I haven't yet come up with an idea of how to make my field-fabricated beam easily removable without leaving some leg snaggers permanently attached to the vertical surfaces of the cockpit. I might get a local machine shop to design and fabricate something, but then the costs would probably be greater than buying the system from Barton. Let me know if you come up with something. If I do first, I'll post it here.

 

[Jackdaw]

The slick part of the Barton system is those puck-like end plates that make the system easily removable. Once the traveler is taken off, they are unobtrusive and not a safety concern. I haven't yet come up with an idea of how to make my field-fabricated beam easily removable without leaving some leg snaggers permanently attached to the vertical surfaces of the cockpit. I might get a local machine shop to design and fabricate something, but then the costs would probably be greater than buying the system from Barton. Let me know if you come up with something. If I do first, I'll post it here.

I've done this.

I used several pieces of 3/4 inch square alum rod, cut into pieces that would form a 'box' around the traveler beam. The top and sides were very securely attached to the cockpit well walls. The sides were tapped so the top could be screwed to them, sharing the load. The bottom piece was removable and held in place by a pin secured to the side pieces. Removing this bottom piece allowed you to slide the beam up and in where it could be secured. I rounded off the corners so they would not bite legs. It worked well on a boat with a 220 sqr foot main.

 

[rgranger]

Thanks Jwing and Jackdaw

Jackdaw! You got any pictures of that? Sounds very much like what I need.

One of the nice things about the H26 is the fact that the block for the main sheet already attaches on the cockpit floor. So adding a pendant from the cockpit floor to the middle of my track would be easy peasy. That will help a lot with distributing load. II just need a way to attach the traveler across the foot well.... I need to spend some time nosing around Lowes, Tractor Supply etc. and see if I can find a cleaver way to do this. I definitely want to be able to remove it easily. The H26 has a nice cockpit table that I will want to use at anchor.

 

[Jackdaw]

Thanks Jwing and Jackdaw

Jackdaw! You got any pictures of that? Sounds very much like what I need.

I'll take a look. If I cannot find one I'll draw it on the whiteboard and post a picture.

 

[jwing]

That would be most appreciated, Jackdaw! My imagination had come up with a crude version of you description, even down to the pin on the bottom, but I haven't yet figured out the details. Seeing a picture of a system that worked well would be very helpful.

 

[Jackdaw]

OK a quick drawing. Three pieces of 3/4 inch alum square stock sized to 'bracket the beam. Top piece screwed into tapped holes on the sides for strength; you could also make this whole deal out of one cut piece if you were handy (I am not). Screws with big backing plates hold it in place. Bottom pin (or a bar with a pin) hold the beam in place after it has been placed into position. All the loads are really up, the bottom holds it in place. Just make it (the pin) strong enough to be stepped on! Obviously the beam must be cut to a decent tolerance; it has to fit in but not too short.

 

[rgranger]

I like it. Thanks again.

I wonder if I could use a decking plank made of trex... glue two pieces together to make it deep enough and then jig out the form for the beam to sit on. Essentially the same idea as yours but it would look more like wood and it would be easier to shape it to a tight fit and I could round off the corners and edges with a router or sander. I could leave one side completely jigged on four sides and on the other side leave the bottom open and close that with a pin. It would look very nice and I'd only need a pin on one side. Do you think trex could hold up to that sort of stress? I'm thinking it would since the forces are mostly straight up.

 

[Daveinet]

Trex is too brittle. Why not just get your self some Teak or Cumaru. Cumaru will hold up just as good as Teak, and is much cheaper. Your local hardwood supplier should have some. All you need is a small piece. When I made he grab rails for my previous boat, I bought 1 short piece of left over decking board. It was 1 inch thick, so plenty strong enough for what yo are doing. Just champher the edges so it looks nice and won't skin up your legs.