Main Rigging Upgrades

Apr 25, 2024
190
Fuji 32 Bellingham
So, when I got this boat last spring, I knew I was going to rework some running rigging. It was "good enough" to be safe, but not how I want it, long term. Today, I finally went out and started putting together a plan.

Let me break this down into three seperate projects, but with some overlap:
  • Outhaul: What I have is barely functional.
  • Reefing: Same. Almost unsafe.
  • Topping Lift: Nearly pointless, but technically functional.
I am looking for some extra eyes on this, just to offer different perspectives.

Outhaul
The outhaul is shown here:

20250322_153116.jpg


Just to the right of this photo, the wire rope attaches to a short section of braided nylon that goes straight to a horn cleat on the boom. It is pretty much impossible to get much tension. The horn cleat is about 2 feet from the aft end of the boom. (That bracket on the far right of the photo is a cheek block for the reefing line.)

I'm not entire sure of the history here. That half-moon shaped protrusion on the end cap is (my best guess) the original route of the outhaul. It has a groove that runs around the outside of that half-circle. (I'm sure this has a name, but I don't know it). But, the track on the top of the boom doesn't look like it would have allowed that. That is, anything coming around that half-moon would have rubbed against the aft-most tip of that track. The track sure looks original, though, so I don't know.

In any case, it looks like that block was bolted onto the end cap, some time later. I do consider that an upgrade, and I'm OK with that end of the setup. The other end (the cleat end) is what I don't like. At minimum, I am just going to run a longer outhaul line to a cleat farther forward. This, at least, allows me to tension from a better position.

Except on very small boats, I have only ever seen something barely functional like this, or an outhaul rigged all the way back to the cockpit. I will say, I am not going to bring it back to the cockpit. I am just not the kind of sailor that ever adjust this when under sail. It just isn't that important, to me to finetune the outhaul tension. That said, I do like to be able to adjust according to the prevailing conditions.

Reefing Line
Some day, I will bring the reefing line back to the cockpit, but not this year. But, the way it is set up, it is pretty sketchy and I do not look forward to doing it under hectic conditions.

20250322_153112.jpg


So, you can see the cheek block near the center of the photo. That's fine. (The reefing line is just kind of hanging there, at the moment.) From there, the line goes up through the cringle, then down to this little eye-strap kind of thing (don't know what these are called).

20250322_153206.jpg


First, this appears to be something added on later. I suppose it is possible the original boom had no reefing mechanism, whatsoever. I see no evidence of anything prior.

In any case, I do not like this eye-strappy anchor point. It doesn't exactly have sharp edges on it, but it looks inadequate and I am concerned about chafing when used in real conditions for more than a few hours. Maybe this is more common than I realize, but I don't think I have ever seen this setup. But, then again, I can't think off the top of my head what I have seen except on my own boats.

So, notwithstanding my concerns with the port side anchor strap thing, my beef is with the other end of the reefing line. It goes through that cheek block and forward to a point a few feet forwardo of the mast, where it terminates at a horn cleat on the boom.

I think that what I might consider is just taking it all the way to the mast. I don't have a free/unused winch at the mast, but if I installed one, I could use it for either the reefing line or the outhaul. But, I also start to think that, by that time, maybe I should add just a few more blocks and some clutches, and take my lines back to the cockpit. Still undecided what I care most about, here.

Topping Lift
I'm actually confused about my topping lift. This is the best (not great) picture I have:

20250322_153147.jpg


This has a fairly typical setup of kind of an upside-down "V" shaped bridle with a little block holding up the point of the "V". (Not describing this well, but it is pretty typical.) In the photo, you can see the line attached to a shackle clipped to a strap bolted to the end cap. That line goes up couple of feet, through the block, and back down to that cheek block, then forward a few feet to a horn cleat on the port side of the boom.

That much makes sense. But, the line that runs from the top of the mast to that block at the top of the "V" bridle - that has me confused.

I would expect that line to go up through a masthead sheave, and back down the mast, thus allowing you to raise/lower the topping lift from the mast. But, the topping lift doesn't exit anywhere. I have internal halyards and there are only exit points for the two halyards. (The spinaker halyard is external.) That topping lift appears to just to tied on at the top of the mast or secured in some secret place. It is hard to see from below, but it "appears" to go through a sheave, but the other end does not emerge anywhere.

Is this actual a common thing? I don't think I've ever seen it, but again, it isn't the sort of thing I pay much attention to on other people's boats.

The end result of this is that the only way to use the topping lift is to adjust it right there a few feet from the aft end of the boom.

So, here is my real concern, reefing would look something like this:
  1. Point upwind and engage autopilot because this will be hard to do safely, otherwise. Even though I don't sail solo, this is really a two-person job with the current setup.
  2. Slack the mainsheet a bit so I can engage the topping lift. (I typically use the topping lift to make it easier to tension the reefing line.)
  3. Now, the boom is loose and I have to raise the topping lift from a line that attaches just a few feet from the aft end.
  4. Then, I have to harden the mainsheet while crew goes to the mast.
  5. I move up to the starboard side of the boom, near the mast, and crew lowers the halyard.
  6. I harden the reefing line and crew rehardens the halyard.
I guess, when I write this out, it doesn't seem much different from how I would normally do it. My main issue is that the topping lift and reefing lines are managed from some point on the boom rather than safely at the mast or cockpit. And, it's a lot of moving around for something that should be quick and easy.

Sorry, that's a lot to unpack. Part of this post is just me thinking out loud. Ultimately, eventually, I will run everything back to the cockpit. But, probably not within the next few years. So, I am trying to make the best compromises I can.
 
May 29, 2018
542
Canel 25 foot Shiogama, japan
I will tackle the outhaul first.
There is no way that what you have will give you tension.
I would make start by replacing the sheave in the clew car. Is there actually a sheave in there?
1742719856615.png

Fit a double cheek block at the boom end and a single cheek block in a suitable position.
This will increase your purchase , which is essential for outhaul tension.
Make up a 6mm dyneema line(red line in illustration) to 8 mm double braid and move the horn cleat closer to the mast as you plan.
The dyneema should be as long as possible to avoid stretch.
1742719289732.png


The red line indicates the dyneema . It will have an eyeslice on the boomend end and be spliced to 8mm braid at a suitable length.

Gary
 
Last edited:
May 29, 2018
542
Canel 25 foot Shiogama, japan
Reefing line next
Looking at the different fasteners used on the mast (rivets, phillps head screws and allen head screws) I would say that most of these fittings are replacements or add ons.
Your reef line should tie off to a pad eye with rounded edges as you have noted
1742720360707.png

The cheek block should be replaced with modern larger size with bearings . What you have is way past it.
1742720434991.png

I am not a fan of winches and reefing lines (except on large boats).
Lower the sail, fix the tack to the ramshorn and haul on the reefline should do the job.
I also prefer the simplicity and safety of a horncleat or camcleat (closer to the mast as you plan) to a clutch.
 
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Likes: Ward H
May 29, 2018
542
Canel 25 foot Shiogama, japan
Topping lift
1742721196036.png


It looks like you have a spare halyard wrapped around the boom acting as a topping lift (Yellow arrow) and a standard topping lift fitted to the boomend (blue arrow)
What is the function of the red arrow line?

gary
 
Jun 21, 2004
2,713
Beneteau 343 Slidell, LA
Have you ever done a complete rigging inspection done (aloft)? Might be a good idea to have an experienced rigger do an inspection & have him make recommendations based on your ultimate / future plan. Appears that you have a combination of original rig & many repairs / mods by previous owner(s). A rigger could recommend the exact hardware that you will need & hopefully doesn’t find anything that compromises the rig.
 
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Likes: Timm R Oday25
Apr 8, 2010
2,077
Ericson Yachts Olson 34 28400 Portland OR
Once you have figured out the existing scheme....
I would advocate replacing the old top. lift with a spring-return Rod Vang.
You will still need to park the main halyard shackle on a ring (or that big shackle) at the end of the boom when the sail is furled.
 
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Apr 25, 2024
190
Fuji 32 Bellingham
Topping lift
View attachment 230424

It looks like you have a spare halyard wrapped around the boom acting as a topping lift (Yellow arrow) and a standard topping lift fitted to the boomend (blue arrow)
What is the function of the red arrow line?
No, that yellow arrow just points to the main halyard. When parked, this is how we keep the halyard to prevent it from banging on the mast. The red arrow points to the "V" bridle portion of the topping lift. It runs to the left to a cleat, and it runs up from that cheek block to the block at the top of that "V".
 
Apr 25, 2024
190
Fuji 32 Bellingham
Have you ever done a complete rigging inspection done (aloft)? Might be a good idea to have an experienced rigger do an inspection & have him make recommendations based on your ultimate / future plan.
Well, one of the conditions when we bought the boat is that I pretty much planned on a complete overhaul of the standing rigging. There are a few known issues that will need to be addressed before doing much serious cruising, and surely a few unknowns. I have a rigger that I really like, locally. I'm going to deal with that overhaul in the fall, when things aren't so busy.

So, really, I am mostly just trying to figure out what I am willing to do in the short term that I don't think is going to be a throw-away effort. I didn't realize that until this morning when I was thinking this through, but I think that's why I've sort of been in decision paralysis on this.

But no, I have not been aloft on this boat yet. The problem is that I am not willing to go aloft on the existing rigging because I do not know its history. It is almost certainly just fine, but until I have personally inspected and/or replaced everything, I just don't know the history, so I am unwilling to hang my life on it. Fortunately, we do have a way to examine the mast head without going aloft, which is pretty nice.
 
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Apr 25, 2024
190
Fuji 32 Bellingham
I would make start by replacing the sheave in the clew car. Is there actually a sheave in there?
Thanks for the great advice. What you recommend is pretty much what I was thinking. To answer your question ... I don't think so. I just assumed not, but I guess there could be one in there. If there is, my hunch is that it was last serviced in 1975.
 
May 29, 2018
542
Canel 25 foot Shiogama, japan
Good morning Foswick.
RE;No, that yellow arrow just points to the main halyard. When parked, this is how we keep the halyard to prevent it from banging on the mast. The red arrow points to the "V" bridle portion of the topping lift. It runs to the left to a cleat, and it runs up from that cheek block to the block at the top of that "V".

I see.
FastOlsen has recommended a spring vang. That will do the job (expensively ).
But as a tight a#se I would go a new cheek block. (easy fix).
I have my topping lift coming back to the cockpit. (blue line in illustration).
The reason for going for a topping lift is that I can haul my boom up high to give me headroom.
Gary
Screenshot 2025-03-24 085426.png
 
Apr 5, 2009
3,055
Catalina '88 C30 tr/bs Oak Harbor, WA
I will tackle the outhaul first.
There is no way that what you have will give you tension.
I would make start by replacing the sheave in the clew car. Is there actually a sheave in there?

Fit a double cheek block at the boom end and a single cheek block in a suitable position.
This will increase your purchase , which is essential for outhaul tension.
Make up a 6mm dyneema line(red line in illustration) to 8 mm double braid and move the horn cleat closer to the mast as you plan.
The dyneema should be as long as possible to avoid stretch.
View attachment 230417

The red line indicates the dyneema . It will have an eyeslice on the boomend end and be spliced to 8mm braid at a suitable length.

Gary
If you fit two cheek blocks as indicated to the boom, it will not make a purchase. for a purchase system, one line must be fixed and the other must be moving. I increased the 3:1 purchase on my Catalina 30 to 12:1 by adding in a couple of single blocks to make two cascades. Here is the diagram of the modifications.

12-1 outhaul.png
 
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Apr 25, 2024
190
Fuji 32 Bellingham
If you fit two cheek blocks as indicated to the boom, it will not make a purchase. for a purchase system, one line must be fixed and the other must be moving. I increased the 3:1 purchase on my Catalina 30 to 12:1 by adding in a couple of single blocks to make two cascades. Here is the diagram of the modifications.
In the diagram that Gary provided, the end would be attached where the wire rope currently anchors (The shackle barely visible on the port side.) He just couldn't really show that clearly on the photo I provided.

But, yes, it is still only a 2:1 purchase, just like the original setup, but with more moving parts. It looks like it would increase the advantage, but since there is still only one movable pulley (the sliding car), the actual advantage is still 2:1.

Your suggestion certainly increases the purchase. The key is the fact that you multiply mechanical advantage by chaining systems of movable pulleys. I think I will ultimately go with a simpler version of this, but still one that chains systems.
 
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Apr 25, 2024
190
Fuji 32 Bellingham
For the outhaul, I think I might end up just attaching that wire rope to a low-profile fiddle block. That will give me 8:1 purchase with pretty minimal modification. Then, if I decide to completely overhaul this fall, I haven't really done anything permanent that I would have to undo. I probably have all of the parts for this laying around, and it would be a quick-win improvement.
 
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,613
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Do you need an 8:1 purchase on the outhaul for a sail that is about 190 sqft?
There is nothing troublesome about adding such power. I wonder if the power is needed.