Lots of questions about new 19

[bmiller]

OK I got the 1980 19 for a decent price even though it needs lots of TLC. The hull seems solid, standing rigging looks original but in real good shape, all the cushions were there and in great shape, sails decent although dirty.

Digging into the boat I found some surprises and have lots of questions:
All the running rigging and anchor lines were crap. What size line for the halyards and sheets? I'm thinking 1/4.
Does anybody have a diagram showing the boat rigged and ready to go? Where is the mainsheet attached? Maybe when I stand the mast it will be apparent.
How do you inspect the centerboard pivot?

The biggest surprise is the hose from the cockpit scupper to the drain on the stern is broke. How on earth do you get in there and replace that short piece of hose?

All in all not bad for a boat that has sat unattended for 24 years.

 

[Brian S]

I used 1/4" Vectran cored line for halyards on my 192, and I fully admit it's overkill. If I recall, 5/16 Dacron double braid is original spec. But I dislike polyester halyards, too stretchy.

I used 5/16" NE Ropes Salsa for jib sheets, wonderful hand feel, doesn't absorb water, but ugly. I also used 3/8" Salsa for the main sheet. Salsa gets a bit hairy with use, but it's also reasonably UV resistant.

I have also used FSE Robline Racing Sheet for 5/16" jib sheets, but I find it tends to flatten more than Salsa (it's a single braid) and it was more expensive than Salsa. But still, it had a very nice hand feel.

I think the main sheet on the 19 is end boom sheeting to the backstay triangle plate, just like on a 192 or 222. There should be a 12 or 18" strop from the backstay chainplate up to the triangle plate, and then on up to the masthead. The idea is that with stronger winds, the main sheet lever the triangle plate tensioning the backstay a bit. Meh, I'd rather have an adjustable backstay and a raised bridge traveller across the aft coaming...

Brian

 

[Brian S]

Oh, and so some searches , there are plenty of discussions here about your scupper hose. Trinkka maybe even has some pics on his profile album from his 222.

If the 19 is anything like the 192 and 222, you might consider adding an inspection plate in the middle of the back face of the cockpit to give you access down to the scupper hose.

Brian

 

[oliversdad]

Hello Bmiller, I replaced my halyards w/1/4" and I believe the sheets are 5/16.The mainsheet blocks are attached to the backstay of all places.You'll probably see a triangular piece of stainless with a hole in it low on the backstay. The centerboard pivot is a bit of a project.In my case I needed to replace the centerboard pennant line so I put the boat on blocks and removed the 4 screws at the front of the centerboard trunk on the underside of the hull.It helps to use an impact driver to remove these screws.To my surprise the pivot pin on my boat showed little wear but I had the replacement and put it in.I would recomend just replacing the pennant line and not removing the board and pin.You can lower the board to get to the attachment point of the line with the boat on blocks or stands. Good Luck,Barry

 

[bmiller]

Thanks guys, I was wondering if the triangle plate was for this boat or just left there by the previous owner.

So let me be sure about it, the short pennant goes to the padeye, then the backstay and mainsheet go to the other holes. Interesting.

As for the scupper hose there alreday is an inspection plate there, that's how I found the problem. Getting in there and removing/replacing the hose is another matter. May have to (hate to) put a second plate to get two hands in there to work.

On the aft side of the bridgedeck there are two small eye bolts. Any idea what those are for. There are two padeyes up front on both sides a few feet back from the bow, how about those?

I was hoping to get the boat on the water before it freezes but may not get all the work done in time.

 

[Sunbird22358]

Diagram of mainsheet: attached below.

I also had the original rigging specs, 5/16" was orignal halyard size, but I would think that 1/4" double-braid Dacron should still work and won't stretxh enough to worry about unless you are racing.


O’DAY 19 RIGGING SPECS
(Taken from a 1979 O’DAY memo)

Running Rigging Specs.​

All Lengths and specifications are approximate and are subject to change without notice​

Main Halyard: 5/16” x 53’​

Jib Halyard: 5/16” x 47’​

Mainsheet: 5/16” x 30’​

Jib Sheet: 5/16” x 30’ (15’ each side)​

Mainsail Outhaul: 3/16” x 9’​

Spinnaker Halyard: 1/4” x 45’​

Spinnaker Pole Lift: ¼” x 21’​

Spinnaker Pole Downhaul: ¼” x 21’​

Spinnaker Sheets: ¼” x 32’ (2x)​

Genoa Sheets: 3/8” x 40’ (20’ each side)​

All running rigging is typically double-braid Dacron (Polyester) rope​

Standing Rigging Specs.​

Headstay: 1/8” x 23’8”


Upper Shroud:1/8” x 22’7”


Lower Shrouds: 1/8” x 11’4”


Backstay: 5/32” x 27’7”


Backstay piece below mainsheet attachment triangle: 5/32” x ?​

All Standing rigging is SS 1x19 type wire and lengths are with turnbuckle (where applicable) closed, from eye to eye (most riggers measure with turnbuckles half-closed, so be sure to note this and/or bring old rigging to rigger to measure for replacement)

 

[bmiller]

Now I get it! And thanks for the chart, that's very helpful.

Here is the boat, the trailer works but the mast storage is a bit cobbled together. Notice the last tag is 1989:

Here is the side deck, I think the previous owner the smaller forward jib track? And where most boats would have a winch are those funky looking things.

And what are these padeyes for near the bow?

 

[oliversdad]

I would bet those forward jib tracks are the originals as that is all my boat has.Did your boat come with a genoa as well as a smaller maybe 110 jib?I believe the 110 was standard and you would sheet it through those forward tracks.The padeyes were probably added by the previous owner.Maybe to hang bumpers?...Barry

 

[oliversdad]

Those funky jamb cleats are original and work well.My 19 came with a set of #6 Lewmar winches mounted aft of the jamb cleats maybe a foot.They are handy in a breeze.I have some pictures you might find helpful in my profile album.

 

[bmiller]

The boat came with what looks like the 110 and a main, nothing else.
I checked out your photos, very impressive. I don't have near the ambition for this boat, just want to get it in the water.

The broken scupper hose is the only thing keeping it out right now.

 

[bmiller]

One more question,
There are two drain holes in the cabin, aft next to the center board trunk. They don't drain. I tried pushing a plastic rod in and it stops just in. Also one of the holes is weeping water back into the cabin floor. What do you know about these drain holes, why can't i get a rod in to clean them out?

 

[oliversdad]

I had the same problem.I drilled them clear assuming they were just draining into the bilge.My boat also had been sitting for over 20 years and was fully covered in muck.

 

[Brian S]

I think I have similar holes from my storage under the quarter berths into the bilge. Other than that, I don't have water inside the cabin or in the "bilge" so I can't say more... (Not much of a bilge in my 192...)

Brian

One more question,
There are two drain holes in the cabin, aft next to the center board trunk. They don't drain. I tried pushing a plastic rod in and it stops just in. Also one of the holes is weeping water back into the cabin floor. What do you know about these drain holes, why can't i get a rod in to clean them out?

 

[oliversdad]

As for that broken scupper hose,you could fit a rubber plug from the outside just to get a sail in.On my boat the hole doesn't go below the waterline until I have at least 3 adults aboard.Just a thought...If you were leaving it in the water I'd keep an eye on it if you got a lot of rain.

 

[bmiller]

Another question, the bow eye was broken off. Looking inside the cabin at the bow there is a bulkhead of sorts with a couple rusty fasteners showing. Is it possible to open that up and access the bow and the nut for a new eye?

 

[oliversdad]

I ended up cutting in a hole and installing a circular removable hatch cover.

 

[bmiller]

I ended up cutting in a hole and installing a circular removable hatch cover.

Got any photos of that, what did you find inside? Was it possible to put in a new bow eye?

With all the access I need to get this thing in the water it's going to look like swiss cheese with cover plates when done.

 

[oliversdad]

Sorry,no photos I'll try to get some.I would recommend a large port though.I think mine is 10".I cut the hole with a Fein vibrating tool and a wood bit.The fiberglass there is quite thin and cut easily.Inside there were shards of foam flotation material which must be taken out.I was adding a deck eye and backing plate to mount a roller furling drum.It was all I could do to reach and install the nuts.Hopefully the bow eye is an easier fix for you as it may be more within reach but I cannot say for sure.I didn't dig out enough foam to see.I would also recommend the screw on deck cover as opposed to the snap in type as the bulkhead flexes and makes the snap-in difficult.Good Luck,Barry

 

[bmiller]

Thanks for that.
Right now I'm in the process of rebuilding all the plywood parts in the cabin. The covers for the storage lockers and the little shelves.

 

[Sunbird22358]

The previous owner of my DS II broke the bow-eye off while taking the boat off the trailer one year to paint the bottom, he installed a 6" inspection port in the forward bulkhead. When I had to rebed the bow-eye I found that port a bit tight to work through and so ended up replacing it with a larger hatch (about 9" x 11"). I would think that a 8" or 10" inspection port would give you enough room to access the inside of the eye-bolt. I happen to have a few pictures showing other O'DAY 19s that have had a port added by their owners, I'll post them below.