It is true - epoxy will turn yellow and break down in the sun pretty quickly, easily over one summer. Protect it with paint or varnish.
Locker Lids
- Thread starter STEPHEN
- Start date
My locker lids are originals, I believe. New ones would be wonderful but $s not going to happen this year. I wanted to preserve the teak, and Richard Coe put me on the right track. I am coating them with clear epoxy on all sides ( 2-3 coats) and then varnish for the UV protection (2-3 coats) on the top and paint on the bottom. West System tech guys say this will last for 10 - 15 years! Each year all I need to do is sand lightly and recoat once to keep them looking new. That's easy enough! Here is a link to their paper on this subject: WEST SYSTEM Epoxy - Marine Grade Resins & Hardeners: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comFrom: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comDate: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 14:41:11 -0700Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] Re: Locker Lids
It is true - epoxy will turn yellow and break down in the sun pretty quickly, easily over one summer. Protect it with paint or varnish.
It is true - epoxy will turn yellow and break down in the sun pretty quickly, easily over one summer. Protect it with paint or varnish.
We epoxy coat our woodwork and then varnish over that. Seems to be the most durable finish. The epoxy bonds and seal the wood and the multiple coats of varnish protect the epoxy from UV. It seems that rounding over the edges really helps the epoxy from failure on sharp corners.I found a uv resistant clear epoxy, but I have yet to try it. It still needs a UV topcoat. Tg
DRUSIE, I is a fact that epoxy does not hold up under Varnish well
at all. Over the years I have seen so may people try it and it just
doesn't work. There is not enough uv filter in the varnsh to protect
the very easily damaged Epoxy is great stuff as glue or to protect
wood from damage but it must be painted over to protect it. You
buddy has likely been reading some old literature fro back when that
was thought to be a good process. In later years everyone gave up on
it.
--
Doug Pollard
Albin Vega Sea Legs 2225
KK4YGO
On 08/04/2014 07:29 PM, Drusie Sheldon
d_sheldon@... [AlbinVega] wrote:
at all. Over the years I have seen so may people try it and it just
doesn't work. There is not enough uv filter in the varnsh to protect
the very easily damaged Epoxy is great stuff as glue or to protect
wood from damage but it must be painted over to protect it. You
buddy has likely been reading some old literature fro back when that
was thought to be a good process. In later years everyone gave up on
it.
--
Doug Pollard
Albin Vega Sea Legs 2225
KK4YGO
On 08/04/2014 07:29 PM, Drusie Sheldon
d_sheldon@... [AlbinVega] wrote:
We have had boats that were epoxy/varnished 10 years ago used by fishing guides at high altitudes (8000'+) where the UV is strong.The boats that have had yearly maintenance were still ok. On the other hand, we have had guides from the Aspen area neglect their boats and beat then so hard, that they need refinishing in 2 years. Boats that come in for refinishing that are 5 years old or so and have not had maintenance, but have not been abused, have finish wear on the sharp edges of the wood that we have to sand down
and refinish, but the rest of the wood is ok. Currently, I am easing all wood edges, but have only been doing that for a couple of years, so time will tell how much that adds to finish life. We currently use West System epoxies and Pettit Flagship varnish.I have also tried out automotive urethane 2K clear coat over epoxy and found that it had the same failure on sharp corners as did the varnish.One test piece, a square block of brazilian rosewood sat on a rock in my yard at 50000ft for a year an a half before the finish started lifting at the corners on the end grain. 18 months of subzero to 100 F temps, rain, snow and blistering sun doesn't seem too bad of a lifespan.The clear coat went on fast and was super lustrous, but I think it is too hard a finish and not convenient to touch up. Maybe adding a flex additive would help.I have used MAS epoxies on my own boats without trouble. I'm going to try the Raka uv resistant epoxy after reading this test:Epoxy test panel after six month Epoxy test panel after six month Fabric 'whitening'
- It seemed from the 6 month sampling that the whitening of the fibers had
stabilized. View on www.oneoceankayak...Preview by
Yahoo The boat shop owner won't change how we do things until after several years of testing a new product because he is happy with the results we have now. -Tim From: "Douglas Pollard dougpol2@... [AlbinVega]" AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 4, 2014 5:46 PM Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] Re: Locker Lids
DRUSIE, I is a fact that epoxy does not hold up under Varnish well
at all. Over the years I have seen so may people try it and it just
doesn't work. There is not enough uv filter in the varnsh to protect
the very easily damaged Epoxy is great stuff as glue or to protect
wood from damage but it must be painted over to protect it. You
buddy has likely been reading some old literature fro back when that
was thought to be a good process. In later years everyone gave up on
it.
--
Doug Pollard
Albin Vega Sea Legs 2225
KK4YGO
On 08/04/2014 07:29 PM, Drusie Sheldon
d_sheldon@... [AlbinVega] wrote:
and refinish, but the rest of the wood is ok. Currently, I am easing all wood edges, but have only been doing that for a couple of years, so time will tell how much that adds to finish life. We currently use West System epoxies and Pettit Flagship varnish.I have also tried out automotive urethane 2K clear coat over epoxy and found that it had the same failure on sharp corners as did the varnish.One test piece, a square block of brazilian rosewood sat on a rock in my yard at 50000ft for a year an a half before the finish started lifting at the corners on the end grain. 18 months of subzero to 100 F temps, rain, snow and blistering sun doesn't seem too bad of a lifespan.The clear coat went on fast and was super lustrous, but I think it is too hard a finish and not convenient to touch up. Maybe adding a flex additive would help.I have used MAS epoxies on my own boats without trouble. I'm going to try the Raka uv resistant epoxy after reading this test:Epoxy test panel after six month Epoxy test panel after six month Fabric 'whitening'
- It seemed from the 6 month sampling that the whitening of the fibers had
stabilized. View on www.oneoceankayak...Preview by
Yahoo The boat shop owner won't change how we do things until after several years of testing a new product because he is happy with the results we have now. -Tim From: "Douglas Pollard dougpol2@... [AlbinVega]" AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 4, 2014 5:46 PM Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] Re: Locker Lids
DRUSIE, I is a fact that epoxy does not hold up under Varnish well
at all. Over the years I have seen so may people try it and it just
doesn't work. There is not enough uv filter in the varnsh to protect
the very easily damaged Epoxy is great stuff as glue or to protect
wood from damage but it must be painted over to protect it. You
buddy has likely been reading some old literature fro back when that
was thought to be a good process. In later years everyone gave up on
it.
--
Doug Pollard
Albin Vega Sea Legs 2225
KK4YGO
On 08/04/2014 07:29 PM, Drusie Sheldon
d_sheldon@... [AlbinVega] wrote:
Ah-hah...Thanks for the warning, Doug. I guess this means that next year I will be prepared to paint them! C'est la vie.~ Drusie
Drusie Sheldon
"Spindrift", Vega 1879
Saunderstown, RI To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comFrom: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comDate: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 19:46:19 -0400Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] Re: Locker Lids
DRUSIE, I is a fact that epoxy does not hold up under Varnish well
at all. Over the years I have seen so may people try it and it just
doesn't work. There is not enough uv filter in the varnsh to protect
the very easily damaged Epoxy is great stuff as glue or to protect
wood from damage but it must be painted over to protect it. You
buddy has likely been reading some old literature fro back when that
was thought to be a good process. In later years everyone gave up on
it.
--
Doug Pollard
Albin Vega Sea Legs 2225
KK4YGO
On 08/04/2014 07:29 PM, Drusie Sheldon
d_sheldon@... [AlbinVega] wrote:
Drusie Sheldon
"Spindrift", Vega 1879
Saunderstown, RI To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comFrom: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comDate: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 19:46:19 -0400Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] Re: Locker Lids
DRUSIE, I is a fact that epoxy does not hold up under Varnish well
at all. Over the years I have seen so may people try it and it just
doesn't work. There is not enough uv filter in the varnsh to protect
the very easily damaged Epoxy is great stuff as glue or to protect
wood from damage but it must be painted over to protect it. You
buddy has likely been reading some old literature fro back when that
was thought to be a good process. In later years everyone gave up on
it.
--
Doug Pollard
Albin Vega Sea Legs 2225
KK4YGO
On 08/04/2014 07:29 PM, Drusie Sheldon
d_sheldon@... [AlbinVega] wrote:
I lived in Ft Lauderdale and got to know the captain on about a
100ft fairly old sailboat. He swore the vanish had not been remeoved
and redone in many years. Acording to him there were 16 coats Of
Varnish on the bright work. I believe that even in South Florida if
you pile up the varnsh you only have to take it off when it is thick
enough you can hardly see the grain. I am 80 years old and grew up
sailing on our family 40ft Sharpie in Baltimore though we did not
live on the boat. I Married and left home at age 19 and I don't
remember ever taking the varnish off the boat and replacing it
during those growing up years. I know, nobody believes me but you
can put 6 coats of varnish on in two days and after that its one
coat a year with only very light sanding to break the gloss. I am
telling you guys the art of maintaining varnish was lot 60 or 70
years ago. Caution! Never thin varnsh and never put driers in it.
Driers leave microscopic holes in the varnish as the driers
evaporate of through the varnish. Moisture gets in and expands in
the sun or freezes in the north climates. By the way we didn't have
UV blockers in those days but we did stir in a little pine tar to
darken and block some sunlight. We made our own varnish. I don't
think it was as good as Captains varnish today which is what I use.
--
Doug Pollard
Albin Vega Sea Legs 2225
KK4YGO
On 08/05/2014 10:54 AM,
coe.richard@... [AlbinVega] wrote:
100ft fairly old sailboat. He swore the vanish had not been remeoved
and redone in many years. Acording to him there were 16 coats Of
Varnish on the bright work. I believe that even in South Florida if
you pile up the varnsh you only have to take it off when it is thick
enough you can hardly see the grain. I am 80 years old and grew up
sailing on our family 40ft Sharpie in Baltimore though we did not
live on the boat. I Married and left home at age 19 and I don't
remember ever taking the varnish off the boat and replacing it
during those growing up years. I know, nobody believes me but you
can put 6 coats of varnish on in two days and after that its one
coat a year with only very light sanding to break the gloss. I am
telling you guys the art of maintaining varnish was lot 60 or 70
years ago. Caution! Never thin varnsh and never put driers in it.
Driers leave microscopic holes in the varnish as the driers
evaporate of through the varnish. Moisture gets in and expands in
the sun or freezes in the north climates. By the way we didn't have
UV blockers in those days but we did stir in a little pine tar to
darken and block some sunlight. We made our own varnish. I don't
think it was as good as Captains varnish today which is what I use.
--
Doug Pollard
Albin Vega Sea Legs 2225
KK4YGO
On 08/05/2014 10:54 AM,
coe.richard@... [AlbinVega] wrote:
When I was a young man messing with sailboats American boats almost
never had teak on them. Teak was concidered junk wood. The chinese
used it and we an the English for Battle and cruise ship decks. On
battle ships it was concidered sacraficial wood. It was not finshed
but left unfinishe to be scrubed with Holey stone. It was put on
thick maybe 3 to6 inches thick and over time scrubbed away. WE had
a chicken coupe built out of it because my father worked for Western
Electric, Bell Telephone. Some products they bought came in in big
wooden boxes made of teak. Dad brought the wood home and built a
chicken coupe. Thinking back it was really nice teak with close
grain and dark brown in color. No teak doe's not hold varnish
well. Now days people expect to have to varnish often so it doesn't
make any difference. Most people put on two coats in the spring and
buy the next spring they have to sand or scrape it all off no mater
what kind of wood it's on. The result is if it will only last a year
it doesn't mater whether it's teak or mahogany. Anything less than
six coats is a waste of time and more is better. I have used Honey
locust as trim on boats. It just don't rot on a boat. It also don't
hold varnish well ( to much oil in it) I use a scrubby pad with
abrasive in it and wipe the wood down now and then and it stays
beautiful. Don't touch it and it turns silver gray and so still
pretty. To much work if you don't live aboard. It's a great wood
to build an entire boat from except that it's heavy. Still it would
be a boat you could hand t down to your Great great Grandchildren
and their great Grand kids could still be sailing it 300 years from
now. This assumes you don't use metal screws to rot away but black
Locust trunnels instead
--
Doug Pollard
Albin Vega Sea Legs 2225
KK4YGO
On 08/05/2014 02:14 PM,
coe.richard@... [AlbinVega] wrote:
never had teak on them. Teak was concidered junk wood. The chinese
used it and we an the English for Battle and cruise ship decks. On
battle ships it was concidered sacraficial wood. It was not finshed
but left unfinishe to be scrubed with Holey stone. It was put on
thick maybe 3 to6 inches thick and over time scrubbed away. WE had
a chicken coupe built out of it because my father worked for Western
Electric, Bell Telephone. Some products they bought came in in big
wooden boxes made of teak. Dad brought the wood home and built a
chicken coupe. Thinking back it was really nice teak with close
grain and dark brown in color. No teak doe's not hold varnish
well. Now days people expect to have to varnish often so it doesn't
make any difference. Most people put on two coats in the spring and
buy the next spring they have to sand or scrape it all off no mater
what kind of wood it's on. The result is if it will only last a year
it doesn't mater whether it's teak or mahogany. Anything less than
six coats is a waste of time and more is better. I have used Honey
locust as trim on boats. It just don't rot on a boat. It also don't
hold varnish well ( to much oil in it) I use a scrubby pad with
abrasive in it and wipe the wood down now and then and it stays
beautiful. Don't touch it and it turns silver gray and so still
pretty. To much work if you don't live aboard. It's a great wood
to build an entire boat from except that it's heavy. Still it would
be a boat you could hand t down to your Great great Grandchildren
and their great Grand kids could still be sailing it 300 years from
now. This assumes you don't use metal screws to rot away but black
Locust trunnels instead
--
Doug Pollard
Albin Vega Sea Legs 2225
KK4YGO
On 08/05/2014 02:14 PM,
coe.richard@... [AlbinVega] wrote:
If you want varnished teak, the best way to approach it is
to buy one of the many drying agents on the market for teak and get as much oil
off the surface. Sand it and then put
two coats of penetrating epoxy on the bare wood. The penetrating epoxy seals the wood very
well. You need to wait for at least 5
days so the epoxy is fully cured, then you can start putting your coats of
varnish on. I used this process on a lot
of the mahogany I varnished, except I didn’t have the problem of removing the
excess oil. When you seal it this way,
you don’t have to thin your first couple of coats of varnish.
I made my new cockpit locker seats by epoxying 6mm and 4mm
marine plywood together. I find that a
single commercial sheet of marine plywood has a tendency to warp. By epoxying the two pieces together on a flat
surface, with heavy weights on top, I end up with a more stable product. To make the lids stronger, I epoxied and
screwed lengths of aluminum angle across the center, long ways, of each lid. I drill holes in the raised side of the angle
every couple of inches, which gives me the ability to put carabineers through
the holes and hang line from so I don’t have to go digging in the locker
looking for the line I want.
Here is where I probably part ways with most. Even though I used African mahogany finished
marine plywood, I painted the cockpit lids.
They will get a coat of non-skid also.
I have no exposed wood on the outside of my boat. All the beautiful varnishing is on the inside
where it will last for years and years with little work to keep it looking
great. All the wood on the outside, like
the fiberglass, is painted with two coats of epoxy primer and a minimum of two
coats of two part LP paint. I should not
have to worry about the outside wood for years either.
I used 1/2 inch Starboard to make my companion way slats from,
instead of painted plywood, because it is so stable. The only problem is that it is much heavier
than plywood, so you have to be careful how much and where you use it. The slats came out great and the Starboard
was very easy to work with.Rics/v Blue Max#2692www.ric-maxfield.net
to buy one of the many drying agents on the market for teak and get as much oil
off the surface. Sand it and then put
two coats of penetrating epoxy on the bare wood. The penetrating epoxy seals the wood very
well. You need to wait for at least 5
days so the epoxy is fully cured, then you can start putting your coats of
varnish on. I used this process on a lot
of the mahogany I varnished, except I didn’t have the problem of removing the
excess oil. When you seal it this way,
you don’t have to thin your first couple of coats of varnish.
I made my new cockpit locker seats by epoxying 6mm and 4mm
marine plywood together. I find that a
single commercial sheet of marine plywood has a tendency to warp. By epoxying the two pieces together on a flat
surface, with heavy weights on top, I end up with a more stable product. To make the lids stronger, I epoxied and
screwed lengths of aluminum angle across the center, long ways, of each lid. I drill holes in the raised side of the angle
every couple of inches, which gives me the ability to put carabineers through
the holes and hang line from so I don’t have to go digging in the locker
looking for the line I want.
Here is where I probably part ways with most. Even though I used African mahogany finished
marine plywood, I painted the cockpit lids.
They will get a coat of non-skid also.
I have no exposed wood on the outside of my boat. All the beautiful varnishing is on the inside
where it will last for years and years with little work to keep it looking
great. All the wood on the outside, like
the fiberglass, is painted with two coats of epoxy primer and a minimum of two
coats of two part LP paint. I should not
have to worry about the outside wood for years either.
I used 1/2 inch Starboard to make my companion way slats from,
instead of painted plywood, because it is so stable. The only problem is that it is much heavier
than plywood, so you have to be careful how much and where you use it. The slats came out great and the Starboard
was very easy to work with.Rics/v Blue Max#2692www.ric-maxfield.net
Ric, do you have a source for the Starboard? I have some that needs replacing. Thanks, Walt To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comFrom: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comDate: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 19:54:29 -0700Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] Re: Locker Lids
If you want varnished teak, the best way to approach it is
to buy one of the many drying agents on the market for teak and get as much oil
off the surface. Sand it and then put
two coats of penetrating epoxy on the bare wood. The penetrating epoxy seals the wood very
well. You need to wait for at least 5
days so the epoxy is fully cured, then you can start putting your coats of
varnish on. I used this process on a lot
of the mahogany I varnished, except I didn’t have the problem of removing the
excess oil. When you seal it this way,
you don’t have to thin your first couple of coats of varnish.
I made my new cockpit locker seats by epoxying 6mm and 4mm
marine plywood together. I find that a
single commercial sheet of marine plywood has a tendency to warp. By epoxying the two pieces together on a flat
surface, with heavy weights on top, I end up with a more stable product. To make the lids stronger, I epoxied and
screwed lengths of aluminum angle across the center, long ways, of each lid. I drill holes in the raised side of the angle
every couple of inches, which gives me the ability to put carabineers through
the holes and hang line from so I don’t have to go digging in the locker
looking for the line I want.
Here is where I probably part ways with most. Even though I used African mahogany finished
marine plywood, I painted the cockpit lids.
They will get a coat of non-skid also.
I have no exposed wood on the outside of my boat. All the beautiful varnishing is on the inside
where it will last for years and years with little work to keep it looking
great. All the wood on the outside, like
the fiberglass, is painted with two coats of epoxy primer and a minimum of two
coats of two part LP paint. I should not
have to worry about the outside wood for years either.
I used 1/2 inch Starboard to make my companion way slats from,
instead of painted plywood, because it is so stable. The only problem is that it is much heavier
than plywood, so you have to be careful how much and where you use it. The slats came out great and the Starboard
was very easy to work with.Rics/v Blue Max#2692www.ric-maxfield.net
If you want varnished teak, the best way to approach it is
to buy one of the many drying agents on the market for teak and get as much oil
off the surface. Sand it and then put
two coats of penetrating epoxy on the bare wood. The penetrating epoxy seals the wood very
well. You need to wait for at least 5
days so the epoxy is fully cured, then you can start putting your coats of
varnish on. I used this process on a lot
of the mahogany I varnished, except I didn’t have the problem of removing the
excess oil. When you seal it this way,
you don’t have to thin your first couple of coats of varnish.
I made my new cockpit locker seats by epoxying 6mm and 4mm
marine plywood together. I find that a
single commercial sheet of marine plywood has a tendency to warp. By epoxying the two pieces together on a flat
surface, with heavy weights on top, I end up with a more stable product. To make the lids stronger, I epoxied and
screwed lengths of aluminum angle across the center, long ways, of each lid. I drill holes in the raised side of the angle
every couple of inches, which gives me the ability to put carabineers through
the holes and hang line from so I don’t have to go digging in the locker
looking for the line I want.
Here is where I probably part ways with most. Even though I used African mahogany finished
marine plywood, I painted the cockpit lids.
They will get a coat of non-skid also.
I have no exposed wood on the outside of my boat. All the beautiful varnishing is on the inside
where it will last for years and years with little work to keep it looking
great. All the wood on the outside, like
the fiberglass, is painted with two coats of epoxy primer and a minimum of two
coats of two part LP paint. I should not
have to worry about the outside wood for years either.
I used 1/2 inch Starboard to make my companion way slats from,
instead of painted plywood, because it is so stable. The only problem is that it is much heavier
than plywood, so you have to be careful how much and where you use it. The slats came out great and the Starboard
was very easy to work with.Rics/v Blue Max#2692www.ric-maxfield.net
I'm one of those that doesn't mind doing brite work that much..until my carpal tunnel flares up anyway, having started refinishing gunstocks 50 years ago. I use the old time method of thinning compatible varnish with real turpentine, based on the theory that it is derived from wood oils. I apply as many coats as possible the first day, then scuff the next and apply what I can. Repeat until something more important comes up or you are happy.....if you want it perfect.....let it cure ,wet sand and buff with plastic polish.
Walt,Both Defender and West Marine carry Starboard. West Marine calls it marine lumber. I bought the boards for my companionway slats from boatoutfitters.com because they seemed to carry larger sizes and would custom cut. I had them cut the sheet into 3 pieces, just larger than what I needed for the slats, which made for a more compact shipment with less possibility of damage. It also meant that I didn't have to pay for the whole sheet, just the pieces the sizes I needed.Rics/v Blue Max#2692www.ric-maxfield.net
I've done pretty much everything to Starboard that I do with wood. For a long time it wasn't possible to glue it, but now there is a glue-like substance to join pieces (believe it or not, I have even joined pieces with hot glue and the joint was pretty strong -- no I didn't use it on the boat). You can use 5200 as a sealant with it -- but it isn't a structural joint.Technically the material is "high density polyethylene" -- Starboard is a brand name. It is available in some colors and comes in non-skid surface. Most plastic shops should have it in stock. In the Northwest we have TAP Plastics and they carry it. (They also have a work shop in their stores and you can pay then to do all the cutting, routing, or whatever.) To save money, I do the work myself and my only complaint is that when routing the resulting "sawdust" (for lack of a less descriptive term) are little plastic pieces that seem to collect everywhere.Chris Brown
Optimists are usually disappointed.
Pessimists are either right or pleasantly surprised. I tend to be a
disappointed pessimist.
Optimists are usually disappointed.
Pessimists are either right or pleasantly surprised. I tend to be a
disappointed pessimist.
Thanks Ric. I incorporated a fillet table into my stern pulpit(pushpit). Last winter somebody hit the boat and bent the uprights. It fractured the back board of the table. Of course no witnesses and no note. $145.00 for a new table. This site is going to save me a lot. The table was from Magma and put together with screws which have worked well. Since it isn't glued I'll just be able to screw in a new section. WaltTo: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comFrom: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.comDate: Sat, 9 Aug 2014 15:08:13 -0600Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] Re: Locker Lids
Can Starboard be planed like wood??
Alan
Can Starboard be planed like wood??
Alan
I have and old Shop Smith table saw (my uncle bought it new in 1954 when I was still a pup) that has a joiner on one end. I was able to set the angle I wanted on the joiner for the tops and bottoms of the companionway slats and run them across. The Starboard cut perfectly and the slats fit together like I actually knew what I was doing. By the way, I'm retiring the end of next week and get to start working on the boat full time. I should have it in the water before the first snowfall. Oh, that's right, we don't have snow in Southern California. Before the holidays then.Rics/v Blue Max#2692www.ric-maxfield.net
I have a pretty strong opinion about using wood or plastic to make
the hatches from but it is not about which lasts the longest or
requires the least maintenance. MY opinion involves what looks the
best and which maintains the traditional looks of a maybe 40 year
old boat. Our Boats are antiques! When Albin built the Vega they put
wooden hatches on the boat because it was traditional and back then.
A boat without any wood trim was considered an abomination by most
buyers. They could have made all the trim fiberglass and it would
have been cheaper for them. There were a few boats built back then
that didn't have any wood trim and they did not sell well and that
of course may have been for other reasons as well? Over many years
of keeping boats in marinas I have noticed and a few friends and I
have talked about it on occasion. When a guy likes his boat, as he
leaves the marina to go home he walks nearly sideways looking back
and admireing his boat and you can see it on his face. The man that
doesn't is the very man who's boat ends up setting on a marina back
lot in total disrepair. Pretty boats last longer than ugly ones as
do finely shaped and sea kindly and sea worthy boats. The Vega has
all these attributes. She has a minimum of wood trim and I
understand replacing it with plastic if you don't like wood. The
Vega was trimmed in sepella not teak and not plastic. IF you like
the wood but are too lazy to spend a couple hours varnishing once a
year you might be seeing the last of her because you are not going
to care for her looks much and everytime your eye travels across
those hatches you will whince and gone will be a certain pleasure
that you recive from your boat. It reminds me of buying a fine
stallion and shaving all his hair off. IF you like plastic hatches
by all means have them. For a lot of years I had wooden boats
because I concidered them a thing of beauty to be maintained and
sailed for a lifetime. Now we have glass boats that with a minimum
of maintenance will last a life time. There are pretty boats setting
in slips and sailed most weekends and there are some derelicts on
the back lot. The only difference between them is maintenance.
--
Doug Pollard
Albin Vega Sea Legs 2225
KK4YGO
the hatches from but it is not about which lasts the longest or
requires the least maintenance. MY opinion involves what looks the
best and which maintains the traditional looks of a maybe 40 year
old boat. Our Boats are antiques! When Albin built the Vega they put
wooden hatches on the boat because it was traditional and back then.
A boat without any wood trim was considered an abomination by most
buyers. They could have made all the trim fiberglass and it would
have been cheaper for them. There were a few boats built back then
that didn't have any wood trim and they did not sell well and that
of course may have been for other reasons as well? Over many years
of keeping boats in marinas I have noticed and a few friends and I
have talked about it on occasion. When a guy likes his boat, as he
leaves the marina to go home he walks nearly sideways looking back
and admireing his boat and you can see it on his face. The man that
doesn't is the very man who's boat ends up setting on a marina back
lot in total disrepair. Pretty boats last longer than ugly ones as
do finely shaped and sea kindly and sea worthy boats. The Vega has
all these attributes. She has a minimum of wood trim and I
understand replacing it with plastic if you don't like wood. The
Vega was trimmed in sepella not teak and not plastic. IF you like
the wood but are too lazy to spend a couple hours varnishing once a
year you might be seeing the last of her because you are not going
to care for her looks much and everytime your eye travels across
those hatches you will whince and gone will be a certain pleasure
that you recive from your boat. It reminds me of buying a fine
stallion and shaving all his hair off. IF you like plastic hatches
by all means have them. For a lot of years I had wooden boats
because I concidered them a thing of beauty to be maintained and
sailed for a lifetime. Now we have glass boats that with a minimum
of maintenance will last a life time. There are pretty boats setting
in slips and sailed most weekends and there are some derelicts on
the back lot. The only difference between them is maintenance.
--
Doug Pollard
Albin Vega Sea Legs 2225
KK4YGO