Lithium Battery Installation feedback requested

Feb 6, 1998
11,756
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
The IP
Thanks Rod, Curious to see the Victron IP65 "plug in" charger in the circuit. I would think you'd want to charge from the alternator (if correctly sized) or from Shore Power/Generator through a Sterling programmable charger. Why the plug in charger. I'll read the LiFePo 101 and maybe it will be answered there. Tried to do some funding on the MHT page but it rejected it. I'll try again tomorrow.

By the way, everybody out there. If you haven't put some funding in to keep the MHT site alive consider all the advice that has appeared on there and ask yourself what you would have done without it. Some of you might not have needed it, but for me, it was my go to site for everything from how to set up floats on my mooring line to considerations like this for installing Lithium Batteries..
IP65 is only shown to charge the start batt at dock 14.7-14.8V. A Separate charger would be used for house 14.0V- 14.2V. Such as an inverter/charger etc.. DC DC is for alt charging .
 

RJL

.
Apr 24, 2026
2
Westsail 32 San Francisco
I have held off using LIPO on my boat and will likely do so for... A long time. I do have a WattCycle 314ah for the RV trailer. Not much mileage on that one but so far acting as expected. The tech is getting pretty decent. I made my choice based on Will Prowse vids - to me the guy looks straight and does a decent job, if a little hyper. The WattCycle batts stood and continue to stand out as one of the best built batteries. Their software has had problem which have made them a target of internet pile-on for the last year. I'm quite sure a few of those people had a legitimate bad experience and I'm also quite sure most of it is the result of a lust to shout out and some installation problems and misconceptions about how one approaches tech, complex products.

But that's not why I post here. There is an aspect of lithium batts that I believe any user should look at carefully but that's completely minimized, ignored and left out of almost all general purpose media coverage. In the wrong circumstances they can be deadly. And the "wrong circumstances" are not that hard to encounter. It boils down to 1) heat; 2) physical damage; 3) electrical damage due to overcharging. The nominal danger is fire and the way a batt can kill and potentially destroy everything nearby is threefold: 1) huge clouds of extremely poisonous smoke emitted almost instantly if a fire starts; 2) extremely high burn temps; 3) lithium fire can NOT be extinguished by _any_ means available to anybody in practice.

I'll go over the a couple issues that are easy to check briefly. But anybody who values due diligence needs to do their own because that is the only way a person gets convinced - they convince themselves if/when they decide to look at something and dig for their truth.

The ambient heat factor in how these batts could ignite works in combination with what the batt is "doing" and the temp. Batts are ok up to about 140F. That's not a temp you find in most human living space. But if the batt is in a hot space and is being charged fast or has damage then we're much closer to a problem. Old batts, possibly damaged physically or electrically are much more susceptible to heat.

Over charging: The tech is really very very good and there is a lot of safety features in batts sold the last couple years. But. That's when everything "else" is ok. If you look at the BattleBorn issues Will Prowse documents on his vids, you see a production design fault which can cause these batts to melt and explode. Will tests his batteries at their manufacturer ratings - their maximum ratings - which many user will never approach. But many will because you buy the batts to _use_ them and that includes drawing huge amounts of power for the windlass or the water heater or thrusters or the microwave. And use on a boat include bouncing about, shaking everything - so loose internal connection on a batt are directly stressed. Testing to maximum rated usesage is completely legitimate and some sailor might well demand that of their batts. Electrical systems can and do fail and act wrong.

The the above para is meant to point out that sh* happens and it's not all that uncommon, actually. Especially considering how the market works and how everybody is looking for a supercheap deal. A lot of batts on the market don't measure up and so "everything else" can not be counted upon to "be equal". Even though the tech is, in fact, miraculous, the real world does not play by any rules. Betting on the tech to make life perfect and safe is something that we all do in one way or another all the time... But it IS a bet. And in the case of LIPO batts, the bet involves your life and those around you.

Cannot be extinguished. Check with _any_ fire department. They all have a policy to let lithium burn out. HUGE amounts of water can beat a lithum fire down by reducing the surface temps below the flame point. But as soon as the water supply stops, the electrical short inside the batt heats it up again and reignites the fire. Read some comments of the RadioControl hobbiest crowd who have use Lithium batts for years. And how the little bitty ones they use have incinerated some of their cars and garages, even though they were in "safety bags". How they spend much effort to create safe batt storage OUTSIDE their homes if they can do that. Those guys know their batts and have developed a _large_ respect for the danger and the importance of good handling.

Smoke. Check with _any_ fire department. If that nice e-bike under the stairs starts to burn, the recommended action is to run, if you cannot physically remove the burning battery (that powers the e-bike) outdoors w/in 30 seconds - a minute is pushing it hard because of the smoke and heat. A lithium fire can fill a 12x12 room w/poison in 30 secs.

But I bought a LIPO for my RV. How does that compute? It's a _calculated_ bet which depends on details that cannot be readily created on a boat. I can install the batt OUTSIDE the RV living space where there is a moderate chance it can burn itself out w/out destroying _too_ much else and where it can't instantly poison my lungs. The batt box includes heat shields to contain the flames and the poison smoke is not contained in a small living space. I can bale out of the RV real quick - I'm not going to plunge into icy water and drown immediately (although I might freeze if I'm in the wrong place...). Before I did my research, I was planning to install it under the bed. That plan changed, big time.

So heads up. It is miraculous tech, but there is a LOT of power stored in one batt and if it gets out the wrong way, things can get very very bad. Think about the small space on a boat, the impossibility of extinguishing a lithium fire, the importance of an excellently designed and installed charge system that won't stress the batt, what happens if the boat is rolled and the batt breaks loosel and is thrown onto the top of the hot engine, the importance of a batt that is truly well put together with robust functioning safety features as advertised.

I bought one. I'm using one. I think chances in my use case are good. But. Do look beyond the enthusiasm of the advertising people, the buzz feed of the WonderTech community. Try to get the whole story. It's readily available to those who care to look. It made me rethink my use of LIPO batts. Respected people put them in boats. Reasonably people can draw different conclusions. Just spend a little time, think about the whole picture ahead of time, to reach _your_ conclusion.

RJL
 
Jun 17, 2022
519
Hunter 380 Comox BC
Lifepo4 has been proven time after time to be safer than a flooded lead acid.... .... is this a troll with a new account ??

I wish this forum had a way to downvote posts that spread misinformation....
 

colemj

.
Jul 13, 2004
1,036
Dolphin Catamaran Dolphin 460 Mystic, CT
It boils down to 1) heat; 2) physical damage; 3) electrical damage due to overcharging.
...
Over charging:
...
Cannot be extinguished.
You shouldn't present your unexamined fears as facts.

Overcharging. Attached is a pic I borrowed from Rod Collins showing the "damage" caused by overcharging LFP cells to 100V until they completely failed. No fire, no smoke, no explosion - just a lot of swelling and graceful failure. I can confidently state that charging lead batteries to 100V will result in explosion and fire and acid everywhere. If you are near them, you are dead.

Cannot be extinguished. Maybe, but they also can't be caused to catch fire. Really. There isn't a single incident of LFP catching fire unless they were part of a conflagration that wasn't caused by them. Search for this - people, including the ABYC, have tried to catch them on fire, and the only way they would catch on fire was to actually light them on fire. Lighting something on fire does not prove they can catch on fire. It is like throwing a piece of paper in a bonfire and stating the paper can catch itself on fire.

Physical damage. Go ahead and do some more searching and you will find videos of people driving metal spikes through LFP batteries, crushing them in hydraulic presses, and all sorts of other strange ways to inflict physical damage. None of them caught fire, although most did smoke and vent. However, this type of physical damage is impossible to happen on a boat.

Heat. There are many reports of LFP batteries failing because they were installed in a hot engine compartment and charged heavily. However, these are reports of the battery failing in terms of capacity loss, not in terms of fire, smoke, or other damaging means. For what it's worth, lead batteries also experience this in the same way.

I leave you with a picture of a boat that burned beyond saving from their lead batteries being overcharged in a hot environment. Lead batteries are very dangerous. Much more so than LFP.

Mark

Cells after 100V charging.jpg


AGM fire.jpg
 
Last edited:

Johann

.
Jun 3, 2004
570
Leopard 39 Pensacola
Cannot be extinguished. Check with _any_ fire department. They all have a policy to let lithium burn out. HUGE amounts of water can beat a lithum fire down by reducing the surface temps below the flame point. But as soon as the water supply stops, the electrical short inside the batt heats it up again and reignites the fire. Read some comments of the RadioControl hobbiest crowd who have use Lithium batts for years. And how the little bitty ones they use have incinerated some of their cars and garages, even though they were in "safety bags". How they spend much effort to create safe batt storage OUTSIDE their homes if they can do that. Those guys know their batts and have developed a _large_ respect for the danger and the importance of good handling.
You information is incorrect regarding LFP. The thermal runaway temperature is much higher and the burn temperature is much lower than LMO/LNO or LiPo (Lithium Polymer). Those more volatile chemistries are what you would typically find in smaller batteries found in radio controlled hobby vehicles and e-bikes. Although there are some e-bikes with LFP, the trade off is less range or more weight. Also, LFP batteries do not release their oxygen when burning, unlike the other mentioned chemistries, so an LFP fire is extinguishable.

Regarding fire fighting policies, they are going to assume worst case chemistry.
 

dLj

.
Mar 23, 2017
5,026
Belliure 41 Back in the Chesapeake
I have held off using LIPO on my boat and will likely do so for... A long time. I do have a WattCycle 314ah for the RV trailer. Not much mileage on that one but so far acting as expected. The tech is getting pretty decent. I made my choice based on Will Prowse vids - to me the guy looks straight and does a decent job, if a little hyper. The WattCycle batts stood and continue to stand out as one of the best built batteries. Their software has had problem which have made them a target of internet pile-on for the last year. I'm quite sure a few of those people had a legitimate bad experience and I'm also quite sure most of it is the result of a lust to shout out and some installation problems and misconceptions about how one approaches tech, complex products.

But that's not why I post here. There is an aspect of lithium batts that I believe any user should look at carefully but that's completely minimized, ignored and left out of almost all general purpose media coverage. In the wrong circumstances they can be deadly. And the "wrong circumstances" are not that hard to encounter. It boils down to 1) heat; 2) physical damage; 3) electrical damage due to overcharging. The nominal danger is fire and the way a batt can kill and potentially destroy everything nearby is threefold: 1) huge clouds of extremely poisonous smoke emitted almost instantly if a fire starts; 2) extremely high burn temps; 3) lithium fire can NOT be extinguished by _any_ means available to anybody in practice.

I'll go over the a couple issues that are easy to check briefly. But anybody who values due diligence needs to do their own because that is the only way a person gets convinced - they convince themselves if/when they decide to look at something and dig for their truth.

The ambient heat factor in how these batts could ignite works in combination with what the batt is "doing" and the temp. Batts are ok up to about 140F. That's not a temp you find in most human living space. But if the batt is in a hot space and is being charged fast or has damage then we're much closer to a problem. Old batts, possibly damaged physically or electrically are much more susceptible to heat.

Over charging: The tech is really very very good and there is a lot of safety features in batts sold the last couple years. But. That's when everything "else" is ok. If you look at the BattleBorn issues Will Prowse documents on his vids, you see a production design fault which can cause these batts to melt and explode. Will tests his batteries at their manufacturer ratings - their maximum ratings - which many user will never approach. But many will because you buy the batts to _use_ them and that includes drawing huge amounts of power for the windlass or the water heater or thrusters or the microwave. And use on a boat include bouncing about, shaking everything - so loose internal connection on a batt are directly stressed. Testing to maximum rated usesage is completely legitimate and some sailor might well demand that of their batts. Electrical systems can and do fail and act wrong.

The the above para is meant to point out that sh* happens and it's not all that uncommon, actually. Especially considering how the market works and how everybody is looking for a supercheap deal. A lot of batts on the market don't measure up and so "everything else" can not be counted upon to "be equal". Even though the tech is, in fact, miraculous, the real world does not play by any rules. Betting on the tech to make life perfect and safe is something that we all do in one way or another all the time... But it IS a bet. And in the case of LIPO batts, the bet involves your life and those around you.

Cannot be extinguished. Check with _any_ fire department. They all have a policy to let lithium burn out. HUGE amounts of water can beat a lithum fire down by reducing the surface temps below the flame point. But as soon as the water supply stops, the electrical short inside the batt heats it up again and reignites the fire. Read some comments of the RadioControl hobbiest crowd who have use Lithium batts for years. And how the little bitty ones they use have incinerated some of their cars and garages, even though they were in "safety bags". How they spend much effort to create safe batt storage OUTSIDE their homes if they can do that. Those guys know their batts and have developed a _large_ respect for the danger and the importance of good handling.

Smoke. Check with _any_ fire department. If that nice e-bike under the stairs starts to burn, the recommended action is to run, if you cannot physically remove the burning battery (that powers the e-bike) outdoors w/in 30 seconds - a minute is pushing it hard because of the smoke and heat. A lithium fire can fill a 12x12 room w/poison in 30 secs.

But I bought a LIPO for my RV. How does that compute? It's a _calculated_ bet which depends on details that cannot be readily created on a boat. I can install the batt OUTSIDE the RV living space where there is a moderate chance it can burn itself out w/out destroying _too_ much else and where it can't instantly poison my lungs. The batt box includes heat shields to contain the flames and the poison smoke is not contained in a small living space. I can bale out of the RV real quick - I'm not going to plunge into icy water and drown immediately (although I might freeze if I'm in the wrong place...). Before I did my research, I was planning to install it under the bed. That plan changed, big time.

So heads up. It is miraculous tech, but there is a LOT of power stored in one batt and if it gets out the wrong way, things can get very very bad. Think about the small space on a boat, the impossibility of extinguishing a lithium fire, the importance of an excellently designed and installed charge system that won't stress the batt, what happens if the boat is rolled and the batt breaks loosel and is thrown onto the top of the hot engine, the importance of a batt that is truly well put together with robust functioning safety features as advertised.

I bought one. I'm using one. I think chances in my use case are good. But. Do look beyond the enthusiasm of the advertising people, the buzz feed of the WonderTech community. Try to get the whole story. It's readily available to those who care to look. It made me rethink my use of LIPO batts. Respected people put them in boats. Reasonably people can draw different conclusions. Just spend a little time, think about the whole picture ahead of time, to reach _your_ conclusion.

RJL
This post is simply wrong. LiFePo batteries are the safest commercially available batteries available today. No documented case exists of LiFePo batteries catching fire due to their chemistry.

dj
 
May 17, 2004
6,109
Beneteau Oceanis 37 Havre de Grace
If you look at the BattleBorn issues Will Prowse documents on his vids, you see a production design fault which can cause these batts to melt and explode.
The videos have shown design faults, or at least controversial design decisions, related to melting of the batteries, and in some cases dead batteries. To my knowledge there have not been any videos of “explosions”. Those are very different risk levels.
Read some comments of the RadioControl hobbiest crowd who have use Lithium batts for years. And how the little bitty ones they use have incinerated some of their cars and garages, even though they were in "safety bags". How they spend much effort to create safe batt storage OUTSIDE their homes if they can do that. Those guys know their batts and have developed a _large_ respect for the danger and the importance of good handling.
Basically all of this history is tied to NMC and similar older, higher energy density lithium chemistries. The risk levels for LiFePO4 have been documented to be significantly different.
what happens if the boat is rolled and the batt breaks loosel and is thrown onto the top of the hot engine
That’s going to be a bad day with any battery chemistry. It’s probably going to be less bad with LiFePO4 than with sulfuric acid getting thrown everywhere. And it’s really not that hard to design a system where the battery won’t break loose, or at least won’t get thrown onto an engine. That’d be a pretty spectacular failure of both battery hold-down and positioning.
 

MFD

.
Jun 23, 2016
277
Hunter 41DS Pacific NW USA
Aside from all the other info about different battery chemistries under the guise of ‘lithium’.

I wonder sometimes about people doing the ‘drop in’ upgrades with little attention to proper wiring, fusing, and other matters.

Lack of attention to these kinds of things, proper charging regimes included, makes boating more expensive for all of us.
 

RJL

.
Apr 24, 2026
2
Westsail 32 San Francisco
Guys, apologies. Clearly wrong here - my bad. I carelessly equated LFP batts w/ LIPO (label often used interchangeably) and NMV batts and other types of lithium. Sorry to publish this bad info, glad people caught it.

I do try to use caution about install plans for anything and I after some thought I stick w/my decision to not put batteries in my living space, certainly not under my bed. But I can see where others can come to different conclusions. I know incorrect info does not help anybody ever and I don't like being a source.

Better days to all. RJL
 

Johann

.
Jun 3, 2004
570
Leopard 39 Pensacola
Guys, apologies. Clearly wrong here - my bad. I carelessly equated LFP batts w/ LIPO (label often used interchangeably) and NMV batts and other types of lithium. Sorry to publish this bad info, glad people caught it.

I do try to use caution about install plans for anything and I after some thought I stick w/my decision to not put batteries in my living space, certainly not under my bed. But I can see where others can come to different conclusions. I know incorrect info does not help anybody ever and I don't like being a source.

Better days to all. RJL
Welcome to SBO ;)

I think I can confidently say we have all had misconceptions about LFP batteries at some point so don’t feel bad. But LFP batteries have become commonplace enough that there is a pretty wide base of experience and information… and the purpose of a forum like this is learning.
 
  • Like
Likes: Bob S
Oct 26, 2010
2,213
Hunter 40.5 Beaufort, SC
Original Poster here: Back to the subject at hand. I appreciate everyone's input and perspective.

I have purchased one of the WattCycle 314AH LiFeP04 using Rod's discount code (Thanks Rod). I've had a little delay in getting it installed due to some health issues so it is on the boat but not hooked up, sitting at 53% SOC, which I understand is about the right SOC for storage. It will be placed low in the boat under the sinks with a short run to the Electrical Panel as shown. The Lithium Battery is about 12 feet from the Solar and the Sterling AC Charger and about 2 feet from the FLA starter battery. I have attached some pictures of the equipment I currently have onboard. I know the OEM Hitachi 80 is not the ideal charger but I'd like a "strategy" for installation that allows me to use as much of the equipment have right now and still keep the system healthy as I upgrade the Alternator. There have been some recent discussion on a similar situation and I have been keeping track of that. It will be well restrained from movement.

I do not have a DC-DC Charger but will probably need one?

Equipment I have:
OEM Hitachi 80 (dumb) alternator (with powered exhaust vent position just behind and above the alternator - might not do much good though)
ProNautic 12-50P programmable Charger (Has a LiFeP04 charge profiles)
BlueSky Solar Controller with 100W panel (for keeping FLA house batteries charged - the Lithium will replace these batteries
BlueSky ACR
An AC (plug in) 12 Lithium Battery Charger supplied with the WattCycle Battery.

Thoughts on what I have, what I don't have, and the best way to hook it up are appreciated.
IMG20260406174135.jpg IMG20260417094406.jpg IMG20260417094229.jpg IMG20260417094138.jpg IMG20260417094116.jpg IMG20260406073318.jpg
 
Last edited:
Jan 11, 2014
13,951
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
ProNautic 12-50P programmable Charger (I believe it can run two different charge profiles)
No, it has multiple options and charging can be customized, but it can only deliver one charging protocol at a time. It can be connected to 3 batteries with each battery having the same charging profile and the total output (50a) is divided between the batteries.

I do not have a DC-DC Charger but will probably need one?
Yes you will need a DC-DC charger if you want all charging sources, solar, alternator, and charger to simultaneously charge the house and start/reserve battery.

BlueSky ACR
In general ACRs do not work well with mixed chemistry systems as the LA and LFP batteries likely have different charging protocols. The DC-DC charger would replace the ACR.

An AC (plug in) 12 Lithium Battery Charger supplied with the WattCycle Battery.
No need for this as the Pronautic 1250 can charge the LFP battery.

On Rod's site, MarineHowTo.com he has an article on a simple LFP installation. Short version: Alternator charges LA battery. LFP battery charged by DC-DC charger from the Start Battery, solar, and Pronautic charger. There is a bit more to the installation in the article, this is the elevator pitch version.
 
Oct 26, 2010
2,213
Hunter 40.5 Beaufort, SC
A @dlochner Thanks for the rapid response. I caught that about the ProNautic and have fixed that have reviewed Rod's diagram.

I have the MHT article and diagram. I also have the heavy duty FTZ crimpers and have made some very good crimps on the 2/0 cable you see in the pics so I'm ready for Crimping. I may abe ble to repurpose some of the new heavy duty cable and some of the bus bars. I tend to opt for heavier cabling than the minimum keeping in mind having to bend around corners that sometimes limits the size of the cables.

Hoping to get on this in a month or so once the Admiral give me the "green light" to do a little more work.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Likes: JamesG161
Oct 26, 2010
2,213
Hunter 40.5 Beaufort, SC
Looking at the ProNautic charge profile for LiFeP04 it shows.
LiFeP04 Profile 1 14.8V Charging 14.4 Float
Profile 2 14.6V Charging 14.4 Float

Based on discussi on in the other recent thread, it seems that a custom of something lower might be better for long term health. Seems I remember Rod saying something about a lower voltage and his pack is many years old and somebody else suggested 13.8V? I can't seem to find the discussion though. Any help in refreshing my memory on that discussion. The ProNautic allows a "custom profile" so I can set that up if I need to.

Thanks in advance
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,756
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Looking at the ProNautic charge profile for LiFeP04 it shows.
LiFeP04 Profile 1 14.8V Charging 14.4 Float
Profile 2 14.6V Charging 14.4 Float

Based on discussi on in the other recent thread, it seems that a custom of something lower might be better for long term health. Seems I remember Rod saying something about a lower voltage and his pack is many years old and somebody else suggested 13.8V? I can't seem to find the discussion though. Any help in refreshing my memory on that discussion. The ProNautic allows a "custom profile" so I can set that up if I need to.

Thanks in advance
DO NOT use the preset! ProMariner has zero clue how to charge LFP. Create a custom profile of 14.2V absorption & 13.5V float and you're golden.
 
  • Like
Likes: mermike
Oct 26, 2010
2,213
Hunter 40.5 Beaufort, SC
Thanks Rod. 14.2 Absorption and 13.5 Float it is.

I have two "On Off" battery switches right now. One between the House Battery (after the Battery safety Fuse) the and the DC Power Buss (bilge pump comes directly from the battery before the switch.) I have another "On -Off" battery switch on the output of the Start Battery (after the battery safety fuse). Would those replace the one switch you show in your simplified diagram?

Right now I have another "On-Off" switch between the Start Battery buss and the House Battery buss that I can use in an emergency to allow the Start Battery to power the DC buss or the House Battery to start the engine. It is normally in the OFF position with a tag on it saying "Emergency Crossconnt" with a short description of how to use. A "crossconnect" where I switch the house battery OFF before I shut the crossconnect switch to use the Start Battery in an emergency to power the DC buss and conversly, where I shut off the Start Battery ON-OFF before I shut the crossconnect to let the House Battery start the engine if the start battery fails. I saw this in one of MHT recommendations I believe. Would this still be okay as long as it is only for emergencyies. I know you wouldn't want the crossconnect shut except in an emergency.
 
Last edited:
Feb 6, 1998
11,756
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Thanks Rod. 14.2 Absorption and 13.5 Float it is.

I have two "On Off" battery switches right now. One between the House Battery (after the Battery safety Fuse) the and the DC Power Buss (bilge pump comes directly from the battery before the switch.) I have another "On -Off" battery switch on the output of the Start Battery (after the battery safety fuse). Would those replace the one switch you show in your simplified diagram?

Right now I have another "On-Off" switch between the Start Battery buss and the House Battery buss that I can use in an emergency to allow the Start Battery to power the DC buss or the House Battery to start the engine. It is normally in the OFF position with a tag on it saying "Emergency Crossconnt" with a short description of how to use. A "crossconnect" where I switch the house battery OFF before I shut the crossconnect switch to use the Start Battery in an emergency to power the DC buss and conversly, where I shut off the Start Battery ON-OFF before I shut the crossconnect to let the House Battery start the engine if the start battery fails. I saw this in one of MHT recommendations I believe. Would this still be okay as long as it is only for emergencyies. I know you wouldn't want the crossconnect shut except in an emergency.
Your three switch setup is fine, no need to replace. If you want to charge via the alt a Victron XS-50 set to 40A will be The best bet..
 
Oct 26, 2010
2,213
Hunter 40.5 Beaufort, SC
@Maine Sail Is this the animal I am looking for? It says it is for "smart" alternators. Can I use it with my oem Hitachi dumb alternator?

Victron XS-50.jpg
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
24,454
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Here is the one I purchased. Guidance came from @Maine Sail ’s website.
IMG_0794.png


1777350245832.png