Lines - how to determine if what I have is junk or okay

Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
Is routing a new line through the mast head potentially as simple as butting the new line to the old, and wrapping both with ducktape and then carefully pulling it through the top of the mast?
Duct tape will most likely pull apart. Stitch the butts together to pull them through.
 
Jan 19, 2010
1,169
Catalina 34 Casco Bay
Duct tape will most likely pull apart. Stitch the butts together to pull them through.
There may be an extra step in the process. If you're swapping out the main halyard that has a shackle in an eye and you want to save the halyard as a spare, then you need to attach a "pulling line" to the butt end of the halyard being replaced and make a stopper knot in the bitter end. Pull the old halyard from the boom side and take care not to let it run...Now attach the bitter end of the new halyard to the pulling line and bring it home..
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,024
-na -NA Anywhere USA
As a former sailboat dealer who rigged many masts and repairing them it is up to the rigger to decide to go up. Why? I knew my work but other owned boats if questioning those masts, I refused to go up as it was my life at risk.
Early on as a dealer, I went up a mast unknowingly that the owner had put multiple drill holes into the mast around the spreader bars. Mast collapsed. By the GRACE OF GOD, I was not killed but endured injury for months. It is the rigger to make that call if he feels an owner’s mast is unsafe.
 
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Dec 1, 2020
129
CAL 27 Illahee / Brownsville WA
Thanks for the suggestions. Sounds like some type of angled trim on the two lines and stitching OR the butt and paper-clip mode should work for my needs.

Regarding the Flemish Eye, in look online at how to create that it the site I found indicated this was not a strong eye and not intended to be strong. On the mainsheet there is a SS fitting that attaches to the sail. It's tied to the current line with a bowline, but if I wanted to splice a loop into this fitting when the new halyard is installed what type of eye should be done for that where there is a load.

Splice in a reaving eye, aka Flemish Eye, on tail end fo the halyard. This is cover only eye that eliminates whipping and gives you a place to connect the two halyards with a piece of whipping twine.

If the halyard has spliced in shackles, it will be necessary to run a messenger line first and then reave the halyard.
 
Jan 11, 2014
11,321
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Thanks for the suggestions. Sounds like some type of angled trim on the two lines and stitching OR the butt and paper-clip mode should work for my needs.

Regarding the Flemish Eye, in look online at how to create that it the site I found indicated this was not a strong eye and not intended to be strong. On the mainsheet there is a SS fitting that attaches to the sail. It's tied to the current line with a bowline, but if I wanted to splice a loop into this fitting when the new halyard is installed what type of eye should be done for that where there is a load.
Correct. A Flemish or Reaving Eye is used for 2 purposes: 1) finishing off the the end of the line so it doesn't fray no whipping or melting is necessary, and 2) making it easier to run lines through masts, booms and other places where access is restricted.

To attach a shackle an eye splice is used or some prefer using knots.

When both the old and new halyards have reaving eyes, halyard changes are easy and quick. On the old halyard attach a messenger line with a small knot and tape to secure it. Remove the old halyard by pulling the halyard up and through the masthead bringing the messenger line back down. Secure the tail of the messenger so it doesn't accidentally run up the mast and remove the old halyard. Attach the tail of the new halyard to the messenger line and pull back up the mast and through the masthead. I use ⅛" polyester braided line as a messenger line.

This method does not rely on tape or sewing for attaching the two lines, it is quick and easy. Any powerboats who are nearby will be amazed at the whole process.

If tape is used, I would not use duck tape. Use a good vinyl electrical tape or rigging tape. 3M makes a premium tape for about $3 at a big box HW store or $6 at marine store.
 
Apr 16, 2017
841
Federation NCC-1701 Riverside
The riggers handbook says, if no documentation..throw it away.

Home depot braid has a core of torn up reusable paper towels. Easy to spot.

Some lines might not have a core at all.
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,402
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
My preference is to cut the ends of the line at a diagonal and scarf stitch the ends together making the wrap and stitching as close to the diameter of the current line as possible. I avoid a big wad of duct tape that might get caught in the mast or trying to navigate the turn at the mast head thru the sheave.
:plus:
 
Dec 1, 2020
129
CAL 27 Illahee / Brownsville WA
I cut the end off all the lines. I then checked the core. Several had the no braided inner core of straight running fluff stuff - obviously not boat ready. These are in the garaged supplies. The others all had some type of braided inner core.

I'm thinking I will just buy new Jib, Spinnaker and Main halyards in larger sizes and route these as described here over the next few months so that I know what is on the boat and it's large enough to go aloft safely.
 
Jan 11, 2014
11,321
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
I cut the end off all the lines. I then checked the core. Several had the no braided inner core of straight running fluff stuff - obviously not boat ready. These are in the garaged supplies. The others all had some type of braided inner core.

I'm thinking I will just buy new Jib, Spinnaker and Main halyards in larger sizes and route these as described here over the next few months so that I know what is on the boat and it's large enough to go aloft safely.
Make sure the blocks and sheaves can accommodate the new lines.
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,399
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
The riggers handbook says, if no documentation..throw it away.

Home depot braid has a core of torn up reusable paper towels. Easy to spot.

Some lines might not have a core at all.
Or scrap sewing thread.

The only boat use for these is to measure new tackles and running rigging mods before buying real rope. Can be quite handy for mocking up a new concept, you can recycle it for this purpose many times, and the cost is quickly paid for by the "real" rope you save by not buying a "few extra feet, just to be sure."
 
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