I'm trying to lift my S17 off the trailer. I've got good jacks for both front and rear. I need recommendations for the forward cross member, what material, how heavy it should be, and the best placement. I've tried 1 1/4 in x 10ft black iron pipe placed just ahead of the keel, but it flexes too much.
Lifting my Seaward 17 off the trailer
- Thread starter Dhamil6490
- Start date
Take a look at the loads for the a window or door header made of pine.
Headers & Beams : Size Selection Tables - Southern Pine
The span will be about 10 feet, so 2 2x10x10 foot boards could be bolted together to make a beam. That should be plenty strong to support the boat. See this table: http://www.southernpine.com/app/uploads/SS_1-6L.pdf
Headers & Beams : Size Selection Tables - Southern Pine
The span will be about 10 feet, so 2 2x10x10 foot boards could be bolted together to make a beam. That should be plenty strong to support the boat. See this table: http://www.southernpine.com/app/uploads/SS_1-6L.pdf
Why not post a diagram here what you are trying to do first. Post a photo to help others to offer suggestions of the boat and trailer to include make and model of boat
Excellent idea. Headers are placed with the 10" dimension vertically. My jacks won't support a beam in this orientation. Do you think it would work if I placed the 10" dimension horizontally? Pictures coming.
If you have a stout Oak tree nearby, park under it and use a wide tow strap and "hang" the front from a branch. On a 17' this will be no problem. I've done it on a 21' and 22' before. I've also built a frame to hang a boat once.... and I once built a cradle like set up... pictures attached.
It is possible to lift the boat without using jacks.
Lower the front of the trailer, block up the stern. Raise the front of the trailer so that the stern rests on the blocks (or beam) and is as high as the trailer jack can go. Block the bow with a beam wide enough to remove the trailer. Lower the trailer tongue and remove the trailer.
Reverse the process to put it back on the trailer.
Or you could go with one of these devices:
Jamestown Distributors
Or
Jamestown Distributors
Or
Jamestown Distributors
Of course these all have some expenses associated with them.
Several decades ago we owned a 20 foot trailerable sailboat for 5 years. It weighed just under 1600# total. I used to lift it clear of the trailer pads in our driveway to bottom paint it completely.
I used the beam under our deck that was over part of the driveway. The boat had two four part tackles, mainsheet and vang. One tackle on each side to the perf. alum. toe rails (boat was designed to be hoisted by the rails). Worked just fine, altho I was careful to place a block under the stub keel "just in case". That was for for one end of the hull. I did rig another set of tackles with a pair of 2X6 planks with some 2X6 risers across and above the other end also. That way neither hoisting point was holding over 800#.
I was not worried about 'racking' of the hoist points because the one end was attached to our deck beam.
Plan carefully, be cautious, and do not work underneath without hull support back-up.
Note that the deck beam alone would have sufficed, but the "sling" would have been more complicated. After all that beam was easily sized to support 8 average people standing above it. Small boats have their advantages (!) both under sail and in your driveway.
I used the beam under our deck that was over part of the driveway. The boat had two four part tackles, mainsheet and vang. One tackle on each side to the perf. alum. toe rails (boat was designed to be hoisted by the rails). Worked just fine, altho I was careful to place a block under the stub keel "just in case". That was for for one end of the hull. I did rig another set of tackles with a pair of 2X6 planks with some 2X6 risers across and above the other end also. That way neither hoisting point was holding over 800#.
I was not worried about 'racking' of the hoist points because the one end was attached to our deck beam.
Plan carefully, be cautious, and do not work underneath without hull support back-up.
Note that the deck beam alone would have sufficed, but the "sling" would have been more complicated. After all that beam was easily sized to support 8 average people standing above it. Small boats have their advantages (!) both under sail and in your driveway.
I use the method referred to by @dlochner and it works great. the beam needed for the front doesn't need to be as overbuilt as some suggest if you consider that the weight is transferred, via the straps, to the framework out near the ends of the beam. my real boat weight is about 2500 lb and I used 2/4 lumber throughout. the main beams are screwed and glued together to form a very stout assembly however.
BTW the small support under the bow isn't carrying any weight. it's just there as a safety backup. "just in case". Two HD tow straps, the additional bow support, screws instead of nails, etc. As a former pilot I believe in backup systems.
BTW the small support under the bow isn't carrying any weight. it's just there as a safety backup. "just in case". Two HD tow straps, the additional bow support, screws instead of nails, etc. As a former pilot I believe in backup systems
.
Last edited:
Thanks. I''m trying to do your first procdedure. That's why I need the beam. Looked at the other options. All too expensive at this time.It is possible to lift the boat without using jacks.
Lower the front of the trailer, block up the stern. Raise the front of the trailer so that the stern rests on the blocks (or beam) and is as high as the trailer jack can go. Block the bow with a beam wide enough to remove the trailer. Lower the trailer tongue and remove the trailer.
Reverse the process to put it back on the trailer.
Or you could go with one of these devices:
Jamestown Distributors
www.jamestowndistributors.com
Or
Jamestown Distributors
www.jamestowndistributors.com
Or
Jamestown Distributors
www.jamestowndistributors.com
Of course these all have some expenses associated with them.