Lift keel design of 323, 31, and 311
- Thread starter prroots
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I'm favoring the 323 since it's a newer model than the 311, but still within my budget. The 31's are priced outside my budget and they also draw a fair bit more water than either the 311's or 323's. I did find this helpful write-up about the 323 keel at:
http://www.beneteau.com/var/benetea...le/gammes/Oceanis/Oceanis_323/I_OC_323_GB.pdf
Can anyone confirm or deny?
http://www.beneteau.com/var/benetea...le/gammes/Oceanis/Oceanis_323/I_OC_323_GB.pdf
Keels are cast iron.To improve their durability, the keels are given an anti-corrosion treatment and improved finish in the factory before assembly, using epoxy based coatings and paint. The keel is fastened to the boat by a system of screws and stainless steel backing plate and bonding.
I'm still looking for a good write-up on how the lifting mechanism works (eg, is a cable involved) and what happens if you go hard aground to the mechanism. At this point, it seems that it's a solid connection (ie, no cables). I read somewhere that if you go hard aground the mechanism lifts up inside boat and can be reset. Wish I could review that again
Can anyone confirm or deny?
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There is no cable shown in the diagrams or mentioned in the maintenance instructions. You might be able to contact and ask the fellow Michael James who wrote that article on the lifting keel maintenance here http://www.murrayyachtsales.com/lifting-keel-maintenance/I'm still looking for a good write-up on how the lifting mechanism works (eg, is a cable involved) and what happens if you go hard aground to the mechanism. At this point, it seems that it's a solid connection (ie, no cables). I read somewhere that if you go hard aground the mechanism lifts up inside boat and can be reset. Wish I could review that again
See "Ask a question" and "General contact information" on that website.
I can't say for certain, but from the diagram it looks to me like the top of that lifting rod may be free to kick up if the board were to encounter a submerged object.
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Thanks. I have been in contact with Michael James and this is my question and his reply:
So are you saying that when you go aground the lifting mechanism lifts up? In a sense it's forgiving? And when you're back in deep water can you just reset it to its proper position? Is there a write-up somewhere describing this.
Correct, the board will push the lifting mechanism up in the air. The system will lower back place when the board is no longer on the bottom or you crank it up, unless you hit the bottom hard enough to bend the rod. Unfortunately, I do not have it in writing but just personal experience.
Correct, the board will push the lifting mechanism up in the air. The system will lower back place when the board is no longer on the bottom or you crank it up, unless you hit the bottom hard enough to bend the rod. Unfortunately, I do not have it in writing but just personal experience.
I understand the headroom concern, I'm 6'7", and just learned to live with it. It's still better than a lot of boats.
I was concerned about the shrouds being outboard too, but the way the rig is set up, the boat seems to be more dependent on the main for drive than older designs were. Its not a racing boat, Not a big deal. In light air I use a gennaker anyway.
850 hours on a diesel, provided its been properly maintained is not a lot. Usage depends on distance one has to motor to and from a mooring, and the amount of cruising under power.
I am at the opposite extreme. I basically day sail and only motor a short distance to open water. Subsequently, my engine has less than 300 hours over ten seasons.
I was concerned about the shrouds being outboard too, but the way the rig is set up, the boat seems to be more dependent on the main for drive than older designs were. Its not a racing boat, Not a big deal. In light air I use a gennaker anyway.
850 hours on a diesel, provided its been properly maintained is not a lot. Usage depends on distance one has to motor to and from a mooring, and the amount of cruising under power.
I am at the opposite extreme. I basically day sail and only motor a short distance to open water. Subsequently, my engine has less than 300 hours over ten seasons.
Doug, that's a neat idea ! In Season, about everyother wkkened I get different crew from the sailing club. Some have never been on a sailboat (and some should NEVER be on one). I let one crew steer into the wind by telling them to look up at the main to keep it straight back so it goes up the lazy jacks- which are still drawn in tight.
Got to see my first Beneteau 31. It was on a lift so I even got to see the keel. Couldn't see the centerboard since the keel was sitting on a solid pad. I'm assuming that this is what the 311 and 323 keel looks like. There were a few spots of rust showing through the bottom paint which tends to confirm that it's made from cast iron. One observation was that the screw mechanism was misaligned with hole in salon table. I wonder if this becomes an issue when going aground ie, preventing it from lifting up or damaging the table. Wonder how this gets corrected? The broker said that while on lift, the screw could be completely removed and lubricated. That sounds correct?
Are you sure? The screw will be tilted slightly backwards, the degree will vary based on keel position. It should be centered left-to-right however.
Thanks. The socket for the winch handle was centered left to right but pushed all the way forward. Assuming that everything hidden from view has an equal or smaller diameter as compared to the socket, it should raise without damage to the table
Definitely no wire in the mechanism, and as Michael said, the sacrificial element is the lift mechanism itself - hit hard enough and it will break/bend. Good news is that your keel and the attachment points don't take as much stress.
For maintenance you grease the screw 1X/Yr. You can do this on the hard, or just tie a line all the way around the hull and attempt to let the keel down. The screw will come up instead, allowing you to apply grease.
One thing I wanted to add; don't trust the numbers on the depth. While the mechanisms are all the same or similar, if its that important to you, make sure your surveyor measures the actual depth of the wing when the keel is up. My boat (2005) was one of the last 311s made and used quite a bit of 323 parts in its construction. The depth is 2'10" with keel up, which I believe was the stated depth on the 323.
For maintenance you grease the screw 1X/Yr. You can do this on the hard, or just tie a line all the way around the hull and attempt to let the keel down. The screw will come up instead, allowing you to apply grease.
One thing I wanted to add; don't trust the numbers on the depth. While the mechanisms are all the same or similar, if its that important to you, make sure your surveyor measures the actual depth of the wing when the keel is up. My boat (2005) was one of the last 311s made and used quite a bit of 323 parts in its construction. The depth is 2'10" with keel up, which I believe was the stated depth on the 323.
Thanks. Can you elaborate on the part about "tie a line"? Do you mean to lift it up rather than let it down? Can you grease the mechanism by intentionally going aground?
I just take a jib sheet, push it under the boat, pull it up on the other side, so that it keeps the keel from going down when unscrewing, and tie it over the cabin roof. Gives me the chance to grease it yearly, though i don't really drop the keel very much - it sails great with just the wing.
Yes, many people do exactly what you said, ground the boat and then lower the keel when the tide goes down - works fine, but be careful around mud when grounding.
Yes, many people do exactly what you said, ground the boat and then lower the keel when the tide goes down - works fine, but be careful around mud when grounding.
Thanks for clarifying that. Sounds like a couple of ways to do it. Glad you don't have to do it on the hard in a sling.
As an aside, I'm still debating between the 323 and 31. The 31 is more expensive, but a whole lot newer (ie, 2012 vs 2006). I like the 323 being shallower draft with more headroom, but I also like new!
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