I would like to replace my anchor light and steaming light with a LED bulb. Do I need to change the wiring?
LED bulbs.
- Thread starter Cat36Amoore
- Start date
Be aware that LED bulbs have definitive +/- voltages and so will only fit in existing fixtures one way. Put them in backwards and they don't work.
Have fun
Have fun
Wal-Mart has a large LED light section in auto parts. I took all my bulbs out boat took to Wal-Mart and matched up 5 different types then went west marine And found other one. Found it slightly cheaper at battery+ bulbs store too
With LED is all about quality of light. When replacing my cabin lights I bought a few different brands until I found the perfect one. And if you are using them as navigation replacements be very careful to get the correct bulb that is specific for use / visibility rated.
Greg
Greg
Which fixture did you buy or did you just replace the bulbs? I bought a new LED fixture from forespar that I plan on installing....... when I just changed the bulb for the deck it was like you said...... very insufficient. However I understand the fixtures are designed differently.
Greg
Greg
If you are replacing lights with LEDs be aware of this notice from the USCG:
https://www.dco.uscg.mil/Portals/9/...INV/Alerts/1318.pdf?ver=2018-08-16-091109-630
Cheap LED lights are often not the worth the money and cause radio interference. Stick with a trusted supplier like www.MarineBeam.com. It will cost a little extra up front but you will be getting a good light. MarineBeam.com also has good information on LEDs in general.
https://www.dco.uscg.mil/Portals/9/...INV/Alerts/1318.pdf?ver=2018-08-16-091109-630
Cheap LED lights are often not the worth the money and cause radio interference. Stick with a trusted supplier like www.MarineBeam.com. It will cost a little extra up front but you will be getting a good light. MarineBeam.com also has good information on LEDs in general.
I don't recall the name of the light maker...possibly Forespar... anyway I had reasoned that the low power consumption anchor light was the way to go.. and by extension also reasoned to save more power and gain bulb longevity I'd change out the steaming/ deck light... WRONG... fore deck light very poor..and, if I'm steaming I'm making power via the alternator so no battery drag down.. I'm back to a total halogen steaming/deck light.
There are two issues with changing to LED bulbs; (1) RF interference where some LEDs will create RF noise interfering with VHF communications. (2) on a sailboat it is important that the lights are capable of proper display while heeling. Many LED bulbs are design to display assuming level such as a power boat. Just things to be aware of search the web, the Coast Guard has published information on this.
Several things to know.
You need to use colored LED bulbs for red and green or the efficiency is not good.
Most LED bulbs last longer in a sealed fixture and work better/last longer when they have a heat sink, so it is actually cheaper in the long run to buy the sealed fixtures w/heat sink than just replace the bulbs.
I began by just changing the bulbs in the Aqua Signal fixtures, but not being completely 100% sealed and waterproof or having a heat sink, I had to replace bulbs @ about $30.00 each. I have yet to have to replace a sealed fixture LED nav light in some years.
Personally, I can't see any reason to replace the steaming light w/LED as the engine is running and hopefully charging when it is on unless you just want a new fixture.
However, by far the biggest difference is with the spreader lights. We had the tractor bulb style spreader lights and they didn't give very much light, nor did they last more than a few hours. Of course, the ate juice like there's no tomorrow whereas the direct replacement LED bulbs use almost none and give us nearly daylight brightness on deck at night.
You need to use colored LED bulbs for red and green or the efficiency is not good.
Most LED bulbs last longer in a sealed fixture and work better/last longer when they have a heat sink, so it is actually cheaper in the long run to buy the sealed fixtures w/heat sink than just replace the bulbs.
I began by just changing the bulbs in the Aqua Signal fixtures, but not being completely 100% sealed and waterproof or having a heat sink, I had to replace bulbs @ about $30.00 each. I have yet to have to replace a sealed fixture LED nav light in some years.
Personally, I can't see any reason to replace the steaming light w/LED as the engine is running and hopefully charging when it is on unless you just want a new fixture.
However, by far the biggest difference is with the spreader lights. We had the tractor bulb style spreader lights and they didn't give very much light, nor did they last more than a few hours. Of course, the ate juice like there's no tomorrow whereas the direct replacement LED bulbs use almost none and give us nearly daylight brightness on deck at night.
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Replaced all our incandescent bulbs with LED from this company several years ago. Plug and play with no wiring changes necessary. Very pleased with their performance. They should have what you need here. https://store.marinebeam.com/led-replacement-bulbs/
Ditto!
One of the other advantages of going with a quality LED bulb is they are not polarity dependent. You can't wire them backwards.
I also agree about the sealed LED fixture. Will last a long time. If you simply replace the bulb in an unsealed fixture you can have the same problems with corroded contacts and wires.
It is best to replace the whole fixture with one with LED lights, just replacing the bulbs is a half fix as you will still be at the mercy of the bulb socket and its contact points, also the gaskets get fouled and lenses deteriorate. If you do not want to have to go up the mast any time soon replace the whole fixture.
- especially for MarineBeam's sealed units. They're well made, USCG certified, IP-67 sealed, engineered to dissipate heat from the LED unit. And since the entire unit is sealed, they have no spring or screw contacts to corrode. The pigtails are long enough to run into the boat or mast and keep the connections protected.My only regret: I bought the anchor light with a photocell sensor; it seemed like a really sensible idea. But on my trailerable boat (where we connect / disconnect the wiring during rigging), I found that I'd like to be able to test the light before launching (when it would easy to troubleshoot). And that's generally during daylight, so I ended up taping over the photocell. That won't be an issue for @Cat27rem with a C-28MkII, but something for other trailer-sailors to consider.
