LED bulbs

Gunni · Apr 28, 2015

sailnoproblem said:
My standard bulb was a 1142. I just went on amazon and searched for LED replacement for
1142 bayonet style bulb.
They have several, from single to ten packs.

So while an 1142 unregulated LED may work well on your boat trailer tail-light, it is a poor option for a battery-driven installation like a boat. Doesn't have the voltage range capacity.

Gunni · Apr 28, 2015

sailnoproblem said:
Hello Gunni, The part numbers on the LED's that I purchased on amazon are the exact part numbers that are listed on the conversion chart. How can I tell the difference? I realize they were cheap but they have the exact part numbers.
Can you help me out?

On a boat you want constant current regulation of your LED lamps because your voltage varies as your 12VDC system voltage changes. If you don't have a constant current chipset controlled LED, your lamps will heat up when your alternator, or shore charger kicks on and voltage goes up. And when your voltage drops off you will get a dimmer lamp. More here. There is also a problem with RFI on your radios with LEDs not designed for boat use.

Brian D · Apr 28, 2015

arf145 said:
The thing about LEDs is that they aren't really "bulbs"--they're one or more LEDs and some electronics. You want good LEDs and you definitely want good electronics and good packaging so the voltage to the LEDs is controlled nicely, things don't overheat, and so you aren't emitting a bunch of radio interference. It's unlikely you've got the good electronics at that price.

arf145, you are correct. However, some of these LED lights come in a seal package, like a bulb. But I guess it is normal convention to call them bulbs anyway. Just like adding a second wireless phone is referred to as a "second line" where there is no "line" per se.

arf145 · Apr 28, 2015

Brian D said:
arf145, you are correct. However, some of these LED lights come in a seal package, like a bulb. But I guess it is normal convention to call them bulbs anyway. Just like adding a second wireless phone is referred to as a "second line" where there is no "line" per se.

Absolutely. I wasn't really nitpicking semantics there so much as trying to point out that they aren't the simple commodities that old light bulbs were.

Ward H · Apr 29, 2015

I played with LEDs in my G Scale trains. First was to just put a resister in line with the LED. That worked but with varying voltage the light intensity would vary. When I reversed polarity the LED, which should not have been on, would glow dimly. Built constant polarity and voltage boards. Then trying to find the right color led. Blue White did not seem right on an old steam loco.

Then if you read about light waves and how a blue white LED seen through a red lens gives a purplish color it gets a bit complicated. Most of the auto LEDs seem to be bright white, not the warm white we might want in our cabins.

I thought about the automotive LED replacements for my 1157 bulbs but I agree with arf145. LEDs are just not as simple as filament bulbs.

Too many choices, too little time and money.

Or as Stu would say "Your boat, Your choice!"

Bill Roosa · Apr 29, 2015

On the topic of RFI and LEDs. You will not get RFI from a straight LED (and voltage dropping resistor) . You get the RFI from bulbs that have some sort of voltage regulation. If you are getting RFI from your bulbs it is pretty easy to add a cap and or coil to the circuit to quiet it down.